[photo courtesy of the La Tintorera FB page]
Every time we went anywhere in Úbeda we seemed to end up at this fabulous little bar in the centre of the old town for a drink and a snack or two. It’s the brainchild of artist Gerardo Ruiz del Moral Tauste, who also owns and runs Misa de 12, and who is responsible for the interior décor with its cool hanging lights, mirrors and wire sculptures. There’s also a pleasant terrace out on the pedestrianised street.
The staff were top notch, knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and Malu made us feel particularly at home. The food we had was all excellent, including a complimentary gluten-free salmorejo with green apple instead of bread, a delish revuelto with calamari and potato straws and an exceptionally good lomo de orzo with potatoes and perfectly fried egg.
If I lived in Úbeda this would certainly be my “local”. Warm and welcoming with terrific food & wine and great staff. Also the most interesting and enjoyable music I’ve heard in a long time (thanks for that Malu!).
Real, 27
Úbeda
Tel 622 480 049
€ € €
Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9
ensaladilla (complimentary)
gluten-free salmorejo substituting green apple for bread (complimentary)
revuelto with calamares and potato straws (complimentary)
Malu with local Spiritu Santo EVOO
bric-wrapped spicy chorizos on potato purée (complimentary)
beer made with sea water
cheese empanadilla with raisins in port (complimentary)
wok-fried chicken & veggies with noodles
lomo de urza (pork loin confit) with egg and potatoes
top team Malu & Pedro
cold beers on the terraza
[photo courtesy of the La Imprenta website]
grilled sausage and pimiento (complimentary)
creamy hummus with jamón
traditional salmorejo (complimentary)
cured sheep cheese from Salamanca
fabulous olive oil for our bread
lomo de orzo (complimentary)
cabrales croquetas (complimentary)
flamenquín
presa Ibérica
the bar
chalkboard menu
“tigre” with prawn bread and Iberian cuts (complimentary)
calamar & prawn burger in squid ink bun with seaweed alioli
crispy chicken thighs with herb yoghurt sauce (complimentary)
pipirrana with bacalao, smoked evoo, tapenade
presa Ibérica with mushroom sauce
the “dining car” restaurant
jam-packed bar
fritos variados
a very nice albariño
langostinos a la plancha (complimentary)
Cantabrian anchovy with evoo (complimentary)
boquerones fritos (complimentary)
battered prawns (complimentary)
José pouring beer
mojama (cured tuna) with evoo and peanuts (complimentary)
fried rejos – baby octopus tentacles (complimentary)
tilapia, a type of sole, with padrón peppers (complimentary)
chocos fritos (complimentary)
Ricardo using manzanilla spray on fried rosada (complimentary)
smoked salmon (complimentary)
grilled scallop with barely cooked prawns and salmon
grilled carabineros (not ours)
mixed seafood platter (not ours)
orujo (complimentary)
Dream Team: José, Rachel & Ricardo
the red duck
busy buzzy bar
dining area
Founded in 1886, La Manchega offers a variety of typical tapas and specialises in Iberian charcuterie products and traditional stews. When I walked in I thought I would have a quick tapa and leave, but when I asked if I could take some photos (always best to ask first) Cristobal the barman got very chatty, telling me about the history of the bar, about Jaén, and then an old guy at the end of the bar, who turned out to be the owner, asked if I wanted to see downstairs. But of course!
stews
papas alioli
carne en salsa
migas
salchichas with chips
Wandered in here (or tried to) the first afternoon I was in Jaén, but it wasn’t quite open yet – even though there seemed to be several regulars inside – so my friend and I moved on. The next day I passed by again and I swear those same guys were in there. But this time it was officially open so I sat at the bar and tried a couple of tapas. Some fabulous cheese and a very good stewed meat dish (cannot remember what it was, other than delicious).
meat! very good (complimentary)
delicious cheese (complimentary)
Bea and owner Antonio
my complimentary tapa
anchovies on toast with caperberries (someone else got this)
nice looking revuelto
Loved this bar. I wandered in to have a look before heading off for lunch elsewhere and was immediately taken in by the wonderfully OTT Semana Santa ambiance. I mean, it’s something you get used to in Sevilla, but it took me by surprise in Jaén. Also, it seemed more heart-felt here, not like something they were doing to lure in tourists.
co-owner Javi
albóndigas de pescado & mariscos (fish & seafood meatballs)
counting the days…
dining area
warm rolls filled with freshly made tortilla (complimentary)
deep-fried calamares (complimentary)
lomo de orza (manteca herb confit)