Sherry Sipping in Sevilla

sherry sipsSeana Rizzutto Yee AKA @SherrySips

Some of you may know about my sherry epiphany a couple of years ago, which resulted in the creation of my Introduction to Sherry tours (chosen by The Telegraph this year as one of their top ten food and drink holidays in Spain). Sherry has become quite important in my life and I am always eager to learn more and share that knowledge.

So when I found out that Seana Yee was coming to Jerez I got in touch via Twitter in case she had time to come to Sevilla. Seana lives in Portland and was here on a sherry odyssey lasting the better part of two weeks, visiting bodegas in Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María (sound familiar?). I think because it was becoming apparent that we knew so many of the same people, and also that the planets and stars aligned just right, Seana found she had a free day and took the train to Sevilla to spend last Sunday with me. And what a day it was!

We met late morning and did a quick tour of the Metropol Parasol (which hadn’t existed when Seana was last here) before setting off in search of churros. Instead we ended up having tostadas and cava (don’t ask) at La Azotea in Barrio Santa Cruz, which proved to be a good start to what was to be my first ever Tapeo Extremo con Jerez.

sherry sipping collage[click on image to enlarge, but not if you’re hungry… or thirsty]

First up was Las Teresas for some jamón, queso and caña de lomo, paired with wonderful Botaina amontillado from Bodegas Lustau. Seana had a bodega tour (her last) booked with Lustau the following day so this proved to be a nice preview. Then we stopped in at Casa Morales for some fabulous lomo en manteca – we told barman Diego we were looking for a special manzanilla and he pulled out a bottle of manzanilla pasada from Bodegas Sacristia AB… perfection. Then we headed over to visit my “family” at Bodeguita Romero. Of course Seana had to try their famous pringá montadito, along with Pedro Romero’s equally famous papas aliñás… with these we had a nice Alfonso oloroso. Moving on to my favourite braised pork cheeks in town, Alejandro Romero recommended Palo Cortado Leanor from Bodegas Gonzalez Byass. We were pretty much stuffed at this point but I wanted to take Seana to the home of the “crackburger” La Brunilda, which was just around the corner. We were too full for a burger so opted for some lovely payoyo cheese from Cádiz instead, which was paired with La Bota de Manzanilla 55 from Equipos Navazos.

Last but not least I took Seana to meet the lovely Silvia Flores @vinosyflores who works as sommelier and event organizer for the Corte Inglés Gourmet Experience. There we enjoyed a perfectly chilled glass of Tío Pepe en Rama 2015 (which I’d had the pleasure of trying at the annual presentation earlier that week) and then Silvia surprised us with a glass of Apostoles VORS Palo Cortado and a plate of exquisite Michel Cluizel chocolates. Oh my!

palo cortado

We headed back to my place after this for a short rest before going to an early flamenco show at the Flamenco Museum. Then we said our “hasta luegos” as Seana left to catch the train back to Jerez and I headed off on a tapas tour. Honestly, in just one short (and seriously sherry-filled) day I felt like I’d made a friend for life. I’m also thinking of adding a Gourmet Sherry Tour to my repertoire after this, to complement the “beginners course”. We shall see.

Thanks so much for coming to visit me, Seana. Our love of sherry and cats shall endure! xx

You can also follow me and Seana on Instagram (go on, you know you want to)…
SherrySips  |  azahar

Sherry Tasting in El Puerto de Santa María

el puertoThe thing I like best about all my bodega visits is that everyone involved is so passionate about sherry, a passion I have come to share over the last couple of years, and that even very important people in the business are prepared to give their time to anyone who shares their interest. After recent trips to visit bodegas in Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, I knew I had to revisit one of my favourites in El Puerto de Santa María and get to know at least one other in order to round out this year’s Sherry Education. All of which helps me to give better and better Introduction to Sherry Tours in Sevilla.

Bodegas Caballero
caballeroCaballero is now one of the big players in the world of wine, with bodegas all over Spain (and they’re owners of Lustau of Jerez, too), but our visit was to the modestly-sized San Francisco bodega in El Puerto de Santa Maria, the production centre for their Fino Pavón sherry. As with a lot of bodegas, a rather warehouse-like exterior conceals not only the “cathedrals”, but some pleasant open spaces and gardens, in this case including a Drago Milenario, which seems to be something of a city symbol.

Our guide was Verónica, who showed us around the vast bodega while explaining the methods of ageing sherry and the solera/crianza system. We also saw the sacristy, the special room in every bodega that houses the unusual and high value products. Afterwards we moved on to the Castillo San Marcos a few minutes walk away, for a tasting of some Cabellero and Lustau sherries, along with some lovely snacks of jamón Ibérico, olives, cheese, and one of the best tortilla de patatas I’ve ever tasted. The castle, also owned by Caballero, was an impressive and perfect backdrop – a 13th century fortified church built over a former mosque, complete with Roman walls under the basement.

Bodega visits are by appointment only.

Bodegas Caballero

Calle San Francisco, 32
Tel: +34 956 851 751

Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosia
gutierrez colosiaGutiérrez Colosia is a family run bodega down on the riverside in El Puerto de Santa Maráa, producing a full range of sherries including a top of the range Palo Cortado. The original bodega on this prime site near the mouth of the Guadalete River, where the moist winds off the sea help to maintain the best environment for making sherry, was built in 1838. It was bought by the great grandfather of the current generation of the Gutiérrez family around the beginning of the 20th century.

This was actually my second visit, but the atmosphere (in both senses) of these sherry cathedrals, with their yeasty smell, coolness and dimness, is always both novelty and homecoming. Our guide Carmen (daughter of bodega co-owner Carmen Gutiérrez) took us through the history of winemaking in the region, and of the bodega, with the natural passion of someone born to sherry making.

After the bodega tour we went to the tasting room to sample six fabulous sherries accompanied by snacks, and we were joined by Carmen “madre” who added a few personal anecdotes and answered more of our questions. This is a family run bodega in the very real sense that only half a dozen people take care of everything. Very rare these days, and very special.

Bodega visits in both Spanish and English are held every day at 12.15 pm and cost 6€ per person. For larger groups or special requests get in touch with the winery directly.

Bodegas Gutierrez Colosia
Avenida Bajamar, 40
Tel: +34 956 852 852

Copa Jerez 2015 National Finals

copa jerez spanish finals  (1)Last week I was invited to attend the Spanish finals for the 6th Copa Jerez international food and sherry pairing competition, which will be held in April 2015. I had been at Copa Jerez 2013 and so I was very excited about seeing the finalists in action, preparing and presenting their three-course meals matched with three fabulous sherries. Expectations were high given the stellar reputations of the three participating restaurants: 41º Experience, Atrio and Venta Moncalvillo. The jury of four top Spanish food and wine experts was equally impressive: Beltran Domecq, Paz Ivison, Fernando Córdoba and María Isabel Mijares.

The competition lasted about three hours and we were allowed access to the kitchen as well as the chance to try both the sample dishes and the sherry (though there was more of the latter than the former on hand). Then the judges had the very difficult task of deciding who would respresent Spain in the grand final. Their choice was Atrio (two days later Cáceres was chosen the Spanish Capital of Gastronomy 2015, so if Atrio wins the Copa Jerez it will be quite a  year for the city).

copa jerez spanish finals  (3)Judges and winners!
Chef Alberto Montes & sommelier José López-Montenegro from Atrio.

Afterwards we were invited to Bodegas Tradición for an elegant lunch prepared by the Jerez Professional Catering School (where the competition had taken place). But first we were treated to a tour of the bodega and its private art gallery by Head of Wine Tourism Activities, Daniel Martínez Becerra. Although I had recently been to a wine tasting there, it’s such a unique experience that you can easily go several times and get something new from it, especially as the paintings change from time to time.

copa jerez spanish finals  (2)The lunch was delicious and each course was paired with sherry from the Sherry Regulatory Council and Bodegas Tradición. I was thrilled (and a bit intimidated) to find myself seated next to Regulatory Council president Beltran Domecq. I was also a bit sorry to have to tell him that I wasn’t from *that* Hennessey family, but he didn’t seem to mind, even later when I referred to my brandy as cognac (oops!). As usual with this type of event, it was a great opportunity to see friends and colleagues again, and also to meet new people. And as always when it comes to sherry, everyone connected to it is both passionate and generous. No wine snobbery or secret societies here. Instead there is a genuine desire to share knowledge along with their exquisite product, which I find refreshing.

Vendimia de Jerez 2014

vendimia 2014The Fiesta de la Vendimia (Autumn Festival and Grape Harvest Fair) kicks off today in Jerez de la Frontera with activites for all ages. The programme includes open days and visits to wineries, master tastings, grape stomping, children’s entertainment, concerts, tapas and wine pairing, routes through the vineyards of Jerez, conferences, exhibitions, concerts, competitions … and don’t miss the gastronomy fair in the Alameda Vieja.

vendimia tapasCheck the official programme for more details.
Vendimia 2014 Programme

Sherry Tasting in Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Hot on the heels of my whirlwind visit to sherry bodegas in Jerez I planned a trip to the home of manzanilla, Sanlúcar de Barrameda. I was curious to learn more about the differences between manzanilla and fino first hand, furthering my own sherry education so I could also better inform guests on my Introduction to Sherry tours.
sanlucarManzanilla is basically made in the same way as a fino, using the same grape (palomino fino) and the same methods, resulting in a very pale, dry wine. What makes the main difference in flavour is the very particular micro-climate in Sanlúcar, located on the sea estuary of the Guadalquivir river. Consistently cooler temperatures and higher humidity than in Jerez or El Puerto de Santa María (the other two main towns that make up the Sherry Triangle) contribute to a thicker cover of flor, the natural yeast that protects both fino and manzanilla wines from contact with the air while it ages in oak barrels. The result is a lighter, more delicate, slightly salty flavour. Delicious!

During my two days in Sanlúcar I was invited to visit three very different family-run bodegas and, as in Jerez, I felt honoured and was very grateful for the time given to me by these very passionate people. Here they are in the order I visited them (click on images to enlarge).

Continue reading “Sherry Tasting in Sanlúcar de Barrameda”

Tapeo Extremo™

jeffrey me victorJeffrey, me and Victor in Málaga

I can’t even begin to count the ways that Twitter has changed my life, but this is yet another one. Back in late 2012 my Twitter pal Niamh Shields @eatlikeagirl got in touch with me about joining a new international foodie venture called Chowzter,. At first glance Chowzter didn’t seem like the sort of thing I’d be interested in (though I remember years ago saying the same thing about Twitter!) but I decided to give it a go as it had been recommended by Niamh and there wasn’t a lot of work required to set it up. Thus I became their Sevilla food expert.

Then about ten days ago I got to meet Chowzter founder Jeffrey Merrihue @jeffreymerrihue. He was holidaying in Marbella and came up to Sevilla for the day to do a tapas tour with me, which morphed into a tapeo extremo (a term coined by my friend and travel writer Annie Bennett @anniebennett a few years ago when we went out for tapas – I have no idea why! 😉 ). That day Jeffrey and I broke my personal record by visiting 7 tapas bars in 4 hours.

tapeo extremo sevilla 08-08-14Tapeo Extremo Sevilla 08-08-14 | 7 tapas bars in 4 hours

Chowzter began as an argument between two well-travelled food-obsessed brothers about where to get the “best this-or-that” in every city they visited. Not Michelin star fare (everybody knows where to find that), but fabulous day-to-day local food. Fast feasts. The trick was to find passionate locals who wanted to share their knowledge. Which now includes me. And now also includes Victor Garrido @welovemalaga, who runs the best tapas and walking tours in Málaga. At first Jeffrey asked Victor if he wanted to meet him in Marbella, but then mentioned that he’d never had good food in Málaga (!!!). And when he asked if I wanted to come down for the day too… well, it just had to be another Tapeo Extremo!

tapeo extremo malaga 14-08-14Tapeo Extremo Málaga 14-08-14 | 10 tapas bars in 4 hours

Jeffrey, Victor and I met in front of the Atarazanas Market in the centre of Málaga and what happened next was epic. Of course you can’t “properly” visit every excellent tapas bar in any city in just one afternoon, but the purpose of tapeo extremo (if there needs to be one) is to show someone with huge interest and little time as much as possible. Both tapeos were wonderful, though I think Málaga had the advantage of the bars being closer together, having both Victor and me as guides, and also knowing by that time that Jeffrey was a complete food maniac (had I known this in Sevilla we would have got into more taxis). But I’m sure that Jeffrey will agree that both Victor and I killed it, and we both loved showing someone around who clearly appreciated the best. In fact, Jeffrey’s enthusiasm was so contagious that I’m now helping find “chief Chowzters” for other areas in Spain and Portugal. So watch this space and also @SevillaTapas for future developments. And thanks again for a great couple of days, Jeffrey. Hasta pronto!

The Sanlúcar

the sanlucar

The Sanlúcar: manzanilla sherry, lime juice, olive oil, sugar, egg white, shaken over ice, with hierbabuena & angostura bitters to finish. Pretty much the perfect summer cocktail. And especially perfect when enjoyed at Café Azul on the Bajo de Guia in Sanlúcar de Barrameda at sunset. Cheers!

Sherry Tasting in Jerez de la Frontera

Although I’ve long been a fan of fino and manzanilla, and dabbled a bit in olorosos and amontillados, some of you may remember that just over a year ago I kind of underwent a sherry conversion, which ended up being the inspiration for starting my own Introduction to Sherry tours. I wanted to give others the chance to experience sherry the way I felt it should be enjoyed – poco á poco, together with food and friends. But although my knowledge of sherry was enough for a “beginners” tour, I was keen to learn more. So when I found out that I wasn’t able to get into this September’s Sherry Educator course (though I’ve been promised a place for next year by the Regulatory Council) I was feeling all disappointed. And so of course the obvious thing to do was go to Jerez and start educating myself!

sherry marathonThe whole three day adventure came together in just a few hours. Hotel was booked, train tickets reserved, and four fabulous bodega visits were set up. My friend Peter Tatford @SVQconcierge came along with me as he was also interested in finding out more about Jerez (both the city and the wine).

Other than the regular tourist visit we did at González Byass when we first arrived the rest were all private tours, and I felt both honoured and privileged that the people at these very special wineries made me feel so welcome. It was not only super educational, it also felt like entering a whole other world, and as much as I learned (which was a lot!) the main thing I learned was that I still have a lot more to learn. I asked each person to take me through the sherry making process from the beginning, in their own way, and left myself in their capable hands. Each bodega was unique and everyone I spoke to was incredibly passionate about their work. In fact, it wasn’t like a job for any of them, it was a way of life. Here are the bodegas I went to in the order we visited them (click on the images to see bigger versions)…

Continue reading “Sherry Tasting in Jerez de la Frontera”

A Rare Glimpse…

tapas tourPhotos of yours truly are few and far between online but this was such a lovely “feel good” moment that my friend Peter @SVQconcierge happened to capture at the end of a Sevilla Tapas Tour that I decided not to worry about all my chins showing (that’s me in the middle).

I really do have one of the best jobs in the world. 🙂

Tío Pepe Returns to the Sun

tio pepe sol

Back in May I found out that I’d won one of the limited edition commemorative bottles of Tío Pepe, celebrating the return of the iconic neon sign to Puerta del Sol after a three-year absence. Well, it looked for awhile like I might not ever get it as the delivery company (which shall remain nameless) was not very efficient and failed to leave notices when they didn’t find me at home. Duh. But it finally got sorted out and now I am delighted to have this fabulous bottle (the colourful label goes all around the bottle, showing the entire sign). It’s especially meaningful now after having seen the sign in place when I was in Madrid last week.

tio pepe

tio pepe night