El Yerno

el yerno El Yerno is the “new kid on the block” in Málaga’s central market and offers much the same fare as the long-standing Café-Bar Atarazanas. The main differences are that it also has a few meat options as well as a few more wines by the glass. The grilled prawns are lovely, as are the boquerones al limón (my favourite way to eat them, cleaned and then marinated in lemon before deep-frying, so no pesky bones). I guess time will tell if it becomes as popular as its neighbour at the other end of the hall.

Mercado de Atarazanas
Atarazanas, 10
Málaga
Open: 9.00 – 15.00 Monday – Saturday
€ €

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el yerno (7)grilled prawns

el yerno clamsclams in garlic and olive oil

el yerno boquerones limonboquerones al limón

el yerno lamblamb moruno

el yerno chistorrachistorra onna stick

el yerno salmonetessalmonetes (red mullet)

el yerno chicken lamb

el yerno cigalas

atarazanas bar stained glass

Isabella Taller de Cocina

Updated February 2015
isabella tdc

Just off buzzy Plaza Uncibay, Isabella T de C is a charming spot with a bar area on the main floor, an upstairs dining area and a little sidewalk terrace. The market-kitchen menu features both traditional and trad-fusion food that can be a bit hit or miss. Their house speciality of  free range fried eggs with gambas pilpil and fried potato straws didn’t work for me, and I’ve yet to have a decent caesar salad in Spain. But in general the dishes (more large plates than tapas) are good, along with knowledgeable and welcoming staff, and a fun ambiance.

Jose Denis Belgrano, 25
Málaga
Tel 951 130 018
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

isabella tdc (2)

isabella tdc wine olives
isabella tdc porra porra caprese with buffalo cheese, tuna ventresca and basil

isabella tdc cauliflowercauliflower au gratin with creamy white wine sauce

isabella tdc tomato garlic cheese toastcheesy tomatoey herby garlic toast

isabella tdc rollitos turcocrispy cordero “al stilo turco” in filo

isabella tdc caesar“caesar” salad – really it’s a smoked chicken tropical fruit salad

isabella tdc sardinassardines, wheat sprouts and aubergine confit

isabella tdc eggs gambas pilpilfree range fried eggs with gambas pilpil and fried potato straws

isabella tdc croquetas pucherocroquetas de puchero

isabella tdc andres frank rosaAndrés, Frank & Rosa

isabella tdc wall

isabella tdc tapas menu

isabella tdc (3)

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Updated February 2015

Cafe-Bar Mercado Atarazanas

Updated July 2016

 atarazanas cafe barMarket bars are some of my favourite places to eat and the Atarazanas Market in central Málaga is one of my favourite markets. So if you’re walking around town midday and looking for a snack – or even a full lunch – then this is a great place to go. Café-Bar Mercado Atarazanas was the original market bar here and, what started as one small stall years ago, has been expanded with the addition of a couple of extra stalls in front, as well as a few tables outside. But the quality of the food remains the same, which is Very Very Good and also excellent value for money.

It’s all very no-frills as you’d expect, but there’s just something so charming about it, along with the super fast and friendly service, that makes me not very interested in going back to the other newcomer market bars (though I have been to them just to compare). Honestly, if I lived in Málaga I’d be tempted to have lunch here every day. Brochettes of prawns and octopus, perfectly grilled and sprinkled with smoked paprika, crispy-fried lemon-marinated boquerones, breaded or battered prawns, grilled hake, marinated dogfish… and the list goes on, and on. All super-fresh, all made to order, all of it wonderful. And if you are concerned about getting your 5-a-day they also do a tasty plate of tempura mixed veggies. Good ice cold beer and decent wines too.

Mercado de Atarazanas
Atarazanas, 10
Málaga
Open: 9.00 – 15.00 Monday – Saturday
€ €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

atarazanas bar pulpogrilled octopus
atarazanas prawngrilled prawns with paprika

atarazanas salmon prawngrilled prawns with salmon

atarazanas bar breaded prawnsfried breaded prawns

atarazanas bar calamaricalamari

atarazanas artichokesfried artichokes

atarazanas teamsome of the Atarazanas team

atarazanas bar cazoncazón en adobo (dogfish, known as pintaroja in Málaga)

atarazanas veggiescrispy fried veggies

IMG_2087boquerones al limón

atarazanas bar pulpo tunagrilled red tuna and octopus with alioli toasts

atarazanas bar (10)buzzy market bar atmosphere

atarazanas victorowner Victor
atarazanas bar stained glass

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Updated July 2016

Pez Tomillo

Updated January 2014

pez tomillo terraza

Imagine my surprise when I discovered last summer that Pez Tomillo is part of the Equipo Mpuntor group from Sevilla! I went back again on a recent visit to Málaga and remain impressed with the quality of the food and wine and also the service.  And of course the restaurant space is fabulous, with the same fun retro-stylish décor that Mpuntor has become known for. There’s a charming covered terrace out front and an ample bar and dining area as you enter, with lots of comfortable seating. The rooftop is open in the evenings and is both restaurant and cocktail bar, offering a lovely seaview. I also like the spacious open kitchen where you can see your food being prepared.

The menu is pretty much the same as at chef Ernesto Malasaña’s cool and eclectic Bar Antojo in Sevilla. I actually think this is a good idea for this barrio as Pedregalejo already has a lot typical seafood restaurants and, especially for those who live out there, I can imagine Pez Tomillo being a welcome change. Both tapas and racións are available for most dishes. The bacalao “al carbón” is tasty plump salt cod in squid ink tempura, the stewed bulltail with creamy potatoes is super-tender, and the eggs with foie and fried potatoes is seriously decadent. There’s a very nice wine list and the very professional service provided by the young and enthusiastic staff is delightful and unstuffy.

From the centre of Málaga you can get to Pedregalejo by catching the Nº 11 city bus, taking a taxi or, as I did, enjoy a 40-minute walk along the seaside promenade (but watch out for speeding cyclists!).

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Paseo de Pedregal 1
Málaga
Tel 951 253 627
Open: 12.30 – 2.00
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

pez tomillo terraza 1the terrace

pez tomillo barthe bar

pez tomillo open kitchenopen kitchen

pez tomillo gambas pilpilgambas pil-pil

pez tomillo bacalao carbonbacalao “al carbón” (salt cod in squid ink tempura)

pez tomillo cola del torostewed bulltail with creamy potato purée

pez tomillo huevos rotos foiefried free-range eggs with potatoes and grilled foie

pez tomillo dumplingsdumplings with sweet chili sauce

pez tomillo pollolagramitas de pollo with barbeque sauce

pez tomillo coulantechocolate coulante with white chocolate ice cream

pez tomillo terraza 2

pez tomillo rooftop barrooftop bar and restaurant

pez tomillo rooftop view
Updated January 2014

Alumbre

alumbre
Another great recommendation from a friend. I may not have gone into Alumbre otherwise, fearing it might be your typical “gastrobar”, but in fact it’s a charming spot with very friendly professional service and some lovely tapas ranging from 1.50 – 2.50€. Tapas are served in the front section; there’s a separate “raciones” menu for the terrace and dining area, which are also very reasonably priced. Looking forward to going back with friends next visit to Málaga to share some larger plates.

Strachan 11
Málaga
Tel 952 640 108 / 951 500 02
Open 12.00 – midnight (closed Sunday)
Alumbre Website
€ € €

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 alumbre (3)

alumbre jamon

alumbre (4)

alumbre olives

alumbre spring rolls prawn and seta springroll with kikoman soy reduction

 alumbre tortillita salchichonsalchicha de Málaga fritter

 alumbre albondiga almond saucepork meatball with almond sauce

 alumbre (2)dining area with open kitchen

José Carlos García

jcgarcia
In a word – disappointing. I have to say I was really excited when Madrid pals Lauren and Ale came down to join me in Málaga for what would be my first ever Michelin star experience (it was their second). We’d spent the early afternoon out and and about on a light market & tapas tour with Victor @WeLoveMalaga and by late evening we were more than ready for another fabulous food experience.

Things started off promising when we arrived and were asked if we would like to have our starter course outside on the terrace overlooking the beautifully renovated Muello Uno, which we enjoyed with a nice glass of cava. Then we were led into the very spartan looking dining area, relieved somewhat by a pretty “hanging garden” wall of green plants on one side. And then the show began…

We chose the 54€ tasting menu which – surprise! – ended up being 65€ because the IVA wasn’t included in the price, then went up to 80€ each with wine. After our starters out on the terrace (which were frankly more cute & clever than tasty) we were ready to be impressed. But making a show of decanting our mineral water (huh?) and donning one white glove before serving anything seemed, well, a bit silly.

Don’t get me wrong. Nobody loves a good performance better than me, but it also has to fit and make sense. And when you are serving people who are paying very good money for quality food it also makes sense to get a feel of who your customers are. But no. We received coldly efficient service throughout our meal… actually TOO efficient as dishes barely finished were whisked away and immediately replaced with the next course, before we’d had time to finish the wines we’d ordered to go with them. Which made for some “interesting” DYI pairings…

And speaking of feeling rushed. At one point while enjoying the small quisquillas (prawns), and after a waiter had already tried to take away our unfinished plates, a women who seemed to be a manager actually came out and said “are you finished now??”. We were dumbfounded as it was so intrusive and rude. But there was more to come.

There was one spectacular dish – the hake with beets – which made us all heave a sigh of relief. But this was followed by a completely tasteless beef cheek which left us wondering how you could suck all the life and flavour out of what is usually a crazy-tasty dish. Then after a “party trick” dessert and some frankly unpleasant sweet after-thoughts in a box we were done.

I don’t know about you, but if I pay 80 euros for a meal with wine I really want to enjoy more than one spectacular dish. I realise I’m new to this whole Michelin star thang, but I do know good food and so I’m not going to be blinded by superficial attempts at appearing to be something special. I don’t need my mineral water decanted, I don’t need to be led to the ladies room by the waiter (seriously, he did this), but I do expect to feel welcome and that the wait staff are capable of engaging in some semblance of personal interaction. We all felt the staff seemed not only very young (other than the manager) but also very inexperienced. No donning of a white glove is going to change that.

So that’s it. My first ever Michelin star experience was not so great. And my dinner companions felt the same (actually Ale was even more disappointed than I was). But I have another one coming up soon so let’s hope that turns out better.

Plaza de la Capilla, Muelle Uno
Málaga
Tel 952 003 588
José Carlos García Website
€ € € € €

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jcg lauren aleLauren and Ale

jcg (2)

jcg (3)hot gin foam with cold grapefruit granita

jcg (4)fried almonds “calle nueva”, chicharrones,
savoury macarron, sunflower seed polvorón

jcg (5)

jcg (6)

jcg (7)

jcg (8)mackerel with strawberries in various forms and black beer sorbet

jcg (9)quisquillas on sliced turnip with gamba fumé

jcg (10)hake with beets and “falsa gazpachuela”

jcg (11)beef cheeks with carrots and potato purée

jcg (12)Dr Seuss looking crunchy “nest”-banana purée-citrus sorbet

jcg (13)chocolate mint coins, marshmallows, macarrones, cheesecake

jcg (1)
jcg dining area

El Mesón de Cervantes

Updated February 2015

meson cervantes
El Mesón de Cervantes is just around the corner from its hugely successful sister bar El Tapeo de Cervantes. This new location is bigger and more stylish than the original location, with a bar area in the front for tapas and two dining areas for larger plates (raciones), though the menu and wine list are pretty much the same. Nice open kitchen and attractive space, though service can be a bit slapdash. Be sure to check out the daily specials.

Alamos 11
Málaga
Tel. 952 216 274
El Tapeo de Cervantes Website
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

meson cervantes barthe bar

meson cervantes dining areadining area

meson cervantes wine oliveswine and olives at the bar

meson cervantes spinach saladspinach salad with shaved manchego cheese and walnuts

meson cervantes pulpogrilled octopus with fideos and romescu sauce

meson cervantes pumpkin risottopumpkin & duck risotto

meson cervantes flamenquinflamenquín

meson cervantes meatballsmeatballs in tomato sauce

meson cervantes secretogrilled secreto with pumpkin and pineapple jam

meson cervantes bacalao with orange confit and spicy tomatobacalao with orange confit and spicy tomato

meson cervantes gambasbattered prawns

meson cervantes salmongrilled salmon with herb butter, garbanzo puree and black rice

meson cervantes dining area 2dining area

meson cervantes nookcosy nook

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Updated February 2015

El Refectorium Catedral

Updated July 2016

refectorium catedral

This sister bar of the El Refectorium Malagueta couldn’t be more different in style, but happily it has many of the same dishes from the original menu. El Refectorium Catedral is all chic minimalist elegance – designed by Jean-Claude Schmidt and Rafael Raez Ariza – with a lovely curved wall of windows that lets in lots of natual light. Service is professional and refreshingly unstuffy.

For me a visit to Málaga isn’t complete without at least one stop-in here. You can get the tapas menu at the bar, raciones at the tables. A couple of the many must-try dishes: the super tender slow-chargrilled octopus and the langoustine and jamón brochette. Also make sure to ask about the daily specials. Excellent wines by the glass and I think on par good value for money.

Calle Postigo de los Abades, 4
Málaga
Tel. 952 602 389
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

refectorium cathedral entrance

refectorium catedral boqueronesboquerones al vinagre – lots of them!

IMG_4331cheese!

IMG_4326caña de lomo

 refectorium catedral bolosbolos (a type of clam served live with a squeeze of lemon)

IMG_4346salmorejo with jamón and egg

refectorium catedral conchas finasconchas finas

refectorium catedral ensaladillaensaladilla with tuna

refectorium habasbroad beans and jamón with fried egg

IMG_4342white asparagus

refectorium cathedral lamblamb pinchito with chips

refectorium catedral ligeritasligeritas: pringá, secreto serranito, solomillo & seta (and cheese)

refectorium cathedral langoustin jamonlangoustine and jamón brochette

refectorium flamenquinflamenquín

refectorium cathedral padronpimientos de padrón

refectorium catedral chistorrasgrilled chistorras with chips

refectorium catedral artichokesgrilled artichokes with jamón

refectorium catedral coquinascoquinas (small wedge clams in olive oil, white wine and garlic)

refectorium catedral musselsmussels al ajillo

refectorium catedral pulposlow-chargrilled octopus with smoked paprika

refectorium cathedral albondigonbeef albondigones (BIG meatballs)

refectorium catedral green beans jamongreen beans with jamón

refectorium catedral presa ibericagrilled presa Ibérica

refectorium berenjenasfried aubergine with salmorejo

IMG_4363grilled squid and veg

refectorium catedral calamaritoscalamaritos fritos (tiny squid in batter)

refectorium catedral boletusboletus mushrooms with jamón

refectorium catedral equipoHoracio, Victor, María, Abelardo, Paco & Julio (Tío Pollas)

refectorium catedral dining

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Updated July 2016

La Bouganvilla

bouganvillaLa Bouganvilla is the newest offering from Borja Galán, who runs the fabulous La Cosmopolita. It’s a very different style, serving typical Andalusian fare, and doing it very well. There’s a great terraza in the square and two floors of bar and restaurant space inside. And 1.75€ will get you a cold beer and a tapa while you check out the rest of the menu.

Granada 21
Málaga
tel. 951 006 103
Open 12.00 – midnight
(kitchen closed 16.30 – 20.00)
€ € €

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bouganvilla (1)
bouganvilla bar
bouganvilla cervezabeer & a tapa = 1.75€

bouganvilla tapasselection of complementary tapas

bouganvilla arrozarroz del día

bouganvilla huevos rotoshuevos rotos with chorizo and chips

bouganvilla (2)
bouganvilla (3)

bouganvilla terraza

Wendy Gamba

Updated May 2015

wendy gamba

Since my first visit here with my friend Victor @welovemalaga, Wendy Gamba has made a few changes to the menu, including some “friends of Wendy” (non-gamba) items. Owned and operated by the same group who run KGB (previously Manzanilla) across the street, you can still get the famous Dani García bulltail burger here. Heaven. Happily Botani is still available by the glass, but the usual beverages of choice seem to be Victoria beer, vermouth on tap and a small selection of wines. And of course there are gambas galore. Plus a few of Wendy’s friends.

Nice friendly atmosphere and cheerful staff, in spite of there being no heating or airconditioning. Most comfortable times to go: spring and autumn.

Fresca 10
Málaga
Tel. 952 22 30 24
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 7

 wendy gamba tiles

wendy gamba salmorejosalmorejo with jamón

wendy gamba tartareprawn tartare with olive oil and madras curry “roe”

wendy gamba gabardinacrispy battered prawns

wendy gamba escondidaWendy escondida!
hidden inside grilled mushrooms with red pesto sauce

kgb gambasgrilled king prawns with salsa verde

wendy gamba croquetascroquetas de – what else? – gambas!

wendy gamba al ajillospicy gambas al ajillo

wendy gamba mollete chorizomollete de Antequera with chorizo, caramalised onion, chipotle sauce

wendy gamba morcilla rondamorcilla from Ronda

wendy gamba bb“bulltail burger” with au jus mayo and havarti cheese

wendy papaspatatas bravas

wendy gamba cornerIMG_3991

wendy gamba bar seats

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Updated May 2015