Much ado is (justifiably) made about Córdoba's annual Patio Festival with its colourful flower-festooned patios, posadas and alleyways in full bloom, though I personally prefer to go a week or so after the festival to avoid the crowds. And one of my favourite places in Córdoba to visit any time of year is the Palacio de Viana, Córdoba’s very special Patio Museum. It consists of 12 patios and a garden spread through and around the buildings of the palace, each designed and planted in its own unique style. As well as Moorish and classically influenced patio gardens there are also the gardeners’ patios, the Patio of Los Gatos, an old patio de Vecinos that was incorporated into the palace in the 18th century, and the modern courtyard of the columns.
Although the spring and early summer are the most obvious time to visit (I had visited twice before in summer), I was recently there again in November on a dull cloudy day that threatened - but didn't quite manage - to rain, and I discovered that the patios in winter have a unique charm that doesn't exist in other seasons. Most notably that the many orange trees are full of fruit. There was also an art exhibit of sculptures by Cordobés artist Aurelio Teno with works spread out through the various patios.
Winter is also an ideal time to take the guided tour of the house and its impressive collections of furniture, books, paintings, ceramics and much else besides, accumulated through the centuries by its wealthy owners. It’s a fascinating journey through their lives that complements the gardens outside.
