Author Archives: Shawn

El Refectorium Catedral

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Updated July 2016

refectorium catedral

This sister bar of the El Refectorium Malagueta couldn’t be more different in style, but happily it has many of the same dishes from the original menu. El Refectorium Catedral is all chic minimalist elegance – designed by Jean-Claude Schmidt and Rafael Raez Ariza – with a lovely curved wall of windows that lets in lots of natual light. Service is professional and refreshingly unstuffy.

For me a visit to Málaga isn’t complete without at least one stop-in here. You can get the tapas menu at the bar, raciones at the tables. A couple of the many must-try dishes: the super tender slow-chargrilled octopus and the langoustine and jamón brochette. Also make sure to ask about the daily specials. Excellent wines by the glass and I think on par good value for money.

Calle Postigo de los Abades, 4
Málaga
Tel. 952 602 389
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

refectorium cathedral entrance

refectorium catedral boqueronesboquerones al vinagre – lots of them!

IMG_4331cheese!

IMG_4326caña de lomo

 refectorium catedral bolosbolos (a type of clam served live with a squeeze of lemon)

IMG_4346salmorejo with jamón and egg

refectorium catedral conchas finasconchas finas

refectorium catedral ensaladillaensaladilla with tuna

refectorium habasbroad beans and jamón with fried egg

IMG_4342white asparagus

refectorium cathedral lamblamb pinchito with chips

refectorium catedral ligeritasligeritas: pringá, secreto serranito, solomillo & seta (and cheese)

refectorium cathedral langoustin jamonlangoustine and jamón brochette

refectorium flamenquinflamenquín

refectorium cathedral padronpimientos de padrón

refectorium catedral chistorrasgrilled chistorras with chips

refectorium catedral artichokesgrilled artichokes with jamón

refectorium catedral coquinascoquinas (small wedge clams in olive oil, white wine and garlic)

refectorium catedral musselsmussels al ajillo

refectorium catedral pulposlow-chargrilled octopus with smoked paprika

refectorium cathedral albondigonbeef albondigones (BIG meatballs)

refectorium catedral green beans jamongreen beans with jamón

refectorium catedral presa ibericagrilled presa Ibérica

refectorium berenjenasfried aubergine with salmorejo

IMG_4363grilled squid and veg

refectorium catedral calamaritoscalamaritos fritos (tiny squid in batter)

refectorium catedral boletusboletus mushrooms with jamón

refectorium catedral equipoHoracio, Victor, María, Abelardo, Paco & Julio (Tío Pollas)

refectorium catedral dining

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Updated July 2016

Besana Tapas

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besana
Original and stylish tapas in the heart of the picturesque Judería barrio in Utrera, about a half hour’s drive from Sevilla. I’ve been wanting to come here for ages and finally got a chance the other day when friends invited me to join them for lunch. We got there early as Besana is a cosy place and doesn’t take bookings, and we found a nice spot in the small dining room off the bar area.

Co-owners Mario Ríos Aguilera and Curro Noriego are constantly recreating Besana with new menus every few months, and there are also a few daily specials. Most of you know by now that I am not a huge fan of “gastrobars”, but Besana has a reputation for both quality and innovation, so I was up for trying anything. In the end I preferred the dishes that most resembled, well, food (surely foamed anything has had its day?) and that weren’t overly clever. Great care is taken with presentation here and dishes such as the perfectly grilled sea bass with asparagus and citrus emulsion and the squid ink croquettes with roasted garlic mayo were as tasty as they were attractive. The glazed sweetbreads with goat cheese and stir-fried setas were also a favourite, but I really should’ve known better than to order the mini-burger. Overall it was a very pleasant lunch with attentive service and some lovely wines by the glass.

Bread Charge: 0.80€

Niño Perdido, 1
Utrera
Tel 955 863 804
Open 13.00 – midnight Tuesday – Saturday
13.00 – 19.00 Sunday
Besana Tapas Website
€ € € €

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besana (4)

besana (6)

besana ajoblancoajoblanco with almonds and tuna chicharrones

besana setasgrilled setas ‘au jus’ with Inés Rosales tortas

besana chicken currychicken curry with rice, baked banana and coconut

besana corvinagrilled lubina (sea bass) with asparagus and citrus emulsion

besana huevos rotoshuevos rotos with potato and chistorra foam

besana lamb kebablamb kebab with tabouleh and cucumber yoghurt

besana gorgonzola mini burgergorgonzola-filled mini-burger

besana squid ink croquetassquid ink croquettes with roasted garlic mayo

besana sweetbreadsglazed sweetbreads with goat cheese and stir-fried setas

besana milhojas de cochinito“millefeuille” of cochinillo y sliced pears

besana sachersacher bizcocho with candied cherries and dark chocolate ice cream

besana curro marioco-owners Mario and Curro

besana (3)

besana (7)

La Bouganvilla

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bouganvillaLa Bouganvilla is the newest offering from Borja Galán, who runs the fabulous La Cosmopolita. It’s a very different style, serving typical Andalusian fare, and doing it very well. There’s a great terraza in the square and two floors of bar and restaurant space inside. And 1.75€ will get you a cold beer and a tapa while you check out the rest of the menu.

Granada 21
Málaga
tel. 951 006 103
Open 12.00 – midnight
(kitchen closed 16.30 – 20.00)
€ € €

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bouganvilla (1)
bouganvilla bar
bouganvilla cervezabeer & a tapa = 1.75€

bouganvilla tapasselection of complementary tapas

bouganvilla arrozarroz del día

bouganvilla huevos rotoshuevos rotos with chorizo and chips

bouganvilla (2)
bouganvilla (3)

bouganvilla terraza

Wendy Gamba

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Updated May 2015

wendy gamba

Since my first visit here with my friend Victor @welovemalaga, Wendy Gamba has made a few changes to the menu, including some “friends of Wendy” (non-gamba) items. Owned and operated by the same group who run KGB (previously Manzanilla) across the street, you can still get the famous Dani García bulltail burger here. Heaven. Happily Botani is still available by the glass, but the usual beverages of choice seem to be Victoria beer, vermouth on tap and a small selection of wines. And of course there are gambas galore. Plus a few of Wendy’s friends.

Nice friendly atmosphere and cheerful staff, in spite of there being no heating or airconditioning. Most comfortable times to go: spring and autumn.

Fresca 10
Málaga
Tel. 952 22 30 24
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 7

 wendy gamba tiles

wendy gamba salmorejosalmorejo with jamón

wendy gamba tartareprawn tartare with olive oil and madras curry “roe”

wendy gamba gabardinacrispy battered prawns

wendy gamba escondidaWendy escondida!
hidden inside grilled mushrooms with red pesto sauce

kgb gambasgrilled king prawns with salsa verde

wendy gamba croquetascroquetas de – what else? – gambas!

wendy gamba al ajillospicy gambas al ajillo

wendy gamba mollete chorizomollete de Antequera with chorizo, caramalised onion, chipotle sauce

wendy gamba morcilla rondamorcilla from Ronda

wendy gamba bb“bulltail burger” with au jus mayo and havarti cheese

wendy papaspatatas bravas

wendy gamba cornerIMG_3991

wendy gamba bar seats

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Updated May 2015

Los Gatos

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Updated May 2015

los gatos
Already well-established in Madrid for over 30 years, owner Miguel returned to his native Málaga and opened this second Los Gatos location in Plaza Uncibay. It’s a bright and buzzy spot that serves tapas all day long, many of them are displayed in a long case on the bar pintxo-style so you can just point and choose, or you can get hot dishes made to order. Genuinely friendly service and a fun kitschy atmosphere makes this is a great meeting point for the beginning of a tapeo, or even a full meal.

Make sure you try the morcilla with pine nuts and gambas with alioli, served on slices of crusty bread. Also very nice solomillo al whisky served with great chips. The bar doesn’t have a coffee machine but if you fancy one it’ll be brought over from the café across the square. It also has the best poured beer on tap I’ve had anywhere in Spain (watch them do it in the video below!) and with each drink you get a complimentary tapita. Plus you may find yourself with on-the-house cava and chocolates after paying your bill. This is the ultimate “cheap & cheerful” bar.

[note: the nickname for Madrileños is gato, for Malagueños it’s boquerón]

Plaza Uncibay 9
Málaga
tel 952 22 23 40
Open 11.00 – 1.00  / 7 days a week
(all day kitchen)
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Beer 10 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

los gatos tables

los gatos plaque
los gatos beera perfectly poured cervecita

los gatos tortillacomplimentary tortilla slices with beers

los gatos morcillamorcilla with pinenuts on toast

los gatos brie mushroomsbrie and mushrooms on bread

los gatos gambas alioligambas with alioli

los gatos anchoas solomilloCantabrian anchovy with tomato
grilled solomillo with peppers

los gatos ensaladillaensaladilla

los gatos tomatestomato salad

los gatos jamonjamón

los gatos complementary tapacomplementary tapa with drink

los gatos selectionselection of pinchos

los gatos salmonsalmon with blue cheese

los gatos (4) blue cheese

los gatos pimenton tortillasobrasada tortilla

los gatos croquetascroquettes

los gatos tapastapas display case

los gatos quesoqueso

los gatos (12)grilled solomillo (pork tenderloin) in whisky sauce

los gatos (16)toro

http://instagram.com/p/oEoXxnEVnH/
[click to see instagram video]

 los gatos ceiling

los gatos private room

los gatos wall

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Updated May 2015

Dom Vinos

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Dom Vinos is no more but you can find Antonio working his magic at Eboka

domvinos

Dom Vinos specialises in wine tastings and pairing menus, with an impressive listing of over 140 wines and premium spirits (the wine list changes monthly).  But you can also just stop in for a few tapas – be sure to check out the daily specials. It’s also a good idea to call ahead to book in case there is a special event going on.

My first (quick) visit here was back in December 2012 with a friend visiting from New Zealand – our snacks were delish and we loved the casual ambiance and the attentive service. My second visit was a bit more “intense” and Antonio was very happy to set us up with a fab tasting menu paired with some pretty damn fine sherrys. I am always impressed by how passionate Antonio is about sharing his knowledge of food and wine and what a welcoming and generous host he is. Another Dom Vinos lunch with travel writer friend Andrew Forbes (who was also inspired to write about our experience) convinced me that this is a place with consistently excellent wine, food and service. These days a trip to Málaga isn’t complete without a visit to Dom Vinos.

Delightful desserts are by local pastry chef María García ( Candy’s) and crazy good cocktails are creatively prepared by Jesús García Recaj.

Toquero 1
Málaga
Tel 666 330 336
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

dom vinos reserved
dom vinos (5)

IMG_2997award-winning ecological olive oil from Antequera
served with hot toasted rolls

IMG_3002porra Antequera with jamón and sea urchin

dom vinos ajoblancoajoblanco with “Málaga ice cream”
(raisins, almonds, rum)

dom vinos pringaspringá montaditos with cocido

dom vinos jamonjamón Ibérico & La Goya manzanilla

domvinos tom tartareRaf & Huevo de Toro tomato “tartare” with cilantro and payoyo cheese

dom vinos chicken ravioliravioli filled with free-range chicken, mozzarella and basil

dom vinos salmon pastramisalmon “pastrami”

dom vinos saladmixed greens, grilled asparagus, roast cherry toms, almonds & jamón

domvinos pulpotender pulpo (octopus) with bacon-potato purée and chili threads

26-08-2014 stewed beef cheek drizzled with truffle oil
(before and after mushing and drizzling)

dom vinos cheesespayoyo cheese with walnuts and jam

dom vinos sacristia (1)

dom vinos choc dulce leche
dom vinos candysdesserts by Candy

dom vinos petitfourspetit fours

dom vinos maria candypastry chef María García “Candy”

dom vinos antonio and sherryowner Antonio Fernández

dom vinos (8)

dom vinos (2)

dom vinos typical tasting all in a night’s work… a typical Dom Vinos tasting

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Updated August 2015

Bar Nerva

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Updated October 2017

Bar Nerva was first recommended to me by my friend Victor @WeLoveMalaga back in 2012 – it’s a bit off the beaten path but definitely worth making the effort. Now more than 25 years old, this traditional family-run tapas bar and restaurant will immediately win you over not only with its fabulous home-style food, but also with the genuine warmth and enthusiasm of the staff. There are only a few tapas on the menu, so best to go with friends and share larger plates. Or try the menú del día, which is excellent value. Be sure to try the croquettes (which is not something I usually say) and the arroz de Ibéricos, which is chock full of jamón and various sausages. Though I think it’s safe to say that you really can’t go wrong here – I’ve never had a dish that wasn’t exceptionally delicious.

Cristo de la Epidemia, 55
Málaga
Tel 952 267 949
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

nerva bar

nerva wine listwine list

la carta

nerva starterscomplimentary starters

ensaladilla de gambas

nerva croquetascroquetas:  Málaga sausage (L) and puchero (R)

nerva gambas pilpil croquetesspicy gambas pil-pil croquetas

nerva serranitoserranito especial with bulltail, fried peppers and
jamón Ibérico on toasted beetroot-dyed roll

selection of montaditos

nerva frozen grapewhite wine kept cool with a frozen grape

nerva arroz de ibericosarroz de Ibéricos

fried hake

nerva clamsgarlicky clams in sherry sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

nerva pork cheektender-stewed carrillada Ibérica

nerva solomillo cabralessolomillo Ibérico in cabrales (blue cheese) sauce

nerva choc moussechocolate cheesecake mousse

father and son Joaquín & Agustín

nerva tio pepe

nerva tio pepe

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Updated October 2017

Taberna Uvedoble

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Updated July 2018

Modern tapas are smartly served up by chef Willie Orellana at this minimalist taberna in the heart of Málaga, a stone’s throw from the Cathedral. Excellent food with a wine list that is also well thought out and very well priced, either by the glass or bottle. Friendly and informed staff offer good attentive service.

For me the most important thing is how well it all works together: fabulous food, friendly service, reasonable prices. If I lived in Málaga this would be a regular hangout – check out the tapas menu on their website and you’ll see what I mean. But it fills up fast, especially at weekends, so try to get there early. Must tries include the swordfish collar in Iberian pork fat (you know you want this!) the toasted squid ink fideo noodles with eensy Málaga calamares and alioli, and the super tasty mini prawn pil-pil kebab.  But it’s all good. Just go.

Cister 17
Málaga
Tel 951 248 478
Uve Doble Website
€ € € €

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Food 10 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

uvedoble bar
uvedoble wines

uvedoble new (3)

uvedoble olives winewine and local alora olives

uvedoble ajoblancoajoblanco with sardines and moscatel grape granita

uvedoble empanadillaempanadilla filled with boletus and gambas

grilled asparagus with romesco sauce

uvedoble spring rollscrispy prawn springrolls with soy sauce

uvedoble cevicheswordfish ceviche with Axarquía avocado

swordfish collar (morillo) in manteca colorada with tomato chutney

uvedoble salmon tatakisalmón tataky

tuna tataky with porra antequerana

uvedoble manitadeboned pork trotter with tart apple and pistachio

uvedoble pulpotender roasted pulpo with potato purée

uvedoble chistorrasgrilled chistorras with crispy potato straws

uvedoble prawn wrapmini kebab of gambas pil-pil with pimentón mayo

uvedoble flamenquin (1)flamenquín with presa Ibérica, cheese and padrón peppers

toasted fideos negros with calamaritos de Málaga and alioli

uvedoble lamblamb with couscous

suckling pig on a brioche bun

uvvedoble presagrilled presa Ibérica with padrón peppers

uvedoble willie noeliachef Willie and Noelia

uvedoble new (1)orange orange orange orange orange
Updated July 2018

El Tapeo de Cervantes

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Updated November 2014

tapeo cervantes
I was first introduced to this fabulous little bar just off the Plaza Jeronimo Cuervo (where the Teatro Cervantes is) a couple of years ago by friends who had just moved to Málaga. Co-owners and partners Gabriel and Romina have created a super-popular spot that is always packed with locals and visitors alike. If you don’t call ahead to book a table either get there early or be prepared to wait a while.

There’s a great selection of wines by the glass to pair with either traditional or innovative tapas. Favourites include the crispy jamón & manchego cheese flamenquín, grilled red tuna with cauliflower and carrot purées and the grilled secreto Ibérico. Be sure to check out the daily specials. Excellent value for money.

Also check out their second location El Mesón de Cervantes around the corner at calle Álamos 11.

Cárcer, 8
Málaga
Tel. 952 609 458
El Tapeo de Cervantes Website
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

tapeo cervantes the bar (2) the bar

tapeo cervantes jamonjamón Ibérico w/grilled asparagus, artichokes, porra antequerana

tapeo cervantes boqueronesboquerones al vinagre with salmorejo and guacamole

calamari with preserved lemons

 tapeo cervantes gambascrispy battered prawns

tapeo cervantes seabasshake with sweet potato

 jamón Ibérico and manchego flamenquín with tomato chutney

tapeo cervantes red tuna with purées red tuna with cauliflower and carrot purées

tapeo cervantes meatballsmeatballs in tomato sauce

tapeo cervantes bacalaoconfit bacalao with leek purée and piquillo pepper jam

tapeo cervantes chiperonespan-fried chipirones and spinach

tapeo cervantes pulpogrilled octopus with smoked paprika mash

pink salmon with herb butter and crispy black rice

tapeo cervantes secreto with pumpkingrilled secreto with pumpkin and pineapple jam

tapeo cervantes morcilla sweet potatomorcilla with egg and sweet potato

tapeo cervantes boletus asparagusgrilled boletus and asparagus with jamón

carrillada Ibérica with white beans and green chilis

warm apple crumble with vanilla ice cream

tapeo cervantes gabriel and romina  co-owners Gabriel and Romina

 

tapeo cervantes corchos

tapeo cervantes tables

Updated November 2014

Almocábar Bar & Restaurante

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I’m afraid that the other photos I took of Restaurante Almocábar have gone missing – this is one I salvaged from my iPhone. But it’s probably enough to make you want to go there, right? We were on a lunchtime “tapeo” as I wanted to try as many places as possible during our 24-hour visit, and the Almocábar was stop number one that afternoon. It’s a very traditional place with both a dining area and tapas bar inside. Outside in the square there is a lovely terrace set up under the trees with a view of the Almocábar gates, which is where we ate this wonderful grilled swordfish with perfectly grilled vegetables.

Friends had told me this was one of the best places to eat in Ronda and one look at the menu made me wish we were stopping there for a full meal. The service was pleasant but (ahem) a bit relaxed. Nice wine list. And nothing came served on slate or lathered up into a liquid nitrogen froth. Just well-executed, good quality food. I’ll be back.

Ruedo Alameda 5
Ronda
Tel 952 875 977
Closed Tuesdays
€ € € €

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