Author Archives: Shawn

Mesón Asador Toro

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I was first introduced to the Mesón Asador Toro by friends, and have returned on subsequent visits. It’s a fairly traditional bar-restaurant with plenty of space round the bar, a large dining area in a separate room to the side, and an outside terrace, and an overall very pleasant ambience. Service is efficient and friendly too.

The food is very good, with an emphasis on char-grilled meat (top choice the parrillada mixta – mixed grill – more than enough for two), but there’s a fair range of fish and seafood too. I probably wouldn’t have come here by chance, but now it’s become one of my go-to places in Jerez for no-frills homestyle cooking.

Porvenir 11
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 628 353 282
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

marinated carrots (complimentary)

papas aliñadas (complimentary)

dressed baby gems with anchovies and tomato

croquetas Ibéricas

artichokes in sherry sauce

gambas al ajillo

pork meatballs in salsa

presa with jamón

solomillo in oloroso sauce

retinto beef entrecôte

pork ribs

mixed grill: presa, solomillo, costillitas, lagarto,
chorizo criollo, morcilla de burgos, chips

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Bocarambo

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I had no idea this place even existed until some friends from Jerez took us here for lunch during the last Vinoble event. I was definitely impressed. The bar was opened some five years ago, with the conversion of a ground floor flat in a building owned by the family, and everything from the rustic modern decor, with a bar on one side, a little terrace outside, and the Andaluz patio dining room where we ate, to the service, encouraged a relaxed atmosphere for enjoying our meal. We also got a chance to chat with owner Manuel García Tubío as he made his way from table to table, making sure everyone was happy.

The menu is typical Andaluz – Jerezano, with lots of seafood, rice specialities, grilled meats, and an excellent tomato salad. Our friends insisted that we HAD to try the mushrooms with jamón, and well, so do you. I’d also say that the marinated pork liver with cilantro is a must-have. There’s also a good range of sherries (as you’d expect). Definitely recommended if you’re coming to Jerez.

Beato Juan Grande 9
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 646 966 569
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

dressed baby gem with anchovies

tomato salad with melva

spinach croquetas

marinated Ibérico pork liver with cilantro and onion

mushrooms with jamón

grilled secreto Ibérico

owner Manuel García Tubío

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La Deriva

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La Deriva has been on my radar since it opened in 2014 but as it’s a restaurant with just a few tapas options, it’s not great for solo dining. But on a  recent visit to Málaga I finally arranged to meet friends there for a meal. There are two dining areas inside and the décor is modern with attractive ceiling lighting and exposed brick walls. There is also a sidewalk terrace out on the busy street (never a favourite, sitting out in traffic).

The menu is interesting – a combination of traditional and innovative dishes that we found to be a bit hit and miss. The “tempura” prawns came covered a dense chewy batter, while the tempura veggies were light, crispy and delicious. The tuna mormo was also very good, and we finished off with an excellent cheese plate. Overall a pleasant experience, though I wouldn’t say it’s particularly good value for money. Service was okay.

Alameda Colón 7
Málaga
Tel 638 08 65 29
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

battered prawns with habanero alioli

tempura veggies with soy sauce

tuna mormo with sautéed spinach and pine nuts

cheeses

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Soca

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Opened in August 2016, Soca Restaurant, run by Joanna Coghlan, offers both Mediterranean cuisine and sushi. The attractive corner location has an L-shaped interior with seating either in front of the bar or along its other side, with a small sidewalk terrace. I just stopped in for a light snack and both the tapas I tried were excellent. I’d like to go back again with friends and try some of the larger plates for sharing. It’s another bright spot on previously down-at-heel Carretería street, which lately has been picking itself up with the arrival of new hipsterish bars, restaurants and shops.

Carretería 54
Málaga
Tel 951 53 26 34
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

salmon nigiri with lime and teriyaki

Ibérico pork rib arepa with avocado cream and romesco sauce

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Er Pichi de Cái

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A taste of Cádiz in Málaga, Er Pichi de Cái certainly delivers the goods. Just off Huelin beach it’s a cosy and comfortable bar with friendly staff and a great seafood menu. Try the authentic tortillitas de camarones, fabulous char-grilled octopus and probably the best tuna in escabeche I have ever had. There is also a good selection of regional wines, including some terrific sherries. It’s a bit of a hike from the city centre, or you can take a bus from the Alameda.

Tomás Echeverría 6
Málaga
Tel 667 89 96 60
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

tortillita de camarones

atún en manteca

char-grilled octopus

atún en escabeche

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Hierbabuena

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My “home away from home” in Málaga is in the same barrio as Hierbabuena and so I’ve passed by many times over several visits, but it was only recently that I decided to try it out. It’s a real neighbourhood bar with an attractive interior and spacious terrace in the square, which is a great place to be on a summer evening. And it turns out that the food is quite nice too. Also … all day kitchen!

There’s a small selection of tapas on the menu, but it’s mostly medium-sized plates for sharing. Love the gambas al ajillo and the fritos, as well as their simple fresh tomato salad. Nice cold Victoria beer, decent wines, good service and fun casual vibe.

Calle Puerta Nueva 1
Málaga
Tel 692 830 267
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

tomato salad

pork skewer “pincho moruno”

lagrimitas de pollo with alioli

lamb skewer

breaded rosado

sizzling gambas al ajillo

rice of the day

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Anyway Wine Bar

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Although it hasn’t been open long, this little wine bar has a very traditional feel, as if it has been here for years. I wasn’t able to stop long this visit, but we enjoyed a chat with owner David Camino, for whom the bar is obviously a labour of love. We also enjoyed a glass of fabulous manzanilla sherry and a wonderful PX based sparkling Rosé, as well as some excellent cheese and jamón Iberico (and bonus! David is a professional jamón cortador). The menu is small, mainly charcuterie and aperitifs, although there are some main courses too and, of course, an excellent wine list. Will definitely be back for a longer visit next time I’m in Málaga.

David hosts regular wine tastings, and is also happy to set up a personal one, either in Spanish or English. I really think this is a place to watch.

Paseo Reding 15
Málaga
Tel 951 076 734
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

owner David Camino

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Los Mellizos

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Updated July 2018

In 1956 Pepe Montes y Loli Montero opened their first fish bar on Malagueta beach, later relocating to Benalmádena with their four sons in 1982. Today the sons run a chain of very successful seafood restaurants along the Costa del Sol, and are also fish wholesalers who cater to almost 100 other restaurants, so it’s safe to say they know their business. The location in central Málaga comprises two buildings across the street from each other – one a traditional bar and restaurant, the other with a more stylish look. We opted to sit at the bar in the trad bar, in front of the enticing displays of fresh fish and seafood.

The fritos are a house speciality, but they also offer a variety of grilled, baked or stewed options, as well as excellent quality charcuterie. We also loved the sizzling gambas pil pil, and white bean seafood stew.

By the way, the business group takes its name from the brothers Florencio and Ramón, although they are not identical twins (mellizos), but fraternal twins (gemelos). Recommended!

Sancha de Lara 7
Málaga
Tel 952 22 03 15
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

salpicón de gambas

baby gems with peeled and marinated tomatoes

breaded rosada with alioli

chocos fritos (cuttlefish)

“tierra y mar” breaded veggies with chanquetes and prawns

boquerones al limón

white beans and seafood stew

sizzling prawn pilpil

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Updated July 2018

Mesón Ibérico

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José Luís Zorrilla opened the doors of the Mesón Ibérico in April 1998, with the ambition of making it a beacon in the world of tapas and good eating. His knowledge of food and his commercial experience has allowed him to offer the highest quality products at reasonable prices, with a touch of originality and a commitment to good service.

I first came here a few years ago on my own, and was at a bit of a loss as there aren’t many tapas on offer. I sat at the bar and tried a couple of the montaditos (tasty!) and left. More recently I visited with a friend and we were able to share a few plates. The decor is very old-school with lots of wood and white walls festooned with old photos, chalkboard menus and bottles of wine. In the bar area it’s pretty much self-service, and the ambiance is lively and convivial. I really liked it. And the food is terrific. Looking forward to a return visit.

San Lorenzo 27
Málaga
Tel 952 60 32 90
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

salchichón

smoked sardines on toast with avocado

montaditos: gambas al ajillo & pringá

lamb skewers

albondigón – massive pork meatball in almond sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

complimentary profiteroles

happy clients and staff

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Mesón El Sacristán

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We went to Meson El Sacristán for lunch on the recommendation of our apartment host Gracia (we were staying at the charming La Colegiata de Ronda around the corner). In fact her brother Antonio is the chef and owner of El Sactristán, and their entire family ended up sitting at the next table, so it felt like we were definitely at the right place.

The location in the main square beside the Santa María church in the old town is perfect, especially when the weather is right to sit outside on the terrace. For us, though, it was inside in a pleasant dining area to enjoy the house specialities – lots of meat grilled in a wood-fired oven, including some fabulous presa Ibérica (pork), beef tenderloin, and more unusually, delicious grilled lamb kidneys. Good service, lovely atmosphere and great food and wine. There are also set menus available. Definitely one to go back to.

Plaza Duquesa de Parcent 14
Ronda
Tel +34 952 875 684
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

grilled lamb kidneys

pluma Ibérica

beef tenderloin

olorosos

cheesecake

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