El Faro – El Puerto de Santa María

photo courtesy of El Faro website

The El Faro group (which actually consists of 4 restaurants and a catering company), used to be best known (by me) for the El Faro restaurant in Cádiz, where I’ve stopped for tapas a few times, but there is also an El Faro fine dining restaurant and tapas bar in El Puerto de Santa María which I’ve been wanting to try for ages, and recently I had the opportunity to visit twice.

Restaurante El Faro in El Puerto has been run by chef Fernando Córdoba and his wife Ana Isabel Puerto for over 30 years now. It’s located just outside the old city, not far from the bullring, in an old manor house surrounded by gardens, including the restaurant’s own kitchen herb and seasonal vegetable garden,, and the general appearance and atmosphere is “modern in a traditional style”. There are several dining areas of various sizes, some for private functions, but our interest was in the substantial area in front of the huge wooden bar, which is where tapas are available.

The cuisine itself is generally typical of the region, with lots of fresh fish and seafood, with seasonal variations, especially for fresh vegetables, and the quality is excellent. Very hard to pick a favourite, though on our first visit Chef Fernando let us order the taquitos de urta frito, served in the body of the fish itself, which is usually only available in the dining room. Fabulous presentation and flavour, but I honestly can’t think of a dish we’ve tried here that wasn’t exceptional. Tempura baby leeks from their garden? Almadraba red tuna tartare? Their exquisite tortillitas de camarones? I think it’s safe to say you can’t go wrong here.

We were also fortunate enough to have Fernando show us around the restaurant’s substantial bodega (150 sq metres, with over 400 wines), and talk to us about the joys – and a few pitfalls – of the restaurant business. His genuine enthusiasm and love of food and wine shows itself in every aspect of the experience. I love that he is passionate about sherry wines, and also about working with the abundance of local products that he has available. Fernando is a modest chef, preferring to be behind the scenes, but his food deserves centre stage. El Faro is a “must do” if you are ever lucky enough to be in El Puerto de Santa María.

Avenida de Fuentebravía Km 0.5
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 870 952
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

tortillita de camarones

zamburiñas with lemon and capers

ruby red almadraba tuna tartare

tempura leeks from their own garden

grilled almadraba tuna with vegetables, quinoa and citrus sauce

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Bodeguita El Adobo

This was a delightful “new discovery” during my last visit to Cádiz, thanks to a recommendation by Twitter pal Antonio Colsa @elquillodecadiz. We stopped in on our last evening and already I can’t wait to go back. This is exactly the type of no-nonsense tapas bar I love. Run by Paco Abeijón “Paquito el Adobo”, who took over the spot in 2014 (originally founded in 1987 when it was converted from an abacería to a bar), the menu features market fresh fish and seafood done to perfection, either simply grilled or expertly deep-fried.

The bar is tiny, but there is a sidewalk terrace on the pedestrianised street. We squeezed in at the end of the bar and started with one of the house specialities – boquerones abiertos al limón. They were indeed some of the best I’ve ever tried. The only small “draw-back” is that most dishes are raciones (or media raciones) and so we were already pretty stuffed on fritos when Paquito came out and said we HAD to try the moreno, a local fish, prepared en adobo. We were also told that leaving without trying the tomatoes with melva was almost unheard of, but unfortunately we were given this vital information too late, when we could not eat one more bite. But this will be my first stop next time I am in Cádiz, and those tomatoes will be the first thing I order. Lovely personal and friendly service and some nice local wines too.

Rosario 4
Cádiz
Tel 636 814 675
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

tortillita de camarones

squid ink croquetas

moreno en adobo

boquerones al limón

acedias (small sole)

owner Paquito with daughter Carmen and Alejandro

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Los Diamantes II

There are now five Los Diamantes in Granada, although only three are in the city centre where you’re likely to find them. This one is probably the most similar to the original in Calle Navas – a fun buzzy place that’s always busy, both the bar area in front, and the dining room at the back. Same emphasis on fried fish and seafood, all of it of good quality, and efficient friendly service. Great value too.

Rosario 12
Granada
Tel 619 787 828
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

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Foreño

Foreño opened its doors in Sanlúcar’s Plaza del Cabildo about a year ago, and when I was in town for Manzanilla Day, I took the opportunity to pay a visit. It’s the latest addition to the Tribeca group (Tribeca and Cañabota in Sevilla) run by the brothers Eduardo and Jaime Guardiola, and specialises in fish and seafood (the name Foreño is the local name for the wind that blows in from the sea).

There’s a pleasant bar inside, with both low and tall tables, and what I think is the prettiest terrace in Plaza del Cablildo. Efficient and attentive service too.

The menu is mainly big plates, but with some tapas. We had croquettes (choco and jamón), a scorpion fish paté, sea bream, and “postre de yema Calbarro”, the signature egg yolk cream dessert at Tribeca. All delicious.

Plaza del Cabildo 6
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 960 185
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

cabracho (scorpion fish) paté

croquetas: chocos and jamón

a side of garlicky potatoes

sea bream a la plancha

postre de yema Calbarro

pretty terraza!

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Er Pichi de Cái


A taste of Cádiz in Málaga, Er Pichi de Cái certainly delivers the goods. Just off Huelin beach it’s a cosy and comfortable bar with friendly staff and a great seafood menu. Try the authentic tortillitas de camarones, fabulous char-grilled octopus and probably the best tuna in escabeche I have ever had. There is also a good selection of regional wines, including some terrific sherries. It’s a bit of a hike from the city centre, or you can take a bus from the Alameda.

Tomás Echeverría 6
Málaga
Tel 667 89 96 60
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

tortillita de camarones

atún en manteca

char-grilled octopus

atún en escabeche

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Los Mellizos

Updated July 2018

In 1956 Pepe Montes y Loli Montero opened their first fish bar on Malagueta beach, later relocating to Benalmádena with their four sons in 1982. Today the sons run a chain of very successful seafood restaurants along the Costa del Sol, and are also fish wholesalers who cater to almost 100 other restaurants, so it’s safe to say they know their business. The location in central Málaga comprises two buildings across the street from each other – one a traditional bar and restaurant, the other with a more stylish look. We opted to sit at the bar in the trad bar, in front of the enticing displays of fresh fish and seafood.

The fritos are a house speciality, but they also offer a variety of grilled, baked or stewed options, as well as excellent quality charcuterie. We also loved the sizzling gambas pil pil, and white bean seafood stew.

By the way, the business group takes its name from the brothers Florencio and Ramón, although they are not identical twins (mellizos), but fraternal twins (gemelos). Recommended!

Sancha de Lara 7
Málaga
Tel 952 22 03 15
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

salpicón de gambas

baby gems with peeled and marinated tomatoes

breaded rosada with alioli

chocos fritos (cuttlefish)

“tierra y mar” breaded veggies with chanquetes and prawns

boquerones al limón

white beans and seafood stew

sizzling prawn pilpil

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Updated July 2018

Mini Bar

Mini Bar is one of those little hole in the wall tapas bars with a limited menu (basically fried fish) that nevertheless succeeds in exuding atmosphere and being very popular. It has a convenient location between the market and the Plaza Candelaría, so it’s great for a snack and beer stop between other activities. Owner Paco has been running the show for over thirty years and makes you feel at home as soon as you walk in the door.

Doctor Dacarrete 3
Cádiz
Tel  856 174 303
€ €

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Food 8 | Wine 6 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

affable owner Paco

fritura variada

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El Bichero

el bichero

El Bichero (The Boathook) is a relatively new restaurant just off Jerez’s main Arenal Plaza, opened in 2011 by Fermín Anguita. There’s a pleasant outside terrace, a restaurant upstairs and – my favourite spot – a small bar downstairs for tapas (though you can also order from the restaurant menu at the bar). Specialities are local fish and seafood, but there are some good meat options too. Good wine list, nice staff… a must-visit whenever I’m in Jerez.

Pescadería Vieja 2
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 342 986
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

el bichero (13)

el bichero gambas saladsalpicón de gambas

el bichero smoked sardineCantabrian achovies

IMG_5015smoked salmon

IMG_4995blue tuna tataky with soy sauce

el bichero sanlucar prawnsgrilled prawns

el bichero calamar arroxstewed squid with rice

el bichero chipichipirón and chips

el bichero mollejasgrilled sweetbreads and chips

el bichero chocos calamarefried calamari & chocos

el bichero cazon adobocazón (dogfish) in adobo

el bichero arroz marineroarroz marinero

el bichero Maitre Henry, owner Fermín and VIP cliente Narcisomaitre Henry, owner Fermín and VIP cliente Narciso

el bichero fish displayfish display

el bichero (14)

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Los Diamantes

Updated August 2018
los diamantes

Los Diamantes is one of Granada’s best known and popular bars, and rightly so. It’s one of those ultra-typical fried fish and seafood bars with a very basic style, but the quality of the food is excellent, and the atmosphere is buzzy and friendly. It’s also one of the places I like best in Granada for the “free” tapa. If you go with 3-4 friends you probably won’t need to order much beyond the complimentary dishes, which are very generous.

This original Los Diamantes in Calle Navas is still my favourite (there are now five locations, including a very similar one just up the street in Calle Rosario). But it can get very crowded, so best to arrive early if you want a seat or a prime place at the bar, otherwise you’ll probably end up in the street outside trying to hold your beer in one hand and eat with the other. Try balancing your plate on top of your glass to recreate the original meaning of the word tapas!

Navas 26
Granada
Tel 958 222 257
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

los diamantes tables

los diamantes coquinasgarlicky coquinas (small wedge clams)

los diamantes breadhot buns!

los diamantes arrozseafood rice

boquerones

los diamantes salmoretesfried salmonetes (small red mullet)

los diamantes gambasbreaded prawns

los diamantes champigarlicky grilled mushrooms

los diamantes adobocazón in adobo

los diamantes mixtofritos variados

los diamantes bar

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Updated August 2018