El Faro – El Puerto de Santa María

photo courtesy of El Faro website

The El Faro group (which actually consists of 4 restaurants and a catering company), used to be best known (by me) for the El Faro restaurant in Cádiz, where I’ve stopped for tapas a few times, but there is also an El Faro fine dining restaurant and tapas bar in El Puerto de Santa María which I’ve been wanting to try for ages, and recently I had the opportunity to visit twice.

Restaurante El Faro in El Puerto has been run by chef Fernando Córdoba and his wife Ana Isabel Puerto for over 30 years now. It’s located just outside the old city, not far from the bullring, in an old manor house surrounded by gardens, including the restaurant’s own kitchen herb and seasonal vegetable garden,, and the general appearance and atmosphere is “modern in a traditional style”. There are several dining areas of various sizes, some for private functions, but our interest was in the substantial area in front of the huge wooden bar, which is where tapas are available.

The cuisine itself is generally typical of the region, with lots of fresh fish and seafood, with seasonal variations, especially for fresh vegetables, and the quality is excellent. Very hard to pick a favourite, though on our first visit Chef Fernando let us order the taquitos de urta frito, served in the body of the fish itself, which is usually only available in the dining room. Fabulous presentation and flavour, but I honestly can’t think of a dish we’ve tried here that wasn’t exceptional. Tempura baby leeks from their garden? Almadraba red tuna tartare? Their exquisite tortillitas de camarones? I think it’s safe to say you can’t go wrong here.

We were also fortunate enough to have Fernando show us around the restaurant’s substantial bodega (150 sq metres, with over 400 wines), and talk to us about the joys – and a few pitfalls – of the restaurant business. His genuine enthusiasm and love of food and wine shows itself in every aspect of the experience. I love that he is passionate about sherry wines, and also about working with the abundance of local products that he has available. Fernando is a modest chef, preferring to be behind the scenes, but his food deserves centre stage. El Faro is a “must do” if you are ever lucky enough to be in El Puerto de Santa María.

Avenida de Fuentebravía Km 0.5
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 870 952
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

tortillita de camarones

zamburiñas with lemon and capers

ruby red almadraba tuna tartare

tempura leeks from their own garden

grilled almadraba tuna with vegetables, quinoa and citrus sauce

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Bodeguita El Adobo

This was a delightful “new discovery” during my last visit to Cádiz, thanks to a recommendation by Twitter pal Antonio Colsa @elquillodecadiz. We stopped in on our last evening and already I can’t wait to go back. This is exactly the type of no-nonsense tapas bar I love. Run by Paco Abeijón “Paquito el Adobo”, who took over the spot in 2014 (originally founded in 1987 when it was converted from an abacería to a bar), the menu features market fresh fish and seafood done to perfection, either simply grilled or expertly deep-fried.

The bar is tiny, but there is a sidewalk terrace on the pedestrianised street. We squeezed in at the end of the bar and started with one of the house specialities – boquerones abiertos al limón. They were indeed some of the best I’ve ever tried. The only small “draw-back” is that most dishes are raciones (or media raciones) and so we were already pretty stuffed on fritos when Paquito came out and said we HAD to try the moreno, a local fish, prepared en adobo. We were also told that leaving without trying the tomatoes with melva was almost unheard of, but unfortunately we were given this vital information too late, when we could not eat one more bite. But this will be my first stop next time I am in Cádiz, and those tomatoes will be the first thing I order. Lovely personal and friendly service and some nice local wines too.

Rosario 4
Cádiz
Tel 636 814 675
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

tortillita de camarones

squid ink croquetas

moreno en adobo

boquerones al limón

acedias (small sole)

owner Paquito with daughter Carmen and Alejandro

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La Curiosidad de Mauro


Mauro Barreiro has a considerable reputation as a chef, having worked at various big name restaurants before opening his own in Puerta Real, and then recently relocating to Cádiz. This was just a brief “end-of-tapeo” stop for us, and the experience didn’t leave much of an impression. Modern style “tapas with a twist”, you can see Mauro is trying to be inventive. And it’s certainly popular enough, with plenty of people packed into the long, narrow bar space (there’s also a restaurant at the far end, but I couldn’t get through the crush to get a photo). Will have to give it another shot on our next visit to Cádiz.

Veedor 10
Cádiz
Tel 956 992 288
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

cola de toro (oxtail) bomba

presa Ibérica and aubergine with creamy cheese

pullet cannellone with truffle bechamel

chef Mauro

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Salicornia

Salicornia is owned by chef Juan Höhr, who returned to his native Cádiz to branch out on his own, and opened Salicornia in November 2016 in Calle Plocia, currently becoming fashionable as a good area of town to eat. We were taken there by our friends, Cádiz locals and serious foodies Pilar and Juan Antonio, and immediately fell in love with the place. It’s small (seating for just 22, and a small bar) and cosy, and the service very friendly. The whole experience was very enjoyable.

The menu is full and half plates, with Spanish origins and some novel twists, innovative and delicious. Among other things we shared a carpaccio of presa, some butterfish, and an off the menu salmon tataki, and all were excellent. Definitely recommended.

Plocia 2
Cádiz
Tel +34 856 661 403
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

tuna tartare with guacamole

creamy rice with Cádiz mountain mushrooms

presa Ibérica carpaccio

chef Juan Höhr

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Ultramar&Nos


Opened in the summer of 2015 by the brothers Ruibal and Pancho Jiménez, Ultramar&Nos takes its name via a play on words from the traditional Spanish ultramarinos (corner shop) that previously occupied the site. That corner position and the large windows give the premises plenty of light, and with fairly minimalist decoration that combines an element of rustic with a kind of “industrial chic”, the restaurant seems quite spacious. Service was efficient and friendly enough for a good background to the food.

The menu is of modest size, and combines traditional Spanish and international food in an interesting way. Although enticed by several of the menu descriptions, in the end we only tried two dishes, a starter of housemade beef sausages wrapped in chard instead of the usual intestine casing (very tasty), and the cachopo – a kind of big flat flamenquín with beef, cheese, aubergine and cecina (air-cured beef). The cachopo was so big, in fact, that we were left unable to try anything else. Next time!

Plaza de Mina 1
Cádiz
Tel 856 076 946
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

marinated carrots

beef sausages wrapped in chard

inside the sausage

beef and cheese cachopo

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Mini Bar

Mini Bar is one of those little hole in the wall tapas bars with a limited menu (basically fried fish) that nevertheless succeeds in exuding atmosphere and being very popular. It has a convenient location between the market and the Plaza Candelaría, so it’s great for a snack and beer stop between other activities. Owner Paco has been running the show for over thirty years and makes you feel at home as soon as you walk in the door.

Doctor Dacarrete 3
Cádiz
Tel  856 174 303
€ €

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Food 8 | Wine 6 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

affable owner Paco

fritura variada

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Bespoke

Updated July 2017

Situated on the banks of the River Guadalete in the sherry town of El Puerto de Santa María, Bespoke embodies a youthful approach to the sherry culture of the region, in an atmosphere that’s relaxed and fun. It is the creation of Carmen Gutiérrez, whose family owns Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosía next door. The décor and decorations are entirely hand made by Carmen using materials recycled from the bodega (barrels and implements), with lots of colour and whimsical touches. As you would imagine, there’s a good range of sherries, and of wines from other regions of Spain, accompanied by traditional local tapas and plates.

We only stopped in for desserts and a couple of sherry cocktails, but will certainly be back to try the food on our next visit to El Puerto.

Avenida de la Bajamar 36
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 106 412
Bespoke Website
€ € € €

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Food (haven’t tried yet) | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

bespoke (3)

bespoke (7)

bespoke arabic dessertsarabic pastries

bespoke cocktailssherry cocktails

bespoke (2)

bespoke (5)

bespoke (4)

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Updated July 2017

Balandro

balandro
The last few of times I’ve been to Cádiz I’ve passed up on the opportunity to pay a first visit to Balandro, despite the fact that it came recommended and well-reviewed, and seems to be well-frequented, but this time I felt I could no longer evade my responsibilities. In the end, it turned out pretty much as I expected. The U-shaped bar and main dining area are in a slick modern style, and pleasant enough, but seem lacking in real warmth and personality. The staff likewise.

The menu was typical gastrobar – more style than substance –  and a menu this long (you order by number) makes me think that there’s bought in, pre-prepared food involved. The tapas we had were good enough, but I didn’t find that “something special” that would bring me back. In the last analysis, if you like this trendy style of “concept” bar, you’ll like Balandro. If, like me, you usually prefer something with more character, this isn’t for you.

Alameda de Apodaca, 22
Cádiz
Tel 956 220 992
€ € €

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Food7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

balandro (3)
balandro filo cheese baconfilo with cheese and bacon

balandro lubinasea bass in “tempura” with rice noodles and stir-fried veg
in a mess of store bought “Asian” sauces.

balandro menuorder-by-number menu

balandro (2)

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La Esquinita

la esquinita (1)
Although it’s only been open since 2011, La Esquinita does a pretty fair impression of a typical fried-fish bar that’s been there forever, right down to the ice-filled model boat for displaying the fresh fish. The food we had was good, a boquerones (anchovies) al limon, fried cuttlefish and puntillitas (tiny squid), washed down with some of the excellent local sherry. If you’re in any of the towns along this stretch of the coast, you’ll end up in a fried-fish bar at some point – this one was pretty good.

Calle Misericordia, 1
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 676 90 83 29
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6| Ambiance 6

la esquinita (2)
la esquinita (5)boquerones fritos

la esquinita (6)chocos fritos

la esquinita (7)puntillitas (tiny squid)

la esquinita (3)
la esquinita (4)

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Puerta de la Victoria

Updated August 2018

puerta victoria
This relatively new bar a minute’s walk from the main square was recommended to us by Juan Hidalgo during our visit to the bodega, and turned out to be the best food experience of our Sanlúcar break. The bar is traditionally styled with lots of wood, sherry casks and shelves full of glasses and bottles, but doesn’t go overboard with the “fake antique” look, and there’s a little terrace in the pedestrian street outside, which was very pleasant on a relatively mild summer’s day.

There’s a nicely balanced menu with tapas ranging from 2 – 3.5€ (with one exception – a splendid stuffed & fried choco al amontillado for 4.50€). And I dare say that the tortillitas de camarones are every bit as good as at the better-known Casa Balbino around the corner. I’d like to go back with more friends to try some of the raciones (larger plates). Very good wine list with lots of options by the glass.

Calle de la Victoria, 7
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 365 925
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

puerta victoria (3)

puerta victoria jamon quesojamón Ibérico and Payoyo cheese

salpicón de mariscos

puerta victoria tortillitatortillita de camarones (prawn fritters)

puerta victoria tortillita arttortillita art

chocos fritos

puerta victoria (8)carrillada (Iberian pork cheek)

puerta victoria choco amontilladochoco frito al amontillado with jamón and fried egg

puerta victoria bar

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Updated August 2018