A La Fuerza

a la fuerza

Calle de la Alameda de Andalucia, 32
Antequera
Tel 952 841 607
€ € €

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Food 5 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

This was something of a tale of two visits. On my first morning in Antequera, arriving on an early train from Sevilla with a friend, we came here for breakfast as it came highly recommended by my Twitter pals @PolloyEnsalada.  And we weren’t disappointed. This seems to be their forte, the place was busy, and we had one of those great typical Andalusian breakfasts – traditional Antequera molletes with serrano ham, olive oil and tomato, and a “tapa” of churros with hot chocolate (love that in this part of the country you order churros by the “circle”).

On the second evening we came back for tapas, with mixed results. The tapas menu was, shall we say, limited, and even some of those were not available. Then our first order of “secreto al ajillo” was so bad it had to be sent back, and we were debating whether to stay. Full marks at this point to the waiter, who persuaded us to try the gambas al ajillo (actually langostinos), which turned out to be very good, and they also made my friend a nice bocadillo for his journey home that night.

a la fuerza entrance

a la fuerza churrostwo rondas of churros

a la fuerza jamon tostadamollete with (lots of!) serrano ham and tomato

a la fuerza barthe bar

a la fuerza secretosecreto al ajillo – as disgusting as it looks

a la fuerza langostinossizzling king prawns al ajillo – much better

a la fuerza terraza

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Cumbres Mayores

Updated March 2019

cumbres_mayores

Trust me to go to a Spanish coastal city famous for its fabulous seafood and end up loving this place for its amazing MEAT dishes. One of the best known and most popular bars in Cádiz, Cumbres Mayores, just off the Plaza Mina, is traditional in both style and cuisine, but with more meat and less fish than is typical in Cádiz. It’s all about the pig here, and often unusual cuts (see “pig parts” photo below). We stop in as often as possible during our visits to Cádiz and we are never disappointed. In fact, I wish somewhere like Cumbres Mayores existed in Sevilla.

Aside from the cosy tapas bar area that greets you when you walk in, there are also a couple of dining rooms for sit-down meals, but my favourite place is at the bar, preferably in front of the jamón leg beer taps. It’s often super-crowded but just grab a drink and hang around awhile and you’ll usually be rewarded with a couple of bar seats. The tapas are very good and very reasonably priced, and the service is terrific. Favourites included the pork abanico Ibérico in PX sauce, which is honestly worth going to Cádiz for, grilled secreto (you can also get it breaded and deep-fried!) and the presa al ajillo. They also offer a special parrillada para dos (grilled meat for two) but I think it’s more fun to just order the tapas and share them with a friend.

Zorrilla, 4
Cádiz
Tel 956 21 32 70
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

cumbres mayores bar

cumbres mayores jamoes

cumbres mayores (10)stewed pluma Ibérica

cumbres mayores carrillada

carrillada Ibérica (pork cheeks)

cumbres mayores churrascochurrasco a la parrilla

cumbres mayores criollogrilled chorizo criollo

cumbres mayores secretosecreto Ibérico

breaded secreto Ibérico

cumres mayores presagarlicky grilled presa Ibérica

albóndigas en salsa

cumbres mayores pork tonguestewed pork tongue

cumbres mayores flamenquinflamenquín

grilled paleta Ibérica

tender stewed abanico Ibérico in PX sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

cumbres mayores beerAlfonso pouring beers

cumbres mayores bar areabar area

cumbres mayores diningdining area

cumbres mayores pig partspig parts

cumbres mayoresBest. Beertaps. Ever.

cumbres mayores tiles

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Updated March 2019

Taberna La Manzanilla

Updated March 2019

la manzanilla

Taberna La Manzanilla is a sherry bar, pure and simple, dedicated to the promotion of these local Cádiz wines, with a range of manzanillas, amontillados and olorosos (from Bodegas Delgado Zuleta in Sanlúcar de Barrameda) poured straight from the barrel. Founded in the early twentieth century as both a wholesale and retail operation, the taberna is now run by Pepe, the third generation of the García family, and still retains many of its original furnishings, maintained in perfect condition. Wonderful ambiance and a great place to start your tapeo.

Feduchy 19
Cádiz
Tel 956 28 54 01
€ € €
La Manzanilla Website

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Wine 9 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la manzanilla bar

la manzanilla amontillado manzanillaamontillado and manzanilla fina

la manzanilla olorososolorosos

la manzanilla back room (1)

la manzanilla back room (2)

la manzanilla barrels

la manzanilla bottles

amontillado fino

la manzanilla 1744

owner Pepe

la manzanilla venenciadorvenenciador

la manzanilla delgado zuleta

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Updated March 2019

La Sorpresa

Updated March 2019

La Sorpresa, a few minutes away from the central market, is a small abacería (a shop selling mainly traditional specialties) and tapas bar, with the emphasis on jamón Ibérico, tuna almadraba (the eco-friendly sustainable seasonal catch off the coast of Cádiz) and sherry, here supplied by Bodegas Delgado Zuleta, with the casks making a “wall” between the bar and the back room. A nice unpretentious local to stop in for a few starters at the beginning of your tapeo.

Arbolí 4
Cádiz
Tel 956 221 232
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 7| Ambiance 7


la sorpresa oloroso

Delgado Zuleta oloroso

la sorpresa jamon anchoaCantabrian anchovy and jamón Iberico

la sorpresa menuchalkboard menu

la sorpresa window

Andreea, Soraya & Ana

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Updated March 2019

La Bodeguilla del Bar Jamón

Updated July 2017

la bodeguilla
I fondly remember my first visit to La Bodeguilla back in the winter of 2013 – they had me at “crujiente de Ibéricos”. And while I was waiting for this amazing tapa I was given a complementary starter of lovely stewed lentils with chorizo. I happily slipped into a food coma after getting back to my hotel for a much needed siesta. Much later that evening I went back as I had been informed (via Twitter) that I’d missed that bar’s star dish – the tostada with jamón. A tostada? Special? Well, okay. Since it came so highly recommended I was ready to give it a go, and frankly a tostada was just about all I was up for after such a hearty lunch. And I was not disappointed. I had the half-portion of a slice of toasted country bread drizzled with garlic-infused olive oil, rubbed with fresh tomato and topped with top quality jamón that was slightly warm after being placed on top of hot toast, along with a glass of local Garum red wine. Heaven!

On another visit we were invited to a sherry pairing event, held in one of the dining rooms, which was spectacular and left me wanting to go back even more. This time we got to sit out on the terrace, which was lovely (sorry, no photo – will have to go back again!). This is a real family-run place, with chef-owner Borja in the kitchen and his family also helping out – his mother looked after us on our most recent visit. A must-go place in El Puerto for delicious homestyle cooking, excellent wines, and wonderful friendly service.

Misericordia, 5
El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz)
Tel 946 85 03 22
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la bodeguilla bar

la bodeguilla jamones

la bodeguilla lentilscomplimentary starter of lentils and chorizo

la bodeguilla crujiente ibericosalmond encrusted Iberian pork with potato purée and almond sauce

la bodeguilla crujientethe crujiente Ibérico sliced open

huevos a la flamenca

la bodeguilla jamon tostatoasted country bread with garlic olive oil, fresh tomato and jamón
(tapa above, ración below)

scrambled eggs (revuelto) with bacalao and red peppers

gambas “de la casa” with onions, green peppers, jamón

presa Ibérica with jamón and frites

la bodeguilla busy bar

chef Borja (right) with his family

la bodeguilla (9)

la bodeguilla postcards

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Updated July 2017

Las Flores Freiduría

las flores

Las Flores, in the square next to the central market, is very much a typical Spanish fried fish bar, and obviously popular, with lots of people packed round the bar and a constant queue at the busy takeaway section. There’s also a section inside with small tables adn a sidewalk terrace. A menu of all the traditional goodies (we had chocos, adobo and puntillitas), cooked in bulk and served up hot. Not much of a wine selection but at least there was a nice dry fino and the beer is very cold. Service was brisk and efficient, but could have been a bit more friendly. So basically, cheap(ish) but not so cheerful.

Plaza Topete, 4
Cádiz
Tel. 956 22 61 12
Open 9.00 – midnight 7 days a week
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 5 | Service 5| Ambiance 5

las flores barthe bar

 

las flores chocos adobocazón in adobo (marinated dogfish) and chocos (cuttlefish)

las flores fritoslos fritos

las flores puntillitaspuntillitas (tiny squid)

las flores servietasthere’s a second location on the causeway,
near the main beaches

las flores takeawaytake-away section

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La Candela

Updated July 2017

My first impression of La Candela a few years ago was “gastrobar” (and I am never being kind when I use that term), but once inside I was pleasantly surprised. The atmosphere is friendly and informal, and the food, a modern but not pretentious menu, is generally very good. On subsequent visits I’ve been pleased to see that things hadn’t changed in that respect.

Try the chicharrones de Cádiz (very different from the usual deep-fried version) and also the croquetas and tempura vegetables.  As an unusual touch, if you like the furniture or the paintings you can buy them.

Feduchy 1
Cádiz
Tel 956 22 18 22
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la candela entradaentrance

la candela kitchenopen kitchen

la candela croquetasjamón and setas croquetas

tuna tempura with tomato, parmesan & oregano sauce

la candela chicharroneschicharrones de Cádiz with cheese and sun-dried tomatoes

mixed green salad with tempura sardines, parmesan,
toasted hazelnuts,honey vinaigrette

la candela veggie tempuraveggie tempura with soy mayo

la candela pulporoasted pulpo with pimentón mashed potatoes and squid ink alioli

wagyu burger

la candela beefgrilled beef platter

Santiago, Pejie, co-owneres Carmen & Victor, Carmen, Lourdes

la candela window seatwindow seat

la candela dining areadining area

la candela diners Sunday diners

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Updated July 2017

Bar Gonzalo

bar gonzalo
This very typical neighbourhood bar was recommended to me by my hotel just around the corner. Nothing fancy, I was told, just some very good fried fish and home-style cooking. I got there around 2.30 pm, which turned out to be just before the “lunch rush”. I sat at a comfortable table and ordered a glass of sherry and a couple of frito tapas. A few minutes later the small bar was packed solid with locals ordering their favourite dishes. I wished I’d had time to try some of the delicious-sounding stews, but I had one other tapas bar to try that day and had to head out.

Micaela Aramburu 26
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 687227596
Closed Tuesdays
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

bar gonzalo cartathe menu

bar gonzalo chocoschocos fritos

bar gonzalo finofino Valeroso Grant

bar gonzalo merobreaded mero (grouper) with chips

bar gonzalo bar

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Cafe Royalty

Updated July 2017

cafe royalty (1)Over the years Cafe Royalty has become our official merienda (a kind of Spanish High Tea) stop for coffee, dessert and cocktails. The Royalty is certainly unique, describing itself as the only historically preserved grand romantic café in Andalucia, and with its ornate gilt plasterwork, painted ceilings and early 20th century furnishings it looks the part, and would not be out of place in Paris or Vienna.

The original café opened its doors in 1912 in celebration of the centenary of the Cadiz Cortes and the first Spanish constitution, and was a popular meeting place of local high society, artists and intellectuals until it closed its doors in the early 1930s. After being a warehouse and bazaar it was finally acquired by the De la Sema family in 2008, and lovingly restored to its former glory, re-opening in 2012, the centenary of the first Royalty.

The Royalty also do tapas and have a full restaurant menu, but for me it’s a spot to while away an hour or so late afternoon. Be sure to try the picatostas gaditanos, a traditional dessert made by soaking chunks of bread in milk, then deep-frying them. They are served warm with a dusting of icing sugar – delicious!

Plaza Candelaria
Cádiz
Tel 956 07 80 65

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Food | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

 cafe royalty chandelier

cafe royalty (2)

cafe royalty strudelapple strudel with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream

picatostes gaditanos – a house speciality

cafe royalty ceiling

cafe royalty (6)

cafe royalty (7)

 cava “benjamín”

Irish coffees

cafe royalty (5)massive G & T

cafe royalty mirror

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Updated July 2017

Casa Mazal

casa mazal (1)

Casa Mazal (Hebrew for fortune) can be found tucked away in a little side street in the old Jewish quarter of Córdoba, in a house with a courtyard with its origins in the 14th century. The speciality is the Sephardi cuisine of the Spanish Jews of the late mediaeval period, together with Arabic-Spanish dishes typical of the Moors and other traditional Andalucian dishes, prepared in accord with accepted kosher rules. The menu features lots of beans and vegetable dishes, fish, and lamb and chicken.

Bread Charge: 0€

Tomás Conde, 3
Córdoba
tel. 957 941 888
Open 7 days a week
12.30 – 16.00 / 20.00 – 23.00
Casa Mazal Website
€ € €
*vegetarian friendly

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Food 8 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

casa mazal (4)

casa mazal (5)

casa mazal (6)
casa mazal auberginedeep-fried aubergines with honey

casa mazal olivecod and vegetables on toasts

casa mazal salmorejothree kinds of salmorejo

casa mazal chickenchicken with tabouleh

casa mazal couscous duckduck confit couscous

casa mazal falafelfalafel

casa mazal ventrescagrilled tuna ventresca with sesame seeds

casa mazal icecreamviolet, rose and green tea ice creams

casa mazal (7)

casa mazal (8)

casa mazal (3)

casa mazal (2)

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