Los Arcos

las arcos tortilla buns                          warm rolls filled with freshly made tortilla (complimentary)

Very remiss not to have taken a pics of the restaurant (oops) so you get these lovely bagel-shaped buns instead. We were almost put off eating here by an initially rather cold greeting, but it had been recommended, so we decided to give it a try, and in the end we were glad we did.

The location, under Los Arcos (the arches) alongside the Paseo de la Constitución, was very pleasant on a summer evening, and our waitress (not the person who “greeted” us) was super friendly and helpful. As a result we sampled two complimentary tapas, a typical tortilla in a bun with amazing spicy olives on the side, and okay fried calamare. Then on the recommendation of the waitress we tried a plate of pork loin “de orza” (preserved in a herbed manteca) with fried egg and potatoes. Fabulous. Definitely the best thing we had to eat in our 24 hours in Baeza. Come here for this, even if you don’t have anything else.

Portales Alhondiga, 11
Baeza
Tel 669 769 336
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

las arcos calamaresdeep-fried calamares (complimentary)

las arcos lomo orzalomo de orza (manteca herb confit)

La Góndola

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One of a number of quite similar looking bars with terraces under the arches alongside the Paseo de la Constitución, we stopped here briefly for a drink and a complimentary tapita, which proved to be “mystery” meatballs that were actually rather good. If it hadn’t been for the time demands of our research, and the fact that there was only one waiter for a fairly large and busy terrace, we might well have stayed longer.

And although it seems silly to write a “review” based on one tapa I reallly thought this place was worth a return visit. If you get there before me let me know how it was.

Paseo de los Portales Carbonería, 13
Baeza
Tel 953 742 984
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6

Bar Pacos

bar pacos

Bar Pacos (not to be confused with Casa Paco) can be found on the ground floor of the Hotel Puerta de la Luna. The bar is simply decorated, a bit dark but a pleasant enough space with quite a lively atmosphere, particularly for the middle of August.

As is typical in this part of Andalucía drinks came with a complimentary tapita, but less typically you could choose what you wanted from a good-sized courtesy menu (the complimentary tapas shown here were for two people). We had saquitos de bolognese, costillitas de orza (pork preserved in manteca), and chistorras with potatoes and a fried egg, all of which were fabulous. The menu proper was mostly raciones, but some dishes were also available as tapas. We tried a bacalao al ajo arriero (cod with garlic, peppers and onions), which was excellent, and a rather indifferent fried suckling pig. Overall a good eating experience.

Hotel Puerta de la Luna
Canonigo Melgares Raya, 7
Baeza
Tel 953 747 019
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bar pacos frito bolegnesefried filo with bolognese and blue cheese sauce (complimentary)

bar pacos ribs orzapork ribs “de orza” (complimentary)

bar pacos eggs chistorrasegg, chistoras & potatoes (complimentary)

bar pacos bacalao arrierobacalao al ajo arriero (peppers, garlic, onions)

bar pacos cochinillofried cochinillo (baby pork belly)

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