Perhaps unfairly, the Caballo Andaluz, a relatively new establishment that’s the member of a small local chain (including nearby Puerta de Sevilla and La Viuda), is going to get a mixed review. The restaurant itself is a pleasant enough space, light and open with a central courtyard and a main dining area to one side, and another upstairs. Our one dish, a huge flamenquin, was very good, and came with a tasty mayonnaise that we ordered more of. If the rest of the menu is as good then this is is certainly up to scratch on the food (it certainly all looked good at neighbouring tables).
But. We arrived early and were seated in the patio area where there was a flamenco guitarist performing. He was actually quite good but I prefer to give my attention to the food and my companions. Also it gave the place a “tourist trap” feel, which was exacerbated when a coachload of elderly Spanish ladies arrived and completely filled the dining area next to us. Nothing against elderly ladies, who in this instance fitted right in with the general ambiance, but between the guitarist, 45 women all chatting at once and the (really loud!) caged singing canaries hanging from the rafters, it was all a bit too much, and we fled after eating our excellent flamenquín.
Bodega San Basilio, 16
Córdoba
Tel 957 290 374
€ € €
Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 4
flamenco guitarist in patio
flamenquín
amuse-bouche (can’t remember what it was…)
porra Antequera with jamón & chopped egg
smoked eel terrine with Williams pear compote
José Pariente verdejo
crispy cooked mixed veg with a velouté of creamy jamón
line-caught hake in salsa verde with clams and confit potatoes
monkfish wrapped in cured pork cheek with crab cream and artichokes
octopus & rabbit smoked rice
cochinillo with crispy skin and apple confit
Galician beef tartare prepared at our table, served with crispy veg & chips
squab with carrot purée and toasts topped with its livers
[photo courtesy of the La Imprenta website]
grilled sausage and pimiento (complimentary)
creamy hummus with jamón
the bar
chalkboard menu
“tigre” with prawn bread and Iberian cuts (complimentary)
calamar & prawn burger in squid ink bun with seaweed alioli
crispy chicken thighs with herb yoghurt sauce (complimentary)
pipirrana with bacalao, smoked evoo, tapenade
presa Ibérica with mushroom sauce
the “dining car” restaurant
Founded in 1886, La Manchega offers a variety of typical tapas and specialises in Iberian charcuterie products and traditional stews. When I walked in I thought I would have a quick tapa and leave, but when I asked if I could take some photos (always best to ask first) Cristobal the barman got very chatty, telling me about the history of the bar, about Jaén, and then an old guy at the end of the bar, who turned out to be the owner, asked if I wanted to see downstairs. But of course!
stews
papas alioli
carne en salsa
migas
salchichas with chips
Wandered in here (or tried to) the first afternoon I was in Jaén, but it wasn’t quite open yet – even though there seemed to be several regulars inside – so my friend and I moved on. The next day I passed by again and I swear those same guys were in there. But this time it was officially open so I sat at the bar and tried a couple of tapas. Some fabulous cheese and a very good stewed meat dish (cannot remember what it was, other than delicious).
meat! very good (complimentary)
delicious cheese (complimentary)
Bea and owner Antonio
warm rolls filled with freshly made tortilla (complimentary)
deep-fried calamares (complimentary)
lomo de orza (manteca herb confit)
ensaladilla with squid ink and chocos
grilled secreto Ibérico with salmorejo
Located in Spain’s only octagonal square, Arxiduna is made even more unique by its natural cave dining areas, which were once used as a Mozárabe church and have been declared a Heritage site by the Andalucía government. There are three such dining areas inside along with a cosy bar area, and a spacious terrace with lovely views out in the square.
the bar
porra with purple carrot crumble, olive oil foam, tomato
pringá “sabor a madre”
whack of mini burgers
boquerones in flaky pastry
BBQ’d pork ribs
chargrilled octopus with guacamole and oyster sauce
mackerel with pickled veg and tuna in dark chocolate
grilled sea bass with fresh grilled veg and berberecho sauce
moroccan chicken pastela with dried fruit and apple sauce
bocata de calamares on a squid ink bun with mustard alioli
chicken curry risotto with coconut milk and parmesan,
putaitas (abanico Ibérico) with peppers, mango and black garlic
grilled presa Ibérica with mojo picón
vanilla and chocolate coulantes with berries
open kitchen with charcoal grill
Team Arxiduna
one of the cave dining rooms
terrace view