El Faro – El Puerto de Santa María

photo courtesy of El Faro website

The El Faro group (which actually consists of 4 restaurants and a catering company), used to be best known (by me) for the El Faro restaurant in Cádiz, where I’ve stopped for tapas a few times, but there is also an El Faro fine dining restaurant and tapas bar in El Puerto de Santa María which I’ve been wanting to try for ages, and recently I had the opportunity to visit twice.

Restaurante El Faro in El Puerto has been run by chef Fernando Córdoba and his wife Ana Isabel Puerto for over 30 years now. It’s located just outside the old city, not far from the bullring, in an old manor house surrounded by gardens, including the restaurant’s own kitchen herb and seasonal vegetable garden,, and the general appearance and atmosphere is “modern in a traditional style”. There are several dining areas of various sizes, some for private functions, but our interest was in the substantial area in front of the huge wooden bar, which is where tapas are available.

The cuisine itself is generally typical of the region, with lots of fresh fish and seafood, with seasonal variations, especially for fresh vegetables, and the quality is excellent. Very hard to pick a favourite, though on our first visit Chef Fernando let us order the taquitos de urta frito, served in the body of the fish itself, which is usually only available in the dining room. Fabulous presentation and flavour, but I honestly can’t think of a dish we’ve tried here that wasn’t exceptional. Tempura baby leeks from their garden? Almadraba red tuna tartare? Their exquisite tortillitas de camarones? I think it’s safe to say you can’t go wrong here.

We were also fortunate enough to have Fernando show us around the restaurant’s substantial bodega (150 sq metres, with over 400 wines), and talk to us about the joys – and a few pitfalls – of the restaurant business. His genuine enthusiasm and love of food and wine shows itself in every aspect of the experience. I love that he is passionate about sherry wines, and also about working with the abundance of local products that he has available. Fernando is a modest chef, preferring to be behind the scenes, but his food deserves centre stage. El Faro is a “must do” if you are ever lucky enough to be in El Puerto de Santa María.

Avenida de Fuentebravía Km 0.5
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 870 952
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

tortillita de camarones

zamburiñas with lemon and capers

ruby red almadraba tuna tartare

tempura leeks from their own garden

grilled almadraba tuna with vegetables, quinoa and citrus sauce

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Bespoke

Updated July 2017

Situated on the banks of the River Guadalete in the sherry town of El Puerto de Santa María, Bespoke embodies a youthful approach to the sherry culture of the region, in an atmosphere that’s relaxed and fun. It is the creation of Carmen Gutiérrez, whose family owns Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosía next door. The décor and decorations are entirely hand made by Carmen using materials recycled from the bodega (barrels and implements), with lots of colour and whimsical touches. As you would imagine, there’s a good range of sherries, and of wines from other regions of Spain, accompanied by traditional local tapas and plates.

We only stopped in for desserts and a couple of sherry cocktails, but will certainly be back to try the food on our next visit to El Puerto.

Avenida de la Bajamar 36
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 106 412
Bespoke Website
€ € € €

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Food (haven’t tried yet) | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

bespoke (3)

bespoke (7)

bespoke arabic dessertsarabic pastries

bespoke cocktailssherry cocktails

bespoke (2)

bespoke (5)

bespoke (4)

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Updated July 2017

La Esquinita

la esquinita (1)
Although it’s only been open since 2011, La Esquinita does a pretty fair impression of a typical fried-fish bar that’s been there forever, right down to the ice-filled model boat for displaying the fresh fish. The food we had was good, a boquerones (anchovies) al limon, fried cuttlefish and puntillitas (tiny squid), washed down with some of the excellent local sherry. If you’re in any of the towns along this stretch of the coast, you’ll end up in a fried-fish bar at some point – this one was pretty good.

Calle Misericordia, 1
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 676 90 83 29
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6| Ambiance 6

la esquinita (2)
la esquinita (5)boquerones fritos

la esquinita (6)chocos fritos

la esquinita (7)puntillitas (tiny squid)

la esquinita (3)
la esquinita (4)

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La Bodeguilla del Bar Jamón

Updated July 2017

la bodeguilla
I fondly remember my first visit to La Bodeguilla back in the winter of 2013 – they had me at “crujiente de Ibéricos”. And while I was waiting for this amazing tapa I was given a complementary starter of lovely stewed lentils with chorizo. I happily slipped into a food coma after getting back to my hotel for a much needed siesta. Much later that evening I went back as I had been informed (via Twitter) that I’d missed that bar’s star dish – the tostada with jamón. A tostada? Special? Well, okay. Since it came so highly recommended I was ready to give it a go, and frankly a tostada was just about all I was up for after such a hearty lunch. And I was not disappointed. I had the half-portion of a slice of toasted country bread drizzled with garlic-infused olive oil, rubbed with fresh tomato and topped with top quality jamón that was slightly warm after being placed on top of hot toast, along with a glass of local Garum red wine. Heaven!

On another visit we were invited to a sherry pairing event, held in one of the dining rooms, which was spectacular and left me wanting to go back even more. This time we got to sit out on the terrace, which was lovely (sorry, no photo – will have to go back again!). This is a real family-run place, with chef-owner Borja in the kitchen and his family also helping out – his mother looked after us on our most recent visit. A must-go place in El Puerto for delicious homestyle cooking, excellent wines, and wonderful friendly service.

Misericordia, 5
El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz)
Tel 946 85 03 22
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la bodeguilla bar

la bodeguilla jamones

la bodeguilla lentilscomplimentary starter of lentils and chorizo

la bodeguilla crujiente ibericosalmond encrusted Iberian pork with potato purée and almond sauce

la bodeguilla crujientethe crujiente Ibérico sliced open

huevos a la flamenca

la bodeguilla jamon tostatoasted country bread with garlic olive oil, fresh tomato and jamón
(tapa above, ración below)

scrambled eggs (revuelto) with bacalao and red peppers

gambas “de la casa” with onions, green peppers, jamón

presa Ibérica with jamón and frites

la bodeguilla busy bar

chef Borja (right) with his family

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la bodeguilla postcards

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Updated July 2017

Bar Gonzalo

bar gonzalo
This very typical neighbourhood bar was recommended to me by my hotel just around the corner. Nothing fancy, I was told, just some very good fried fish and home-style cooking. I got there around 2.30 pm, which turned out to be just before the “lunch rush”. I sat at a comfortable table and ordered a glass of sherry and a couple of frito tapas. A few minutes later the small bar was packed solid with locals ordering their favourite dishes. I wished I’d had time to try some of the delicious-sounding stews, but I had one other tapas bar to try that day and had to head out.

Micaela Aramburu 26
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 687227596
Closed Tuesdays
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

bar gonzalo cartathe menu

bar gonzalo chocoschocos fritos

bar gonzalo finofino Valeroso Grant

bar gonzalo merobreaded mero (grouper) with chips

bar gonzalo bar

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