La Barra

la barra
La Barra belongs to the ever-growing Gorki chain of restaurants and is their “market kitchen” bar. It’s in a great location in central Málaga and has a nice terrace on pedestrianised calle Bolsa, as well as seating inside at the bar. There are also a couple of tables at the back which is apparently a dining area. I found this out on my third visit after sitting at a bar table near the front door and almost getting knocked out by a constantly spritzing “air freshener” (not noticable in the area directly in front of the bar). I was moved to a table at the back of the room – really right next to the bar tables – and was charged 1.80€ “table service” for the privilege. So basically, don’t sit there.

If you stop in for a quick tapita at the bar you can enjoy a nice assortment of tasty tapas, prettily presented. Service is professional and efficient, wines are good.

Bolsa 8
Tel 952 22 39 54
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 5

la barra bar

la barra pincho pulpooctopus, olive and hot pepper gilda

la barra butter fish with seaweedbutter fish with pickled seaweed

la barra presa mostazagrilled presa Ibérica with grainy mustard sauce

la barra (4)octopus mayo salad

la barra pork potatoesgrilled pork with potatoes and padrón potatoes

la barra window

la barra tables

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La Esquinita

la esquinita (1)
Although it’s only been open since 2011, La Esquinita does a pretty fair impression of a typical fried-fish bar that’s been there forever, right down to the ice-filled model boat for displaying the fresh fish. The food we had was good, a boquerones (anchovies) al limon, fried cuttlefish and puntillitas (tiny squid), washed down with some of the excellent local sherry. If you’re in any of the towns along this stretch of the coast, you’ll end up in a fried-fish bar at some point – this one was pretty good.

Calle Misericordia, 1
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 676 90 83 29
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6| Ambiance 6

la esquinita (2)
la esquinita (5)boquerones fritos

la esquinita (6)chocos fritos

la esquinita (7)puntillitas (tiny squid)

la esquinita (3)
la esquinita (4)

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Bar Pacos

bar pacos

Bar Pacos (not to be confused with Casa Paco) can be found on the ground floor of the Hotel Puerta de la Luna. The bar is simply decorated, a bit dark but a pleasant enough space with quite a lively atmosphere, particularly for the middle of August.

As is typical in this part of Andalucía drinks came with a complimentary tapita, but less typically you could choose what you wanted from a good-sized courtesy menu (the complimentary tapas shown here were for two people). We had saquitos de bolognese, costillitas de orza (pork preserved in manteca), and chistorras with potatoes and a fried egg, all of which were fabulous. The menu proper was mostly raciones, but some dishes were also available as tapas. We tried a bacalao al ajo arriero (cod with garlic, peppers and onions), which was excellent, and a rather indifferent fried suckling pig. Overall a good eating experience.

Hotel Puerta de la Luna
Canonigo Melgares Raya, 7
Baeza
Tel 953 747 019
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bar pacos frito bolegnesefried filo with bolognese and blue cheese sauce (complimentary)

bar pacos ribs orzapork ribs “de orza” (complimentary)

bar pacos eggs chistorrasegg, chistoras & potatoes (complimentary)

bar pacos bacalao arrierobacalao al ajo arriero (peppers, garlic, onions)

bar pacos cochinillofried cochinillo (baby pork belly)

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Bar Arturo

Updated August 2015

bar arturo
Bar Arturo is your typical no-frills, family-run biz, with paper table cloths and kitch decor (intentional or otherwise). It will no doubt be busy when you arrive, with a varied clientele of families, couples and groups of friends.

I have been in love with this place since I was first directed to it last year, and have been back a couple of times since then. But my last visit was marred – in fact ruined – by some of the worst service I’ve ever experienced. We were actually shocked when the manager told us off for politely asking if we’d been given the correct order (still convinced we hadn’t been). And the rudeness continued until we finally gave up and left. Very sad and unfortunate when something like this happens. I won’t be back.

Guita 9
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 33 00 12
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 1 | Ambiance 7

bar arturo backdining area in front of the bar

bar arturo bar
bar arturo tomatoes
tomatoes with garlic, evoo, salt

bar arturo gambas al ajillogambas al ajillo

IMG_4348calamares & sea bass

bar arturo mystery fishfried tuna ventresca? with fins attached?

bar arturo friturafried fish selection: hake, cuttlefish, red mullet, cuttlefish, john dory

IMG_4340fried prawns

bar arturo shells

bar arturo sign

bar arturo front

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Updated August 2015

La Cruz Blanca

Updated June 2016

la cruz blanca
One of Jerez’s best-loved tapas bars, La Cruz Blanca is located on the corner of Calle Consistorio and Plaza de la Yerba in the heart of the old city. It consists of a bar area with a couple of tables in the front, two dining rooms in the back, and a large and busy terrace in the Plaza. Although the bar has existed since the early 20th century, it ceased trading for several years before the current owners purchased and refurbished it in 2005. Decoration is fairly minimalist, but pleasant, and the food a mix of traditional and more modern fare, available either as tapas or full or media raciónes. There’s a good selection of wines by the glass, including sherries of course. Only complaint is that service can sometimes be slow, especially out on the terrace, so don’t go if you’re in a hurry. And be sure to ask for the “off the menu” specials of the day.

Consistorio, 16
Tel 956 32 45 35
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

IMG_6154

cruz blanca croquetas (2)prawn, leek and wakame croquettes

cruz blanca tuna chicharronesred tuna chicharrones

cruz blanca saladmixed salad

cruz blanca (2)breaded chocos (cuttlefish)

cruz blanca buñuelosbacalao fritters over roasted peppers

cruz blanca huevos rotosfried egg with artichokes and jamón

cruz blanca arroz negroarroz negro with strips of chocos

cruz blanca berenjenaassea bass in tempura with piquillo sauce

cruz blanca carrilladacarrillada Ibérica

cruz blanca presagrilled presa Ibérica with chips

cruz blanca presa jamon salmorejogrilled presa with jamón and salmorejo

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Updated June 2016

Bar Juanito

bar juanito terrace

Bar Juanito seems to figure on every list of bars to go to in Jerez, largely I think because it’s been around for over 70 years, is very typical, and it’s in a good location in the centre. There’s a small bar section when you walk in and a big dining area in a pleasant covered patio just beyond. Outside are several tables on the terrace, so lots of seating options.

I’ve been here twice, only stopping each time for a couple of tapas, but wasn’t overly impressed on either occasion. The signature artichoke dish was a bit tough and stringy, and the venison “bric”, while nice enough, could have been filled with almost anything. Nice fried cuttlefish, okay meatballs. Overall, it simply failed to make any deep impression. Nothing wrong with the place, just nothing that stood out as special. Service is very good.

Calle de Pescadería Vieja, 8
Tel 956 34 12 18
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 5 | Service 7 | Ambiance 5

bar juanito ensaladillacomplimentary ensaladilla starter

bar juanito artichokesstewed artichokes with jamón

bar juanito venado bricbric pastry filled with venison

bar juanito chocoscrispy fried chocos

bar juanito meatballsmeatballs

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El Almacén Vinos & Tapas

Updated August 2015

el almacen

El Almacén Vinos & Tapas is located in the center of town in a refurbished 18th century building that once housed a tradition grocery warehouse (almacén). A rather trendy, faux traditional bar, but despite that I liked the appearance of the place with its wooden beams, demi-john lights, antiqueish furniture and bric-a-brac. And it’s big, with 150 square metres divided into smaller dining spaces. My favourite place is sitting in front of the 15-metre original wood bar, but you can also opt for the terrace if you prefer sitting outside.

As the name suggests, wines feature prominently here and they specialise in local Cádiz wines, including a wide selection of sherries. There are a few tapas on the menu, but it’s mostly raciones (larger plates). Service could be improved – ie, make your clients feel welcome. But overall it’s an okay place to stop in for a drink and a snack.

Calle Latorre 6
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel
€ € € €

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Food 6 | Wine 8 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

el almacen (6)

el almacen (1)
el almacen (3)

el almacen prawnsprawn skewers with avocado dip

el almacen lomo jerezlomo al Jerez on toast with PX reduction

el almacen cod fritterssalt cod fritters with wasabi mayo

el almacen secretogrilled secreto Ibérico with fresh tomato and jamón

el almacen (4)

el almacen (5)

el almacen (7)

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Updated August 2015

 

Reino de León

reino leon

A trendy, gastrobar-type establishment with lots of exposed brickwork, but actually not at all bad. There’s a little terrace out in the pedestrianised street as well. Really we just stopped in for a snack and enjoyed an excellent white wine (Palomo Cojo – rueda), some ensaladilla negra and very good barbecued secreto Ibérico with fried potatoes and salmorejo. Service was a bit patchy given that it wasn’t overly busy, but overall we had a good time.

We went back for a quick wine stop the next day while waiting for our train and appreciated that the bar is open all day (though the kitchen closes between 4-8 pm). I’d be interested in trying it out again.

Latorre, 8
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 32 29 15
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

reino leon (3)

reino leon ensaladillaensaladilla with squid ink and chocos

reino leon presagrilled secreto Ibérico with salmorejo

reino leon (2)

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Ajonegro

ajonegro

I’ve been to Ajonegro twice now. First time was just over a year ago when I was attending a special sherry event and invited there for lunch (in a small group) by one of the bodegas. And it was fabulous! But of course I did wonder if it would be as good if I just went on my own without any “VIP treatment”. So on a recent visit to Jerez I stopped in with a friend to try some of their tapas, secretly pleased that the owner wasn’t there. But I needn’t have worried because we had very good service from one of the young waiters and the food was excellent. I’ve included photos of dishes from both visits below.

Ajoblanco is a bit of a walk out from the centre, but it is worth the effort. It’s a relatively new bar in a modern building across the avenue from the Sherry Park hotel. The setting is spacious and bright, with lots of natural light from the massive floor to ceiling windows. There is also a terrace, though it’s on a rather trafficky street.

The menu has both tapas and raciones and is a nice mix of traditional and fusion (mostly Asian influences). Must tries include the beautiful artichoke “flowers”, which taste as gorgeous as they look, and I was particularly surprised by the chicharrones de Chiclana, with payoyo cheese and tomato pesto. A simply amazing combination. We also liked the marinated chicken in panko with guacamole, but the mini beefburger with bacon was pretty much just a mini-burger. The grilled presa Ibérica (not a tapa) is also excellent.

 

Avda Alcalde Álvaro Domecq, 10
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 33 23 71
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

ajonegro bar
ajonegro lobster

ajonegro peppers

ajonegro chicherroneschicharrones de Chiclana with payoyo Villaluenga and tomato pesto

ajonegro artichokesartichoke flowers with lots of evoo

ajonegro burgermini beef burger with bacon

ajonegro chickenpanko breaded chicken with guacamole

ajonegro patatasfried potatoes with alioli

ajonegro stewchorizo a la Riojana

ajonegro prawnsking prawns in tempura

ajonegro presagrilled presa Ibérica and chips

ajonegro dessertleche frita

ajonegro chalkboard
ajonegro talbes
ajonegro logo

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Arxiduna

Updated September 2017

Located in Spain’s only octagonal square, Arxiduna is made even more unique by its natural cave dining areas, which were once used as a Mozárabe church and have been declared a Heritage site by the Andalucía government. There are three such dining areas inside along with a cosy bar area, and a spacious terrace with lovely views out in the square.

The first time I visited I was there on my own, and the chef kindly offered to create a tasting menu of some of his favourite dishes so I could try a few different things. This took me into a world of fusion food that was all very good (even – surprisingly – the tuna with chocolate!) but for my personal taste there were a few too many sauces. Simpler dishes like the calamar bocata and the grilled abanico (pork) worked best for me. More recently I visited with friends and we were able to try more dishes between us. I definitely recommend you stop in when you’re in Archidona – great atmosphere, fab staff, and a menu that has something for everyone.

Plaza Ochavada de Andalucía, 7
Archidona
Tel 658 77 03 46
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

arxiduna barthe bar

arxiduna ceiling

porra with purple carrot crumble, olive oil foam, tomato

arxiduna pringapringá “sabor a madre”

arxiduna mini burgerswhack of mini burgers

arxiduna boquerones in pastryboquerones in flaky pastry

arxiduna bbq ribsBBQ’d pork ribs

chargrilled octopus with guacamole and oyster sauce

arxiduna mackerel tunamackerel with pickled veg and tuna in dark chocolate

grilled sea bass with fresh grilled veg and berberecho sauce

arxiduna chicken pastelmoroccan chicken pastela with dried fruit and apple sauce

arxiduna bocata calamarbocata de calamares on a squid ink bun with mustard alioli

chicken curry risotto with coconut milk and parmesan,
served in a beef bone

arxiduna abanicoputaitas (abanico Ibérico) with peppers, mango and black garlic

grilled presa Ibérica with mojo picón

arxiduna choc vanvanilla and chocolate coulantes with berries

arxiduna coffee

arxiduna open kitchenopen kitchen with charcoal grill

Team Arxiduna

arxiduna caving dining areaone of the cave dining rooms

arxiduna terrace viewterrace view

arxiduna sign

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Updated September 2017