Bodeguita El Adobo

This was a delightful “new discovery” during my last visit to Cádiz, thanks to a recommendation by Twitter pal Antonio Colsa @elquillodecadiz. We stopped in on our last evening and already I can’t wait to go back. This is exactly the type of no-nonsense tapas bar I love. Run by Paco Abeijón “Paquito el Adobo”, who took over the spot in 2014 (originally founded in 1987 when it was converted from an abacería to a bar), the menu features market fresh fish and seafood done to perfection, either simply grilled or expertly deep-fried.

The bar is tiny, but there is a sidewalk terrace on the pedestrianised street. We squeezed in at the end of the bar and started with one of the house specialities – boquerones abiertos al limón. They were indeed some of the best I’ve ever tried. The only small “draw-back” is that most dishes are raciones (or media raciones) and so we were already pretty stuffed on fritos when Paquito came out and said we HAD to try the moreno, a local fish, prepared en adobo. We were also told that leaving without trying the tomatoes with melva was almost unheard of, but unfortunately we were given this vital information too late, when we could not eat one more bite. But this will be my first stop next time I am in Cádiz, and those tomatoes will be the first thing I order. Lovely personal and friendly service and some nice local wines too.

Rosario 4
Cádiz
Tel 636 814 675
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

tortillita de camarones

squid ink croquetas

moreno en adobo

boquerones al limón

acedias (small sole)

owner Paquito with daughter Carmen and Alejandro

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Taberna de Jam

The Taberna de Jam, completely renovated earlier this year, occupies a very pleasant spot in a square at the foot of the Realejo. Spacious inside, with a bar area on one side, a substantial dining area on the other, forming a U-shape, and a pleasant terrace in the Plaza. Specializing in grilled meats, there is also a selection of Arturo Sánchez jamón Ibérico in a range of qualities. For about 26€ you can do a tasting of them all.

Although the waiter was friendly and enthusiastic, overall the food and service (considering it wasn’t busy) was only average. Also open for breakfast, when I’m sure a toast and jamón with coffee in the square would make a nice start to the day.

Plaza de los Campos 1
Granada
Tel 958 225 778
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

chicken with quinoa (complimenary)

big square croqueta filled with goronzola and parmesan

mini pork burgers (complimentary)

stewed pork belly (complimentary)

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Los Diamantes II

There are now five Los Diamantes in Granada, although only three are in the city centre where you’re likely to find them. This one is probably the most similar to the original in Calle Navas – a fun buzzy place that’s always busy, both the bar area in front, and the dining room at the back. Same emphasis on fried fish and seafood, all of it of good quality, and efficient friendly service. Great value too.

Rosario 12
Granada
Tel 619 787 828
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

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A Mar

Restaurante A Mar was opened in 2017 by chef Julián Olivares (also owner of Albores), and specialises in traditional fish, rice and meat dishes, with a limited tapas menu. It’s quite spacious, with the typical division into a bar area, a dining room, and a small terrace on the pedestrian street outside. The decor includes a preserved section of the old wall, and features “hanging gardens”, and display cases for market fresh fish and big slabs of meat destined for the grill (apologies for absence of interior photos). The dishes were tried were quite good, though our monkfish carpaccio came still partially frozen (we were told it was supposed to be that way). The grilled octopus and fried squid were better. There’s a wide range of local wines, especially sherries.

Latorre 8
Tel 956 322 915
€ € € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

ensaladilla de gambas

monkfish carpaccio

calamares fritos

grilled octopus with potato parmentier

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La Moderna

La Moderna is more than just a bar, it’s a Jerez institution. Though the name is a bit of a misnomer as it’s a very typical, traditional style bar, full of bullfighting posters, and simple furnishings. It was founded some 80 years ago by the grandfather of current owners Atilano, Alfonso and Fernando Pacheco, and apparently little has changed in the intervening years, from the colour of the facade, to the bar and the old city wall, which is still extant in the interior of the bar.

Open from early in the morning for breakfast (a must try – the tostada con tomate, in this case a garlicky salmorejo-style topping) the bar attracts a varied local clientele, one of the things I love most about such places. A typical tapas menu of stews and fritos from around midday, make it a great refuelling stop.

Calle Larga 67
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 321 379
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

breakfast! tostada con tomate

papas aliña

marinated pork liver with onions

ensaladilla with melva

tortillitas de bacalao

lagrimitas de pollo

pork meatballs in tomato sauce

cazón en adobo

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Bocarambo

I had no idea this place even existed until some friends from Jerez took us here for lunch during the last Vinoble event. I was definitely impressed. The bar was opened some five years ago, with the conversion of a ground floor flat in a building owned by the family, and everything from the rustic modern decor, with a bar on one side, a little terrace outside, and the Andaluz patio dining room where we ate, to the service, encouraged a relaxed atmosphere for enjoying our meal. We also got a chance to chat with owner Manuel García Tubío as he made his way from table to table, making sure everyone was happy.

The menu is typical Andaluz – Jerezano, with lots of seafood, rice specialities, grilled meats, and an excellent tomato salad. Our friends insisted that we HAD to try the mushrooms with jamón, and well, so do you. I’d also say that the marinated pork liver with cilantro is a must-have. There’s also a good range of sherries (as you’d expect). Definitely recommended if you’re coming to Jerez.

Beato Juan Grande 9
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 646 966 569
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

dressed baby gem with anchovies

tomato salad with melva

spinach croquetas

marinated Ibérico pork liver with cilantro and onion

mushrooms with jamón

grilled secreto Ibérico

owner Manuel García Tubío

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La Deriva

La Deriva has been on my radar since it opened in 2014 but as it’s a restaurant with just a few tapas options, it’s not great for solo dining. But on a  recent visit to Málaga I finally arranged to meet friends there for a meal. There are two dining areas inside and the décor is modern with attractive ceiling lighting and exposed brick walls. There is also a sidewalk terrace out on the busy street (never a favourite, sitting out in traffic).

The menu is interesting – a combination of traditional and innovative dishes that we found to be a bit hit and miss. The “tempura” prawns came covered a dense chewy batter, while the tempura veggies were light, crispy and delicious. The tuna mormo was also very good, and we finished off with an excellent cheese plate. Overall a pleasant experience, though I wouldn’t say it’s particularly good value for money. Service was okay.

Alameda Colón 7
Málaga
Tel 638 08 65 29
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

battered prawns with habanero alioli

tempura veggies with soy sauce

tuna mormo with sautéed spinach and pine nuts

cheeses

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Soca


Opened in August 2016, Soca Restaurant, run by Joanna Coghlan, offers both Mediterranean cuisine and sushi. The attractive corner location has an L-shaped interior with seating either in front of the bar or along its other side, with a small sidewalk terrace. I just stopped in for a light snack and both the tapas I tried were excellent. I’d like to go back again with friends and try some of the larger plates for sharing. It’s another bright spot on previously down-at-heel Carretería street, which lately has been picking itself up with the arrival of new hipsterish bars, restaurants and shops.

Carretería 54
Málaga
Tel 951 53 26 34
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

salmon nigiri with lime and teriyaki

Ibérico pork rib arepa with avocado cream and romesco sauce

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Er Pichi de Cái


A taste of Cádiz in Málaga, Er Pichi de Cái certainly delivers the goods. Just off Huelin beach it’s a cosy and comfortable bar with friendly staff and a great seafood menu. Try the authentic tortillitas de camarones, fabulous char-grilled octopus and probably the best tuna in escabeche I have ever had. There is also a good selection of regional wines, including some terrific sherries. It’s a bit of a hike from the city centre, or you can take a bus from the Alameda.

Tomás Echeverría 6
Málaga
Tel 667 89 96 60
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

tortillita de camarones

atún en manteca

char-grilled octopus

atún en escabeche

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Hierbabuena

My “home away from home” in Málaga is in the same barrio as Hierbabuena and so I’ve passed by many times over several visits, but it was only recently that I decided to try it out. It’s a real neighbourhood bar with an attractive interior and spacious terrace in the square, which is a great place to be on a summer evening. And it turns out that the food is quite nice too. Also … all day kitchen!

There’s a small selection of tapas on the menu, but it’s mostly medium-sized plates for sharing. Love the gambas al ajillo and the fritos, as well as their simple fresh tomato salad. Nice cold Victoria beer, decent wines, good service and fun casual vibe.

Calle Puerta Nueva 1
Málaga
Tel 692 830 267
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

tomato salad

pork skewer “pincho moruno”

lagrimitas de pollo with alioli

lamb skewer

breaded rosado

sizzling gambas al ajillo

rice of the day

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