A stone’s throw from the Cathedral, I would’ve walked right past if it hadn’t come highly recommended by twitter pal @HERMANOPRIMERO, so I was on the lookout for a small “hole-in-the-wall” called Pato Rojo. There’s not much seating, a couple of tables on the sidewalk terrace and a few more in a small room at the far end of the bar. Most people cram into the narrow bar area and cheerfully order up.
This is totally my kind of place. Busy, buzzy ambiance, great food and friendly super-efficient staff. Also absurdly cheap. I went twice during my short visit to Jaén, once with a friend and again on my own. The first night my friend and I spent 12.90€ on drinks (3 beer, 3 wine) and were given about eight complimentary tapas. We were so full we didn’t get around to ordering any of the other mouthwatering dishes we saw coming out of the kitchen, so I took a few pics of them to show you.
Next day I stopped by at lunchtime and found a spot at the jam-packed bar. The barmen remembered me from the night before and started bringing me more “extras” until I told them I really wanted to order some food from the menu, specifically the grilled scallop with seafood. Which was stunning. By this time I was chatting away with the staff and the people on either side of me, and more food kept appearing that we all ended up sharing. What a great way to spend an afternoon. I loved Pato Rojo so much I wanted to take it home with me. There is nothing like this in Sevilla.
Bernabé Soriano, 12
Tel 953 23 40 99
€ € €
Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 10 | Ambiance 9
jam-packed bar
fritos variados
a very nice albariño
langostinos a la plancha (complimentary)
Cantabrian anchovy with evoo (complimentary)
boquerones fritos (complimentary)
battered prawns (complimentary)
José pouring beer
mojama (cured tuna) with evoo and peanuts (complimentary)
fried rejos – baby octopus tentacles (complimentary)
tilapia, a type of sole, with padrón peppers (complimentary)
chocos fritos (complimentary)
Ricardo using manzanilla spray on fried rosada (complimentary)
smoked salmon (complimentary)
grilled scallop with barely cooked prawns and salmon
tuna ventresca (not ours)
grilled carabineros (not ours)
mixed seafood platter (not ours)
orujo (complimentary)
Dream Team: José, Rachel & Ricardo
the red duck
busy buzzy bar
dining area
Founded in 1886, La Manchega offers a variety of typical tapas and specialises in Iberian charcuterie products and traditional stews. When I walked in I thought I would have a quick tapa and leave, but when I asked if I could take some photos (always best to ask first) Cristobal the barman got very chatty, telling me about the history of the bar, about Jaén, and then an old guy at the end of the bar, who turned out to be the owner, asked if I wanted to see downstairs. But of course!
stews
papas alioli
carne en salsa
migas
salchichas with chips
Wandered in here (or tried to) the first afternoon I was in Jaén, but it wasn’t quite open yet – even though there seemed to be several regulars inside – so my friend and I moved on. The next day I passed by again and I swear those same guys were in there. But this time it was officially open so I sat at the bar and tried a couple of tapas. Some fabulous cheese and a very good stewed meat dish (cannot remember what it was, other than delicious).
meat! very good (complimentary)
delicious cheese (complimentary)
Bea and owner Antonio
my complimentary tapa
anchovies on toast with caperberries (someone else got this)
nice looking revuelto
Loved this bar. I wandered in to have a look before heading off for lunch elsewhere and was immediately taken in by the wonderfully OTT Semana Santa ambiance. I mean, it’s something you get used to in Sevilla, but it took me by surprise in Jaén. Also, it seemed more heart-felt here, not like something they were doing to lure in tourists.
co-owner Javi
albóndigas de pescado & mariscos (fish & seafood meatballs)
counting the days…
dining area