Original and stylish tapas in the heart of the picturesque Judería barrio in Utrera, about a half hour’s drive from Sevilla. I’ve been wanting to come here for ages and finally got a chance the other day when friends invited me to join them for lunch. We got there early as Besana is a cosy place and doesn’t take bookings, and we found a nice spot in the small dining room off the bar area.

Co-owners Mario Ríos Aguilera and Curro Noriego are constantly recreating Besana with new menus every few months, and there are also a few daily specials. Most of you know by now that I am not a huge fan of “gastrobars”, but Besana has a reputation for both quality and innovation, so I was up for trying anything. In the end I preferred the dishes that most resembled, well, food (surely foamed anything has had its day?) and that weren’t overly clever. Great care is taken with presentation here and dishes such as the perfectly grilled sea bass with asparagus and citrus emulsion and the squid ink croquettes with roasted garlic mayo were as tasty as they were attractive. The glazed sweetbreads with goat cheese and stir-fried setas were also a favourite, but I really should’ve known better than to order the mini-burger. Overall it was a very pleasant lunch with attentive service and some lovely wines by the glass.

Bread Charge: 0.80€

Niño Perdido, 1
Utrera
Tel 955 863 804
Open 13.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
13.00 – 19.00 Sunday
Besana Tapas Website
€ € € €

ajoblanco with almonds and tuna chicharrones

grilled setas ‘au jus’ with Inés Rosales tortas

chicken curry with rice, baked banana and coconut

grilled lubina (sea bass) with asparagus and citrus emulsion

huevos rotos with potato and chistorra foam

lamb kebab with tabouleh and cucumber yoghurt

gorgonzola-filled mini-burger

squid ink croquettes with roasted garlic mayo

glazed sweetbreads with goat cheese and stir-fried setas

“millefeuille” of cochinillo y sliced pears

sacher bizcocho with candied cherries and dark chocolate ice cream

co-owners Mario and Curro