Brunchit Organic

brunchit

Although open all day, as the name suggests this little restaurant on the edge of Malaga’s historic centre specialises in breakfast, brunch, and early lunches. It’s the love child of two young entrepeneurs, local Lydia Nieto and her Italian partner Roberto, and both the place and the cuisine have something of an Italian feel. The bar is small and minimalist, featuring exposed brick walls and real wood furnishings. It’s also “geek friendly” with good free WIFI and lots of outlets along the walls and benches for keeping your devices charged up.

Food is locally sourced and organic, and features toasts, muesli, yoghurt and fresh juices, but also bacon, eggs and tomatoes for those looking for something more substantial. Along with the brunch menu (served daily from 9.30 – 15.30) there is also a good burger menu, though they’d do better to opt for a soft burger bun – the dense and chewy organic buns they use are not conducive to hand-held eating.

For me their star product is pizza (in this case the organic crust works very well) which you can order in two sizes, or choose a slice or two from the ever-changing varieties offered at the front counter. Orders must be placed and paid for at the bar, but food and drink are brought to your table. Not much of a wine list – just one red and one white (Italian) by the glass. A nice touch is the large glass urn which dispenses (free) herb and lemon water. Staff are very friendly and, if you have kids, you can sit at the bar in front of the kitchen window and keep them entertained watching the pizza chef tossing dough and making endless pizzas and focaccia.

Carreteria 46
Málaga
Tel 951 338 497
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

brunchit (9)

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brunchit (10)

brunchit (4)herb & lemon water

brunchit (18)pizza by the slice (eat in or take-away)

brunchit (7)foccacia & pizza

brunchit (19)

brunchit (13)pizza with extra parmesan and chili olive oil

brunchit diavolopizza diávola

brunchit mango avocado chickenmango, avocado & chicken salad

brunchit bacon cheese burgerbacon & cheddar beef burger

brunchit (2)

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brunchit (11)lots of plugs!

brunchit (12)

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Venta Esteban

esteban (1)

Founded in 1983 by the five Ballesteros brothers, Venta Estevan moved to its present location just outside Jerez in 2002. It is located in a large chalet-style building with ample parking (if you don’t have a car it’s about a 9€ taxi ride from Jerez). I’d been hearing about this place for years from various foodie friends and so finally did the taxi thing on a recent visit to Jerez, to try it out.

As you walk into the bar area there are displays of jamón, fish and seafood and local wines. There’s also a large terrace and several light, spacious dining rooms. The menu offers classic dishes, with just a few tapas in the bar, so best to go with a group of friends so you can share big plates (raciones). We sat in the bar, which felt a bit less stuffy than the dining area. Of course we had to try the house speciality El Antojo (The Craving) which was a huge plate of chips and fried onions, fried eggs and jamón. Then we tried the breaded artichokes and finished with grilled presa Ibérica (pork shoulder). Everything was very good quality, but perhaps another visit with more people would make it feel more special. And perhaps with someone who knows the staff, because although the service was okay, we felt a bit like we were being given the “tourist treatment”.

Colonia Caulina (Seville-Cádiz motorway)
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 316 067
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

esteban (5)

esteban (4)

esteban el antojoEl Antojo: fried eggs, fried onions, chips & jamón

esteban artichokesgrilled artichokes

esteban presagrilled presa Ibérica

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Tabanco Las Banderillas

Updated August 2018

Opened in 2012 by Fernando Lobato and Lucas Soto, Las Banderillas replaced an existing bar-restaurant of the same name. As well as sherry and vermouth from the barrel there are preserves and delicatessen products to eat on the premises or take away, and a good selection of hot tapas. In fact, it has more of a tapas bar than tabanco feel to it. It’s a fun and lively place to stop and is also excellent value for money. Don’t miss the house speciality rabo de toro (slow braised oxtail) and the sizzling gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns). And if you’re feeling a bit decadent, the fried pork ribs or the housemade chicharrones.

Service is a bit frenetic, but super friendly. There’s a good selection of wines, including some excellent sherries. This is my favourite place for traditional tapas in Jerez.

Caballeros 12
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 619 006 988
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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las banderillas (6)queso payoyo

sheep cheese aged in manteca

las banderillas auberginesfried aubergine (eggplant) with salmorejo

las banderillas calamarcalamares a la romana

las banderillas gambas ajillosizzling garlic al ajillo

las banderillas croquetas spinach roqueforte, bulltailcroquetas: spinach & pinenut and oxtail

croquetas ibéricas

chicharrones

las banderillas fried goat cheese with bacon leek saucefried goat cheese with bacon & leek sauce

pisto with fried egg

las banderillas prawns auberginesprawns wrapped in aubergine

chocos fritos

las banderillas hakebreaded hake

puntillitas al ajillo

las banderillas riñoneskidneys in sherry sauce

pork meatballs

fried “broken” pork ribs al limón

carrillada – braised pork cheek

las banderillas presagrilled presa Ibérica (pork shoulder)

las banderillas rabo torocola de toro – braised oxtail

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Updated August 2018

Atuvera

atuvera

Atuvera opened its doors in June 2015, on the site of the former Taberna Jerezanam, which had closed in 1996 after some 40 years of operation. The name is derived from the refrain of a song by the flamenco artist Lola Flores, whose statue stands in the plaza outside. It’s a fairly small bar, with an attractive rustic chic décor that falls just short of hipster (a good thing), with one large table and three small tables, but with additional seating along one wall and at the bar itself. Traditional touches include the exposed brick wall behind the bar, and the dark painted wood doors. The food is fairly modern, rather than typically traditional, and owner Carlos is friendly and welcoming, immediately making you feel at home.

We loved the fried chicken in super-crunchy cornflake breading (though I think it needs a kickier sauce than the mayo that comes with it – recommend asking for some mojo picón). The simple tostas with smoked sardine and marinated anchovy are also delicious, as is the cod in black squid ink batter. We didn’t feel adventurous enough to try the pork ribs in chocolate and orange sauce, and found the tender pork cheeks (another house specialty) a bit underwhelming. But overall it’s a very pleasant bar that I am happy to try again.

Ramón de Cala 13
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 684 358 394
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

atuvera (2)the bar

atuvera sardina anchoasardine with beetroot cream, anchovy with carrot purée

IMG_6131secreto (pork) burgers

atuvera (4)cornflake breaded chicken

atuvera (5)cod in squid ink batter

atuvera (6)

IMG_6135pork cheeks with hoisin mayo

atuvera carlosowner Carlos

atuvera (3)

atuvera (9)Lola Flores statue in the square

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El Bichero

el bichero

El Bichero (The Boathook) is a relatively new restaurant just off Jerez’s main Arenal Plaza, opened in 2011 by Fermín Anguita. There’s a pleasant outside terrace, a restaurant upstairs and – my favourite spot – a small bar downstairs for tapas (though you can also order from the restaurant menu at the bar). Specialities are local fish and seafood, but there are some good meat options too. Good wine list, nice staff… a must-visit whenever I’m in Jerez.

Pescadería Vieja 2
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 342 986
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

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el bichero gambas saladsalpicón de gambas

el bichero smoked sardineCantabrian achovies

IMG_5015smoked salmon

IMG_4995blue tuna tataky with soy sauce

el bichero sanlucar prawnsgrilled prawns

el bichero calamar arroxstewed squid with rice

el bichero chipichipirón and chips

el bichero mollejasgrilled sweetbreads and chips

el bichero chocos calamarefried calamari & chocos

el bichero cazon adobocazón (dogfish) in adobo

el bichero arroz marineroarroz marinero

el bichero Maitre Henry, owner Fermín and VIP cliente Narcisomaitre Henry, owner Fermín and VIP cliente Narciso

el bichero fish displayfish display

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El Tres Malagueta

el tres

A couple of years ago I visited the original El Tres location in Calle Strachan with a group of friends. We created our own tasting menu by ordering plates to share between the five of us, and it was most enjoyable. Then I heard that Grupo Gorki had taken over the landmark Antonio Martín location on Malagueta beach, with BA Japonés, El Merendero and El Tres taking up new residence. Couldn’t have been happier, because it’s a spectacular location and I hope Grupo Gorki will make it work. Not sure about the Japonese effort, but El Merendero is pretty good “gastrobar” fare, and El Tres is as wonderful as ever. Though I think to really appreciate the venue it’s best to go during the afternoon when you can enjoy the spectacular sea views.

I showed up at El Tres with a couple of die-hard foodie friends I’ve known for a few years: Angela and Mikel @polloyensalada. And we immediately decided the best course of action would be to share the tasting menus on offer. Because we all wanted to taste as much as we could, even if it was just one bite of something special. And the El Tres staff made this simple for us by dividing the two different tasting menus between the three of us (we ordered two “classics” and one “special”), so we could all have a bit of everything.

I have to say first off that both of the El Tres tasting menus are ridiculously good value, and the quality of the dishes is far and above my sad experience at Málaga’s only Michelin star restaurant. El Tres surpasses in other ways too. It all started off quite friendly and chatty, with our servers wanting to know what we were interested in… after that, it was like a ballet performance. I was so busy chatting with Angela and Mikel that it took awhile to notice that dishes kept appearing, without even noticing that the previous plates had been expertly whisked away. Wine glasses were topped up with impeccable timing, only when there was just a sip left, which was even more impressive given that the chilled bottle was not left at our table but… somewhere else. About half-way through our meal I started to click into all this… that everything was happening at a leisurely and comfortable pace, yet you felt like you were still being extremely well taken care of. The once or twice I had to turn my head to inquire about something a friendly server was at our table in an instant. Seamless service. Amazing food and wine. Great location. You know you want to do this.

Plaza de la Malagueta 4, Antonio Martín
Málaga
Tel 952 22 33 64
€ € € € €

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Food 10 | Wine 10 | Service 10 | Ambiance 9

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el tres (6)hot crusty bread with olive oil

el tres (7)fruit broth with amaretto

el tres (8)tuna empanada

el tres (9)smoked eel terrine with Poire Williams

el tres (10)seasonal mushroom carpaccio with truffled wild boar and pine nuts

el tres (11)millefeuille with smoked salmon and sherry sauce

el tres (12)stewed mushrooms with truffled slow-poached egg,
fried breadcrumbs, pine nuts

el tres (13)langoustine ravioli with “salsa Americana” and sea urchin alioli

el tres (14)fried artichokes with “broken eggs” and foie

el tres (17)monkfish, guanciale, cream of crab and artichokes

el tres (16)grilled sea bass with green beans and tomato concassé

el tres (19)boned pidgeon with carrot purée and pigeon liver on toast

el tres (18)presa Ibérica with sweet potato purée and cherry sauce

el tres (20)yoghurt cream with violets and caramalised nuts

el tres (21)caramalised pear on puff pastry with vanilla ice cream

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La Parrilla de Mané

Updated January 2017

parrilla manu
Who doesn’t love BBQ grilled meat? This fabulous Argentinian grill restaurant has become one of my favourite stops in Málaga. But some advice – as they don’t do tapas try to go with a small group so you can share lots of delicious plates and get lots of variety.

I like everything about La Parrilla de Mané. It’s in a great location, just a stone’s throw from the Cathedral. The restaurant is small, but it also has a bar with some hight tables and stools in front of it, and also a few tables outside on the terrace. I find it comfortably cosy. And the service is wonderful, friendly but still professional. The staff know their stuff and are helpful recommending wines and new dishes to try. The only thing we didn’t enjoy were the Black Angus ribs, which arrived chewy and flavourless. But all the other meats were spectacular, and very simply done. My favourites were the grilled sausages (chistorra, criollo, morcilla) and the secreto Ibérico. All meat dishes come with a choice of fried or baked potatoes, or salad, but you can also get extra side dishes and sauces (recommended! because they are all very good). Amazing value too.

Calle Cañón 3
Málaga
Tel 951 00 82 00
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

parrilla mane (2)

parrilla mane (4)

parrilla mane quesopayoyo cheese

parrilla mane chistorraschistorras (small spicy chorizo)

parrilla mane criollochorizo criollo

parrilla mane tablagrilled sausage plate

parrilla mane foie burger (1)foie beef cheeseburger (before)

parrilla mane foie burger (2)foie beef cheeseburger (after)

parrilla mane chicken brochettechicken veggie brochette

parrilla mane saucessauces: chimichurri, alioli, mojo picón

parrilla mane angus ribsAngus beef ribs

secreto Ibérico with chips and salad

parrilla mane orujoorujos

parrilla mane (9)team Mané

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Updated January 2017

Restaurante Arrieros

Updated February 2017

Linares de la Sierra, population 300, is about 90 minutes from Sevilla, deep in the Sierra de Aracena Natural Park, in the province of Huelva. It is an unlikely spot to find a michelin-star quality restaurant like Arrieros, run by partners Luismi López (chef) and Adela Órtiz (front of house). They offer seasonal menus based on local products, which happily includes lots of acorn-fed Ibérico pork from the nearby dehesa.

Restaurante Arrieros couldn’t be any more rustic and charming. The lovingly restored old building used to be the village bar, and it now comprises a series of small dining rooms and a small terrace. The Jabugo Menu is all about the pig and it really is a delight. It varies a bit from season to season, but you will usually find the pork liver marinated in fresh cilantro and olive oil, and the fabulous presa (pork shoulder) burger. There’s a nice selection of regional wines too.

There are really no set hours. Luismi and Adela will open when they get requests, so be sure to call ahead. And give yourself time to explore the village either before or after your meal.

Calle de los Arrieros, 2
Linares de la Sierra
Tel. 959 46 37 17
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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arrieros cilantro liverpork liver marinated with cilantro and spring onions

arrieros presa carpacchiopresa Ibérico carpaccio with foie shavings

melted goat cheese on toast, local honey and herbs

arrieros boletus, scrambled eggs, garlic oil, cilantroboletus mushrooms, scrambled eggs, garlic oil, cilantro

arrieros omato soup with cumin, mint, oregano, fig jamtomato soup with cumin, mint, oregano, fig jam

presa burger with peach jam

carrillada Ibérica

arrieros (13)cheesecake

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arrieros luismi adelaLuismi López & Adela Ortiz

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Updated February 2017

Tabanco El Pasaje

el pasaje

Tabancos are a combination of tavern and wine shop that is typical of Jerez de la Frontera. Wines (sherries) are sold either by the bottle (to take away or consume on the premises), or direct from small casks. Tapas are also sold, and there is a close association between tabancos and the culture of flamenco.

El Pasaje is probably the oldest still existing tabanco in Jerez, dating officially to its founding by Don José González Navarro in 1925, though prior to that it had been first a food shop and then a peña (flamenco club) for local waiters. It’s name (the passage) derives from the fact that it has two entrances in parallel streets. Under the current management a small side room that had been blocked off has been reopened.

There are regular flamenco events (times vary depending on time of year), and often impromptu performances, with a great atmosphere. The wines (sherry) are by Maestro Sierra, and there’s a very nice range of cheese and meat tapas, montaditos, and a few hot dishes. Bar service only.

Santa María, 8
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 333 359
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

el pasaje barrels

el pasaje quesocheese and beer

el pasaje mojamaamontillado with mojama (cured tuna)

el pasaje front roomthe front room

el pasaje variadastapas variadas

el pasaje sherry flightsherry flight

el pasaje chicharrones cadizchicharrones de Cádiz

el pasaje lomolomo in PX sauce

el pasaje chicharronesoloroso and chicharrones

el pasaje impromptuimpromptu afternoon performance

el pasaje back roomthe back room with stage

el pasaje showscheduled evening show

spontaneous Sevillanos

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La Plaza

la plaza
Part restaurant, part tapas bar, with a fabulous terrace for people watching in Plaza Merced. I’ve been meaning to come here for years and finally stopped in for a few tapas with a friend. Open for breakfast from 10am, with both bar and restaurant menus available from 1pm till 2am. There is also a daily set menu lunch.

Plaza de la Merced, 18
Málaga
Tel 952 36 98 78
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

la plaza (3)

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la plaza falafelfalafel with cumin and honey yoghurt

la plaza ribstender pork ribs with Chinese spices

la plaza burgermini beef burger with brie & bacon

la plaza (5)

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