Cumbres Mayores

Updated March 2019

cumbres_mayores

Trust me to go to a Spanish coastal city famous for its fabulous seafood and end up loving this place for its amazing MEAT dishes. One of the best known and most popular bars in Cádiz, Cumbres Mayores, just off the Plaza Mina, is traditional in both style and cuisine, but with more meat and less fish than is typical in Cádiz. It’s all about the pig here, and often unusual cuts (see “pig parts” photo below). We stop in as often as possible during our visits to Cádiz and we are never disappointed. In fact, I wish somewhere like Cumbres Mayores existed in Sevilla.

Aside from the cosy tapas bar area that greets you when you walk in, there are also a couple of dining rooms for sit-down meals, but my favourite place is at the bar, preferably in front of the jamón leg beer taps. It’s often super-crowded but just grab a drink and hang around awhile and you’ll usually be rewarded with a couple of bar seats. The tapas are very good and very reasonably priced, and the service is terrific. Favourites included the pork abanico Ibérico in PX sauce, which is honestly worth going to Cádiz for, grilled secreto (you can also get it breaded and deep-fried!) and the presa al ajillo. They also offer a special parrillada para dos (grilled meat for two) but I think it’s more fun to just order the tapas and share them with a friend.

Zorrilla, 4
Cádiz
Tel 956 21 32 70
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

cumbres mayores bar

cumbres mayores jamoes

cumbres mayores (10)stewed pluma Ibérica

cumbres mayores carrillada

carrillada Ibérica (pork cheeks)

cumbres mayores churrascochurrasco a la parrilla

cumbres mayores criollogrilled chorizo criollo

cumbres mayores secretosecreto Ibérico

breaded secreto Ibérico

cumres mayores presagarlicky grilled presa Ibérica

albóndigas en salsa

cumbres mayores pork tonguestewed pork tongue

cumbres mayores flamenquinflamenquín

grilled paleta Ibérica

tender stewed abanico Ibérico in PX sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

cumbres mayores beerAlfonso pouring beers

cumbres mayores bar areabar area

cumbres mayores diningdining area

cumbres mayores pig partspig parts

cumbres mayoresBest. Beertaps. Ever.

cumbres mayores tiles

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Updated March 2019

Taberna La Manzanilla

Updated March 2019

la manzanilla

Taberna La Manzanilla is a sherry bar, pure and simple, dedicated to the promotion of these local Cádiz wines, with a range of manzanillas, amontillados and olorosos (from Bodegas Delgado Zuleta in Sanlúcar de Barrameda) poured straight from the barrel. Founded in the early twentieth century as both a wholesale and retail operation, the taberna is now run by Pepe, the third generation of the García family, and still retains many of its original furnishings, maintained in perfect condition. Wonderful ambiance and a great place to start your tapeo.

Feduchy 19
Cádiz
Tel 956 28 54 01
€ € €
La Manzanilla Website

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Wine 9 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la manzanilla bar

la manzanilla amontillado manzanillaamontillado and manzanilla fina

la manzanilla olorososolorosos

la manzanilla back room (1)

la manzanilla back room (2)

la manzanilla barrels

la manzanilla bottles

amontillado fino

la manzanilla 1744

owner Pepe

la manzanilla venenciadorvenenciador

la manzanilla delgado zuleta

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Updated March 2019

La Sorpresa

Updated March 2019

La Sorpresa, a few minutes away from the central market, is a small abacería (a shop selling mainly traditional specialties) and tapas bar, with the emphasis on jamón Ibérico, tuna almadraba (the eco-friendly sustainable seasonal catch off the coast of Cádiz) and sherry, here supplied by Bodegas Delgado Zuleta, with the casks making a “wall” between the bar and the back room. A nice unpretentious local to stop in for a few starters at the beginning of your tapeo.

Arbolí 4
Cádiz
Tel 956 221 232
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 7| Ambiance 7


la sorpresa oloroso

Delgado Zuleta oloroso

la sorpresa jamon anchoaCantabrian anchovy and jamón Iberico

la sorpresa menuchalkboard menu

la sorpresa window

Andreea, Soraya & Ana

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Updated March 2019

La Bodeguilla del Bar Jamón

Updated July 2017

la bodeguilla
I fondly remember my first visit to La Bodeguilla back in the winter of 2013 – they had me at “crujiente de Ibéricos”. And while I was waiting for this amazing tapa I was given a complementary starter of lovely stewed lentils with chorizo. I happily slipped into a food coma after getting back to my hotel for a much needed siesta. Much later that evening I went back as I had been informed (via Twitter) that I’d missed that bar’s star dish – the tostada with jamón. A tostada? Special? Well, okay. Since it came so highly recommended I was ready to give it a go, and frankly a tostada was just about all I was up for after such a hearty lunch. And I was not disappointed. I had the half-portion of a slice of toasted country bread drizzled with garlic-infused olive oil, rubbed with fresh tomato and topped with top quality jamón that was slightly warm after being placed on top of hot toast, along with a glass of local Garum red wine. Heaven!

On another visit we were invited to a sherry pairing event, held in one of the dining rooms, which was spectacular and left me wanting to go back even more. This time we got to sit out on the terrace, which was lovely (sorry, no photo – will have to go back again!). This is a real family-run place, with chef-owner Borja in the kitchen and his family also helping out – his mother looked after us on our most recent visit. A must-go place in El Puerto for delicious homestyle cooking, excellent wines, and wonderful friendly service.

Misericordia, 5
El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz)
Tel 946 85 03 22
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la bodeguilla bar

la bodeguilla jamones

la bodeguilla lentilscomplimentary starter of lentils and chorizo

la bodeguilla crujiente ibericosalmond encrusted Iberian pork with potato purée and almond sauce

la bodeguilla crujientethe crujiente Ibérico sliced open

huevos a la flamenca

la bodeguilla jamon tostatoasted country bread with garlic olive oil, fresh tomato and jamón
(tapa above, ración below)

scrambled eggs (revuelto) with bacalao and red peppers

gambas “de la casa” with onions, green peppers, jamón

presa Ibérica with jamón and frites

la bodeguilla busy bar

chef Borja (right) with his family

la bodeguilla (9)

la bodeguilla postcards

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Updated July 2017

Las Flores Freiduría

las flores

Las Flores, in the square next to the central market, is very much a typical Spanish fried fish bar, and obviously popular, with lots of people packed round the bar and a constant queue at the busy takeaway section. There’s also a section inside with small tables adn a sidewalk terrace. A menu of all the traditional goodies (we had chocos, adobo and puntillitas), cooked in bulk and served up hot. Not much of a wine selection but at least there was a nice dry fino and the beer is very cold. Service was brisk and efficient, but could have been a bit more friendly. So basically, cheap(ish) but not so cheerful.

Plaza Topete, 4
Cádiz
Tel. 956 22 61 12
Open 9.00 – midnight 7 days a week
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 5 | Service 5| Ambiance 5

las flores barthe bar

 

las flores chocos adobocazón in adobo (marinated dogfish) and chocos (cuttlefish)

las flores fritoslos fritos

las flores puntillitaspuntillitas (tiny squid)

las flores servietasthere’s a second location on the causeway,
near the main beaches

las flores takeawaytake-away section

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La Candela

Updated July 2017

My first impression of La Candela a few years ago was “gastrobar” (and I am never being kind when I use that term), but once inside I was pleasantly surprised. The atmosphere is friendly and informal, and the food, a modern but not pretentious menu, is generally very good. On subsequent visits I’ve been pleased to see that things hadn’t changed in that respect.

Try the chicharrones de Cádiz (very different from the usual deep-fried version) and also the croquetas and tempura vegetables.  As an unusual touch, if you like the furniture or the paintings you can buy them.

Feduchy 1
Cádiz
Tel 956 22 18 22
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la candela entradaentrance

la candela kitchenopen kitchen

la candela croquetasjamón and setas croquetas

tuna tempura with tomato, parmesan & oregano sauce

la candela chicharroneschicharrones de Cádiz with cheese and sun-dried tomatoes

mixed green salad with tempura sardines, parmesan,
toasted hazelnuts,honey vinaigrette

la candela veggie tempuraveggie tempura with soy mayo

la candela pulporoasted pulpo with pimentón mashed potatoes and squid ink alioli

wagyu burger

la candela beefgrilled beef platter

Santiago, Pejie, co-owneres Carmen & Victor, Carmen, Lourdes

la candela window seatwindow seat

la candela dining areadining area

la candela diners Sunday diners

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Updated July 2017

El Faro – Cádiz

Updated February 2017

For obvious reasons Cádiz is a fish and seafood kind of place, and with great tapas at the bar and a dining room for full meals, El Faro is a local classic, one of those places that everybody knows about and which is almost always busy. Lots of typical dishes from tortillitas de camarones to bacalao frito, and if you’re in the restaurant try the rice with squid ink. Just what you need before a walk along the sea front.

San Félix 15
Tel 956 211 068
Cádiz
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 7| Ambiance 7

marinated sardines on toast

el faro chocoschocos fritos (fried cuttlefish)

el faro croquetaspargo & bacaloa croquettes

king prawns in crispy pastry

el faro paviapavía de bacalao with wasabi over quince creme

el faro pavia on platepavía on plate

tortillitas de camarones

judiones with smoked fish

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Updated February 2017

Casa Manteca

Updated July 2017


The perfect place to start a tapeo in Cádiz, Casa Manteca (literally “House of Lard”) specialises in excellent charcuterie. Favourites include the fried chicharrones (pork scratchings), mojama (air-cured tuna), and morcilla de higado (liver black pudding), washed down with a sherry or two. But for me the star dish is the chicharrones especiales (thinly sliced pork belly served with a sprinkle of sea salt and a squeeze of lemon).

The atmosphere is very old style, with walls covered in bullfighting photos and memorabilia, but despite a first impression of “only locals allowed”, the staff are very welcoming and the service is fast and friendly. There are always people coming and going so if it looks too packed when you first arrive just wait a few minutes for a space to open up at the bar or one of the small tables.

Also look for Antonio who has a permanent stall outside the bar selling seasonal treats such as erizo (sea urchins), camarones, ostiones and whelks. Buy a paper cone of his seafood delights and take them inside the bar to get a drink.

Corralón de los Carros 66
Cádiz
Tel 956 213 603
Open: 12.00 – 16.00 / 20.30 – midnight
€ €

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Food 10 | Wine 9 | Service 8| Ambiance 10

casa manteca bar (2)
casa manteca bar (1)

casa manteca cervecacervecitas!

casa manteca cutting chicherronescutting up chicharrones

casa manteca chicharrones sherry fried chicharrones and sherry

chicharrones “especial” with sea salt and fresh lemon juice

casa manteca especiales closeupwish you could taste these…

casa manteca chicharrones closeupseriously good…

casa manteca morcilla higadomorcilla de higado (liver black pudding)

longaniza (chorizo) picante

casa manteca butifarrabutifarraaaaa!

tuna and tomato montadito

casa manteca mojamasuperb mojama (air cured tuna)

casa manteca carne hornoexquisite “carne al horno”

casa manteca anchoasCantabrian anchoas

casa manteca cutting jamoncutting up a jamón

casa manteca Nelson MantecaNelson Manteca

casa manteca photos

casa manteca photo corner

casa manteca antonioAntonio selling camarones, whelks and ostrones

casa manteca facade

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Updated July 2017