La Deriva

Posted on August 9, 2018 by Shawn

La Deriva has been on my radar since it opened in 2014 but as it’s a restaurant with just a few tapas options, it’s not great for solo dining. But on a recent visit to Málaga I finally arranged to meet friends there for a meal. There are two dining areas inside and the décor is modern with attractive ceiling lighting and exposed brick walls. There is also a sidewalk terrace out on the busy street (never a favourite, sitting out in traffic).

The menu is interesting – a combination of traditional and innovative dishes that we found to be a bit hit and miss. The “tempura” prawns came covered a dense chewy batter, while the tempura veggies were light, crispy and delicious. The tuna mormo was also very good, and we finished off with an excellent cheese plate. Overall a pleasant experience, though I wouldn’t say it’s particularly good value for money. Service was okay.

Alameda Colón 7
Málaga
Tel 638 08 65 29
€ € € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

battered prawns with habanero alioli

tempura veggies with soy sauce

tuna mormo with sautéed spinach and pine nuts

cheeses

Soca

Posted on August 9, 2018 by Shawn

Opened in August 2016, Soca Restaurant, run by Joanna Coghlan, offers both Mediterranean cuisine and sushi. The attractive corner location has an L-shaped interior with seating either in front of the bar or along its other side, with a small sidewalk terrace. I just stopped in for a light snack and both the tapas I tried were excellent. I’d like to go back again with friends and try some of the larger plates for sharing. It’s another bright spot on previously down-at-heel Carretería street, which lately has been picking itself up with the arrival of new hipsterish bars, restaurants and shops.

Carretería 54
Málaga
Tel 951 53 26 34
€ € € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

salmon nigiri with lime and teriyaki

Ibérico pork rib arepa with avocado cream and romesco sauce

Er Pichi de Cái

Posted on August 8, 2018 by Shawn

A taste of Cádiz in Málaga, Er Pichi de Cái certainly delivers the goods. Just off Huelin beach it’s a cosy and comfortable bar with friendly staff and a great seafood menu. Try the authentic tortillitas de camarones, fabulous char-grilled octopus and probably the best tuna in escabeche I have ever had. There is also a good selection of regional wines, including some terrific sherries. It’s a bit of a hike from the city centre, or you can take a bus from the Alameda.

Tomás Echeverría 6
Málaga
Tel 667 89 96 60
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

tortillita de camarones

atún en manteca

char-grilled octopus

atún en escabeche

Hierbabuena

Posted on July 29, 2018 by Shawn

My “home away from home” in Málaga is in the same barrio as Hierbabuena and so I’ve passed by many times over several visits, but it was only recently that I decided to try it out. It’s a real neighbourhood bar with an attractive interior and spacious terrace in the square, which is a great place to be on a summer evening. And it turns out that the food is quite nice too. Also … all day kitchen!

There’s a small selection of tapas on the menu, but it’s mostly medium-sized plates for sharing. Love the gambas al ajillo and the fritos, as well as their simple fresh tomato salad. Nice cold Victoria beer, decent wines, good service and fun casual vibe.

Calle Puerta Nueva 1
Málaga
Tel 692 830 267
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

tomato salad

pork skewer “pincho moruno”

lagrimitas de pollo with alioli

lamb skewer

breaded rosado

sizzling gambas al ajillo

rice of the day

Anyway Wine Bar

Posted on July 28, 2018 by Shawn

Although it hasn’t been open long, this little wine bar has a very traditional feel, as if it has been here for years. I wasn’t able to stop long this visit, but we enjoyed a chat with owner David Camino, for whom the bar is obviously a labour of love. We also enjoyed a glass of fabulous manzanilla sherry and a wonderful PX based sparkling Rosé, as well as some excellent cheese and jamón Iberico (and bonus! David is a professional jamón cortador). The menu is small, mainly charcuterie and aperitifs, although there are some main courses too and, of course, an excellent wine list. Will definitely be back for a longer visit next time I’m in Málaga.

David hosts regular wine tastings, and is also happy to set up a personal one, either in Spanish or English. I really think this is a place to watch.

Paseo Reding 15
Málaga
Tel 951 076 734
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

owner David Camino

Los Mellizos

Posted on December 23, 2017 by Shawn

Updated July 2018

In 1956 Pepe Montes y Loli Montero opened their first fish bar on Malagueta beach, later relocating to Benalmádena with their four sons in 1982. Today the sons run a chain of very successful seafood restaurants along the Costa del Sol, and are also fish wholesalers who cater to almost 100 other restaurants, so it’s safe to say they know their business. The location in central Málaga comprises two buildings across the street from each other – one a traditional bar and restaurant, the other with a more stylish look. We opted to sit at the bar in the trad bar, in front of the enticing displays of fresh fish and seafood.

The fritos are a house speciality, but they also offer a variety of grilled, baked or stewed options, as well as excellent quality charcuterie. We also loved the sizzling gambas pil pil, and white bean seafood stew.

By the way, the business group takes its name from the brothers Florencio and Ramón, although they are not identical twins (mellizos), but fraternal twins (gemelos). Recommended!

Sancha de Lara 7
Málaga
Tel 952 22 03 15
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

salpicón de gambas

baby gems with peeled and marinated tomatoes

breaded rosada with alioli

chocos fritos (cuttlefish)

“tierra y mar” breaded veggies with chanquetes and prawns

boquerones al limón

white beans and seafood stew

sizzling prawn pilpil

Updated July 2018

Mesón Ibérico

Posted on October 19, 2017 by Shawn

José Luís Zorrilla opened the doors of the Mesón Ibérico in April 1998, with the ambition of making it a beacon in the world of tapas and good eating. His knowledge of food and his commercial experience has allowed him to offer the highest quality products at reasonable prices, with a touch of originality and a commitment to good service.

I first came here a few years ago on my own, and was at a bit of a loss as there aren’t many tapas on offer. I sat at the bar and tried a couple of the montaditos (tasty!) and left. More recently I visited with a friend and we were able to share a few plates. The decor is very old-school with lots of wood and white walls festooned with old photos, chalkboard menus and bottles of wine. In the bar area it’s pretty much self-service, and the ambiance is lively and convivial. I really liked it. And the food is terrific. Looking forward to a return visit.

San Lorenzo 27
Málaga
Tel 952 60 32 90
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

salchichón

smoked sardines on toast with avocado

montaditos: gambas al ajillo & pringá

lamb skewers

albondigón – massive pork meatball in almond sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

complimentary profiteroles

happy clients and staff

Mesón Mariano

Posted on February 2, 2017 by Shawn

Updated February 2019

Mesón Mariano is an unpretentious, friendly, family-run place, nicely kept up by Mariano and his family and staff, with efficient and helpful service. And the food is excellent, too. “La Reina de la Casa” (queen of the house) is the artichoke, which is expertly prepared several ways. I’m on a personal mission to eventually try all the artichoke dishes on the menu. Four down, two to go…

The other house specialty here is chivo (baby goat). The chivo “al ajillo” is a big plateful of tender stewed garlicky meat served with chips, that left us wanting more (but not wanting more, if you know what I mean). The roasted chivo leg and fried chops are also superb. Other fabulous meat dishes include the braised oxtail and the super tender suckling pig leg. Bring your appetite, and perhaps a couple of friends, to share a few plates with. There is also a bar section for tapas. Apparently we have to try the fried green tomatoes next time.

Granados 2
Málaga
Tel 952 211 899
€ € €

Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

Mariano at the bar

fresh salpicón complimentary starter

garlicky clams

fried breaded artichokes

braised artichokes with jamón

fried battered artichokes

artichokes montillana

meatballs in almond sauce

stewed chivo (baby goat) al ajillo

fried goat chops with garlic

roasted chivo leg

braised oxtail

suckling pig legs

suckling pig leg served

suckling pig leg…

1/2 roasted chivo (baby goat)

owner Mariano

orujo blanco

Eboka

Posted on February 1, 2017 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

After years of working in the family business and attending the prestigious La Cónsula catering school, in 2012 Antonio Fernández opened the excellent wine bar and gourmet food shop Dom Vinos just up the road from his family’s popular Bar Nerva. Then in December 2016 Antonio moved to the centre of Málaga, just a stone’s throw from the Cathedral, and, with the help of new partners, he expanded his enterprise in both size and scope. Eboka is an attractive and comfortable wine bar and restaurant, the staff are well-trained (I’d expect no less) and, as Antonio joked, the kitchen is the same size as the whole of his beloved Dom Vinos. There is also a nice sidewalk terrace.

The wine list is crazy (in a good way), and if you are lucky enough to find Antonio at the helm, he will take you through a fabulous wine-pairing journey that is hard to beat. Favourite dishes included the mixed croquetas (all of them were delicious) and the tartare of Málaga sausage – outstanding. The presa Ibérica salad is also something I will go back for.

Delightful desserts are by local pastry chef María García ( Candy’s) and crazy good cocktails are creatively prepared by Jesús García Recaj.

Pedro de Toledo, 4
Málaga
Tel 952 12 46 71
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

cava on the terrace

bar snack

mixed croquetas: garbanzos, ropa vieja and lomo Ibérico

salchichón de Málaga tartare

presa Ibérica salad with mango and fried cashews

rocket, avocado,octopus salad with emulsion of mustard & sea urchin

baby goat shoulder confit, cream of pumpkin, couscous

grilled abanico Ibérico with churrasco sauce

Antonio (second from right) with my friends

El Tres Malagueta

Posted on January 20, 2016 by Shawn

el tres

A couple of years ago I visited the original El Tres location in Calle Strachan with a group of friends. We created our own tasting menu by ordering plates to share between the five of us, and it was most enjoyable. Then I heard that Grupo Gorki had taken over the landmark Antonio Martín location on Malagueta beach, with BA Japonés, El Merendero and El Tres taking up new residence. Couldn’t have been happier, because it’s a spectacular location and I hope Grupo Gorki will make it work. Not sure about the Japonese effort, but El Merendero is pretty good “gastrobar” fare, and El Tres is as wonderful as ever. Though I think to really appreciate the venue it’s best to go during the afternoon when you can enjoy the spectacular sea views.

I showed up at El Tres with a couple of die-hard foodie friends I’ve known for a few years: Angela and Mikel @polloyensalada. And we immediately decided the best course of action would be to share the tasting menus on offer. Because we all wanted to taste as much as we could, even if it was just one bite of something special. And the El Tres staff made this simple for us by dividing the two different tasting menus between the three of us (we ordered two “classics” and one “special”), so we could all have a bit of everything.

I have to say first off that both of the El Tres tasting menus are ridiculously good value, and the quality of the dishes is far and above my sad experience at Málaga’s only Michelin star restaurant. El Tres surpasses in other ways too. It all started off quite friendly and chatty, with our servers wanting to know what we were interested in… after that, it was like a ballet performance. I was so busy chatting with Angela and Mikel that it took awhile to notice that dishes kept appearing, without even noticing that the previous plates had been expertly whisked away. Wine glasses were topped up with impeccable timing, only when there was just a sip left, which was even more impressive given that the chilled bottle was not left at our table but… somewhere else. About half-way through our meal I started to click into all this… that everything was happening at a leisurely and comfortable pace, yet you felt like you were still being extremely well taken care of. The once or twice I had to turn my head to inquire about something a friendly server was at our table in an instant. Seamless service. Amazing food and wine. Great location. You know you want to do this.