El Tostón

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Shawn

el toston

Super rustic looking and all that, I thought I’d pop in for a snack. The complimentary tapa was two pimientos de padrón on bread. Okay, I guess. I snapped two other photos of anchovies on bread and a rather nice looking revuelto… but you know, the barman was borderline rude and was clearly giving me the “guiri treatment” while he snacked non-stop and chatted with friends at the end of the bar. You probably don’t want to go here.

Bernardo Lopez 11
Jaén
Tel
€ € €

Food 5 | Wine 5 | Service 3 | Ambiance 5

el toston (3)
el toston pimentos my complimentary tapa

el toston anchovies anchovies on toast with caperberries (someone else got this)

el toston revuelto nice looking revuelto

el toston (2)

El Rinconcillo de Javi

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Shawn

rinconcito javi Loved this bar. I wandered in to have a look before heading off for lunch elsewhere and was immediately taken in by the wonderfully OTT Semana Santa ambiance. I mean, it’s something you get used to in Sevilla, but it took me by surprise in Jaén. Also, it seemed more heart-felt here, not like something they were doing to lure in tourists.

Just had time for one tapita – a super tasty seafood “meatball” stew – and chatted a bit with Javi, who runs the bar with his mother. Hence the lovely homecooking. Javi’s mum wasn’t working that day – his aunt was cooking instead. Left me wanting more. Next time.

Arco del Consuelo 4
Jaén
Tel 670 36 06 68
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

rinconcito javi (3)
rinconcito javi jami co-owner Javi

rinconcito javi albondigas chocos albóndigas de pescado & mariscos (fish & seafood meatballs)

rinconcito javi (4) counting the days…

rinconcito javi (2) dining area

Los Arcos

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Shawn

las arcos tortilla buns warm rolls filled with freshly made tortilla (complimentary)

Very remiss not to have taken a pics of the restaurant (oops) so you get these lovely bagel-shaped buns instead. We were almost put off eating here by an initially rather cold greeting, but it had been recommended, so we decided to give it a try, and in the end we were glad we did.

The location, under Los Arcos (the arches) alongside the Paseo de la Constitución, was very pleasant on a summer evening, and our waitress (not the person who “greeted” us) was super friendly and helpful. As a result we sampled two complimentary tapas, a typical tortilla in a bun with amazing spicy olives on the side, and okay fried calamare. Then on the recommendation of the waitress we tried a plate of pork loin “de orza” (preserved in a herbed manteca) with fried egg and potatoes. Fabulous. Definitely the best thing we had to eat in our 24 hours in Baeza. Come here for this, even if you don’t have anything else.

Portales Alhondiga, 11
Baeza
Tel 669 769 336
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

las arcos calamares deep-fried calamares (complimentary)

las arcos lomo orza lomo de orza (manteca herb confit)

La Góndola

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Shawn

One of a number of quite similar looking bars with terraces under the arches alongside the Paseo de la Constitución, we stopped here briefly for a drink and a complimentary tapita, which proved to be “mystery” meatballs that were actually rather good. If it hadn’t been for the time demands of our research, and the fact that there was only one waiter for a fairly large and busy terrace, we might well have stayed longer.

And although it seems silly to write a “review” based on one tapa I reallly thought this place was worth a return visit. If you get there before me let me know how it was.

Paseo de los Portales Carbonería, 13
Baeza
Tel 953 742 984
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6

Bar Pacos

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Shawn

bar pacos

Bar Pacos (not to be confused with Casa Paco) can be found on the ground floor of the Hotel Puerta de la Luna. The bar is simply decorated, a bit dark but a pleasant enough space with quite a lively atmosphere, particularly for the middle of August.

As is typical in this part of Andalucía drinks came with a complimentary tapita, but less typically you could choose what you wanted from a good-sized courtesy menu (the complimentary tapas shown here were for two people). We had saquitos de bolognese, costillitas de orza (pork preserved in manteca), and chistorras with potatoes and a fried egg, all of which were fabulous. The menu proper was mostly raciones, but some dishes were also available as tapas. We tried a bacalao al ajo arriero (cod with garlic, peppers and onions), which was excellent, and a rather indifferent fried suckling pig. Overall a good eating experience.

Hotel Puerta de la Luna
Canonigo Melgares Raya, 7
Baeza
Tel 953 747 019
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bar pacos frito bolegnese fried filo with bolognese and blue cheese sauce (complimentary)

bar pacos ribs orza pork ribs “de orza” (complimentary)

bar pacos eggs chistorras egg, chistoras & potatoes (complimentary)

bar pacos bacalao arriero bacalao al ajo arriero (peppers, garlic, onions)

bar pacos cochinillo fried cochinillo (baby pork belly)

Puerta de la Victoria

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

puerta victoria
This relatively new bar a minute’s walk from the main square was recommended to us by Juan Hidalgo during our visit to the bodega, and turned out to be the best food experience of our Sanlúcar break. The bar is traditionally styled with lots of wood, sherry casks and shelves full of glasses and bottles, but doesn’t go overboard with the “fake antique” look, and there’s a little terrace in the pedestrian street outside, which was very pleasant on a relatively mild summer’s day.

There’s a nicely balanced menu with tapas ranging from 2 – 3.5€ (with one exception – a splendid stuffed & fried choco al amontillado for 4.50€). And I dare say that the tortillitas de camarones are every bit as good as at the better-known Casa Balbino around the corner. I’d like to go back with more friends to try some of the raciones (larger plates). Very good wine list with lots of options by the glass.

Calle de la Victoria, 7
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 365 925
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

puerta victoria (3)

puerta victoria jamon queso jamón Ibérico and Payoyo cheese

salpicón de mariscos

puerta victoria tortillita tortillita de camarones (prawn fritters)

puerta victoria tortillita art tortillita art

chocos fritos

puerta victoria (8) carrillada (Iberian pork cheek)

puerta victoria choco amontillado choco frito al amontillado with jamón and fried egg

puerta victoria bar

Updated August 2018

Casa Balbino

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

Casa Balbino could lay a very reasonable claim to being the best known bar in the centre of Sanlúcar, its fame due in part to its prime location on the pretty main town square, its age, and its reputation of being the place that all visitors have to go to at least once. I’m not sure that it quite lives up to the hype, but its still a very typical bar in a prime location, with reliably good food. It’s been going strong since founder Balbino Izquierdo Aldea arrived in 1924 and joined the staff of a small ultramarinos (grocer/corner shop), became its proprietor, and extended the business by opening a bar in the adjoining property. More recently it has also extended into Plaza de Victoria with a separate location that shares the same kitchen.

The bar is actually quite large, half essentially stand-at-the-bar or at the small shelves along the walls, the other half with about eight or nine tall tables with seating. Decor is dozens of old framed photos, mainly of bullfighting or scenes of the old town. The signature dish is undoubtedly the tortillita de camarones (shrimp fritter), and the menu is heavily biased towards local fish and seafood. And yes, you probably should come here at least once while you’re in Sanlúcar. But check the seafood prices before ordering… those large prawns can end up costing about 4€ each. Also be aware that it’s all self-service and the place can get crazy busy, so you’ll have to be very proactive about getting your food and drink. But the barmen are very friendly and helpful and, if you give them a wave, they will come over to refill your sherry glass.

Plaza del Cabildo, 14
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 36 05 13
€ € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

balbino (15)
balbino self service
balbino tortillitas tortillitas de camarones (prawn fritters)

tortillita perfection

balbino croquetas croquetas de merluza (hake)

balbino aubergine prawns wrapped in aubergine

presa Ibérica

balbino pincho moruno pincho moruno (lamb kebab)

breaded cuttlefish

balbino langostinos langoustinos – 4€ each!

balbino chistorras chistorras (spicy chorizos)

balbino gambas al ajillo gambas al ajillo

pork meatballs in tomato sauce

balbino (16)

balbino (14)

Updated August 2018

Taberna Der Guerrita

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

Taberna Der Guerrita came highly recommended as one of *the* bars to check out in Sanlúcar. The bar is rather nice, pleasantly rustic without overdoing it, and with a local neighbourhood feel. The tapas menu is modest in size – be sure to have the mojama (air-dried tuna), some of the best I’ve had anywhere. And as you might imagine, there was a very good wine list with many good by-the-glass options at very reasonable prices.

Der Guerrita is well known for its “sacristy” (in the sherry world a section of a bodega used for special wines), a room/shop adjacent to the bar used for holding catas (wine tastings) hosted by owner Armando Guerra.

Calle San Salvador, 34
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 697 826 096
€ € €

Food 5 | Wine 8 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

guerrita bar

guerrita mojama mojama (air-dried tuna)

pan-fried butifarra

guerrita carne salsa pork in sauce

guerrita champis jamon mushrooms filled with bacon

pincho moruno

gambas al ajillo

guerrita wine tasting

guerrita nook

Updated August 2018

Bar Navarro

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

navarro

Bar Navarro was recommended by many as an absolute must-go-to fried fish place with the best acedias (small sole) in the universe. Possibly such high praise contributed to a degree of disappointment by raising unrealistic expectations. The bar itself was a rather ordinary neighbourhood bar just outside the old town, and nothing wrong with that per se, but they could at least have cleared away the detritus of earlier meals from the next tables. Also, serving the manzanilla a plastic “jerry-can” might be quaint, but to me it just added to the can’t-be-bothered ambiance. There’s a bar section with a few tall tables along one side of the L-shaped space and a “dining” area in the other. It’s all self-service.

So we had to try the acedias, of course, and they were actually quite good, though not especially special. The chocos were tough and chewy – I would’ve sent them back but didn’t get the sense that the barman cared that much. We also had the tapaculos (a flat fish similar to sole), which were delicioius – I would definitely have again if I came back. Authentic? Yes, I suppose so, whatever exactly that means. Not sure that’s quite enough though.

Menacho 28
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel
€ €

Food 5 | Wine 4 | Service 4 | Ambiance 4

navarro bar the bar

navarro acedias acedias (small sole)

navarro chocos chocos (cuttlefish)

navarro tapaculos tapaculos (curiously translates as “butt plug”)

navarro dining room “dining” area

Bar Arturo

Posted on August 28, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2015

Bar Arturo is your typical no-frills, family-run biz, with paper table cloths and kitch decor (intentional or otherwise). It will no doubt be busy when you arrive, with a varied clientele of families, couples and groups of friends.

I have been in love with this place since I was first directed to it last year, and have been back a couple of times since then. But my last visit was marred – in fact ruined – by some of the worst service I’ve ever experienced. We were actually shocked when the manager told us off for politely asking if we’d been given the correct order (still convinced we hadn’t been). And the rudeness continued until we finally gave up and left. Very sad and unfortunate when something like this happens. I won’t be back.