Tabanco El Pasaje

el pasaje

Tabancos are a combination of tavern and wine shop that is typical of Jerez de la Frontera. Wines (sherries) are sold either by the bottle (to take away or consume on the premises), or direct from small casks. Tapas are also sold, and there is a close association between tabancos and the culture of flamenco.

El Pasaje is probably the oldest still existing tabanco in Jerez, dating officially to its founding by Don José González Navarro in 1925, though prior to that it had been first a food shop and then a peña (flamenco club) for local waiters. It’s name (the passage) derives from the fact that it has two entrances in parallel streets. Under the current management a small side room that had been blocked off has been reopened.

There are regular flamenco events (times vary depending on time of year), and often impromptu performances, with a great atmosphere. The wines (sherry) are by Maestro Sierra, and there’s a very nice range of cheese and meat tapas, montaditos, and a few hot dishes. Bar service only.

Santa María, 8
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 333 359
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

el pasaje barrels

el pasaje quesocheese and beer

el pasaje mojamaamontillado with mojama (cured tuna)

el pasaje front roomthe front room

el pasaje variadastapas variadas

el pasaje sherry flightsherry flight

el pasaje chicharrones cadizchicharrones de Cádiz

el pasaje lomolomo in PX sauce

el pasaje chicharronesoloroso and chicharrones

el pasaje impromptuimpromptu afternoon performance

el pasaje back roomthe back room with stage

el pasaje showscheduled evening show

spontaneous Sevillanos

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Peña Flamenca de Jaén

 pena flamencaWandered in here (or tried to) the first afternoon I was in Jaén, but it wasn’t quite open yet – even though there seemed to be several regulars inside – so my friend and I moved on. The next day I passed by again and I swear those same guys were in there. But this time it was officially open so I sat at the bar and tried a couple of tapas. Some fabulous cheese and a very good stewed meat dish (cannot remember what it was, other than delicious).

Got chatting with the woman at the bar who introduced me to the owner. Turns out this bar is a labour of love, and one dedicated to flamenco. There are shows every Friday (more often if they can manage it) and it really felt like a place I’d like to go back to. It’s got a cosy bar area, massive dining room with stage, and a nice sidewalk terrace too.

Calle Maestra 11
Tel 665 768 657
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

pena flamenca (6)

pena flamenca (4)

pena flamenca meatmeat! very good (complimentary)

pena flamenca cheesedelicious cheese (complimentary)

pena flamenca owner barwomanBea and owner Antonio

pena flamenca (3)

pena flamenca (2)

the stage

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