Bespoke

Updated July 2017

Situated on the banks of the River Guadalete in the sherry town of El Puerto de Santa María, Bespoke embodies a youthful approach to the sherry culture of the region, in an atmosphere that’s relaxed and fun. It is the creation of Carmen Gutiérrez, whose family owns Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosía next door. The décor and decorations are entirely hand made by Carmen using materials recycled from the bodega (barrels and implements), with lots of colour and whimsical touches. As you would imagine, there’s a good range of sherries, and of wines from other regions of Spain, accompanied by traditional local tapas and plates.

We only stopped in for desserts and a couple of sherry cocktails, but will certainly be back to try the food on our next visit to El Puerto.

Avenida de la Bajamar 36
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 106 412
Bespoke Website
€ € € €

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Food (haven’t tried yet) | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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bespoke arabic dessertsarabic pastries

bespoke cocktailssherry cocktails

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Updated July 2017

Atuvera

atuvera

Atuvera opened its doors in June 2015, on the site of the former Taberna Jerezanam, which had closed in 1996 after some 40 years of operation. The name is derived from the refrain of a song by the flamenco artist Lola Flores, whose statue stands in the plaza outside. It’s a fairly small bar, with an attractive rustic chic décor that falls just short of hipster (a good thing), with one large table and three small tables, but with additional seating along one wall and at the bar itself. Traditional touches include the exposed brick wall behind the bar, and the dark painted wood doors. The food is fairly modern, rather than typically traditional, and owner Carlos is friendly and welcoming, immediately making you feel at home.

We loved the fried chicken in super-crunchy cornflake breading (though I think it needs a kickier sauce than the mayo that comes with it – recommend asking for some mojo picón). The simple tostas with smoked sardine and marinated anchovy are also delicious, as is the cod in black squid ink batter. We didn’t feel adventurous enough to try the pork ribs in chocolate and orange sauce, and found the tender pork cheeks (another house specialty) a bit underwhelming. But overall it’s a very pleasant bar that I am happy to try again.

Ramón de Cala 13
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 684 358 394
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

atuvera (2)the bar

atuvera sardina anchoasardine with beetroot cream, anchovy with carrot purée

IMG_6131secreto (pork) burgers

atuvera (4)cornflake breaded chicken

atuvera (5)cod in squid ink batter

atuvera (6)

IMG_6135pork cheeks with hoisin mayo

atuvera carlosowner Carlos

atuvera (3)

atuvera (9)Lola Flores statue in the square

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Tabanco El Pasaje

el pasaje

Tabancos are a combination of tavern and wine shop that is typical of Jerez de la Frontera. Wines (sherries) are sold either by the bottle (to take away or consume on the premises), or direct from small casks. Tapas are also sold, and there is a close association between tabancos and the culture of flamenco.

El Pasaje is probably the oldest still existing tabanco in Jerez, dating officially to its founding by Don José González Navarro in 1925, though prior to that it had been first a food shop and then a peña (flamenco club) for local waiters. It’s name (the passage) derives from the fact that it has two entrances in parallel streets. Under the current management a small side room that had been blocked off has been reopened.

There are regular flamenco events (times vary depending on time of year), and often impromptu performances, with a great atmosphere. The wines (sherry) are by Maestro Sierra, and there’s a very nice range of cheese and meat tapas, montaditos, and a few hot dishes. Bar service only.

Santa María, 8
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 333 359
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

el pasaje barrels

el pasaje quesocheese and beer

el pasaje mojamaamontillado with mojama (cured tuna)

el pasaje front roomthe front room

el pasaje variadastapas variadas

el pasaje sherry flightsherry flight

el pasaje chicharrones cadizchicharrones de Cádiz

el pasaje lomolomo in PX sauce

el pasaje chicharronesoloroso and chicharrones

el pasaje impromptuimpromptu afternoon performance

el pasaje back roomthe back room with stage

el pasaje showscheduled evening show

spontaneous Sevillanos

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La Plaza

la plaza
Part restaurant, part tapas bar, with a fabulous terrace for people watching in Plaza Merced. I’ve been meaning to come here for years and finally stopped in for a few tapas with a friend. Open for breakfast from 10am, with both bar and restaurant menus available from 1pm till 2am. There is also a daily set menu lunch.

Plaza de la Merced, 18
Málaga
Tel 952 36 98 78
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

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la plaza falafelfalafel with cumin and honey yoghurt

la plaza ribstender pork ribs with Chinese spices

la plaza burgermini beef burger with brie & bacon

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Vinería Cervantes

vineria cervantes
Just one door over from the “mothership” El Tapeo de Cervantes, the new Vinería is pleasantly light and spacious, with large windows that open onto outdoor seating, and a small dining area at the back. The menu is pretty much the same as at El Tapeo, and there is the same great selection of wines too. The kitchen is open all day from 15.30 – midnight (basically it takes over when El Tapeo closes after lunch and then keeps going), which is especially good for visitors. Looking forward to visiting again soon.

Carcer 10
Tel 951 43 97 09
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

vineria cervantes (3)

vineria cervantes (10)cured ham rolls with arugula and sheep cheese

vineria cervantes boqueronesboquerones al vinagre with salmorejo and guacamole

vineria cervantes gambasbattered prawns with cilantro alioli

vineria cervantes empanadasoxtail empanada with sofrito

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La Barra del Soho

la barra soho (1)
I actually hate writing negative reviews, but here we go. Stopped in at this brand new bar in Málaga’s Soho barrio. Inside there are only four tables and three were pushed together with a reserved sign on it. The other had two women sitting at it. So I sat at the “bar” (actually a ledge running along the wall) and asked if I could move to the single table when the women left, and was told I could. I ordered a drink and a tapa from the surly barman and a few minutes later when the table became free I was told I couldn’t sit there because suddenly it was reserved too (though it stayed empty for the whole time I was there). Whatever.  I had a couple more tapas and went to the bar to pay. Surly barman turned out to be the owner, and when I told him it cost nothing to smile he got even surlier. Then when I told him the “service” at this establishment made me feel like not coming back he said… “then don’t come back”.  WTF?

So okay, I won’t go back. And I suggest you don’t bother either. Lots of other great places to eat in Málaga where the owners actually care about their clientelle.

Food was standard gastro-bar fare, by the way. Nothing special.

Tomás Heredia, 4
Málaga
Tel 656 42 02 55
€ € €

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Food 5 | Wine 6 | Service 1 | Ambiance 2

la barra soho (3)where I sat

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la barra soho (9)where I didn’t sit

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Óleo

oleo
Óleo is the popular sushi and tapas fusion restaurant attached to the Contemporary Arts Centre in Málaga. The décor is light, open and modern, and includes “bench” seating for some of the tables, as well as an outside terrace. The tapas menu (also available as media raciones) is modest, but includes a good mix of traditional and more innovative dishes, and there are also salads, and meat and fish dishes in larger plates, as well as a range of sushi options, all of excellent quality. Our favourite dish was the jurel ceviche served with lime – a spectacular bite. Service was efficient and friendly, and it’s well worth stopping here as part of your visit to CAC.

Alemania s/n
Contemporary Arts Centre
Málaga
Tel 952 219 062
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

oleo (2)

oleo bravaspatatas bravas with spicy foam

oleo cevichejurel ceviche with lime

oleo prawn rollscrispy soy-marinated prawn rolls

oleo tempura makitempura tuna maki

oleo kebabgoat pinchito with ras el hanout and onion chutney

oleo viet rollsbaby goat Vietnamese roll

oleo (1)

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Sr Lobo Café

Updated September 2015

sr lobo
Although basically a burger and sandwich bar, the recently opened Sr Lobo Cafe is a refreshing change: an independent where the quality of the food is exceptional, and the whole enterprise carried off with such humour and panache. Owner Victor and staff are friendly, welcoming and informative, and this is an important element of what makes this place tick.

The bar is light and open, and the tongue-in-cheek “graffiti” on various sections of the walls is well worth a read. The aforementioned burgers are all made with Retinto beef, a special breed of cow that is native to Cádiz, and are served with very good chips. And aside from the hearty sandwiches, there are salads and snacks such as hummus and nachos. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, be sure to check out the daily specials and lunchtime set menu. It’s a fun spot with a great vibe and has become a must-visit for me.

Somera 10
Málaga
Tel
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

sr lobo (4)

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sr lobo (9)give me the coffee and no one gets hurt

sr lobo victorowner Victor pouring wine

sr lobo tinto limona very generous tinto con limón

sr lobo croquetascroquetas de puchero

sr lobo kevin baconthe Kevin Bacon

sr lobo fetaLondon Burger with hummus, onion, apple, feta cheese

sr lobo picantePicante Pedante with guacamole, red pepper, cheddar and chillis

sr lobo chipotle

Chipotle Burger with crispy onions, tomato, cheddar

sr lobo burger burgerBurger Burger with bacon, cheese, onions and pickle

sr lobo cecina burgerMatadero with manchego cheese, cecina and special mayo

sr lobo bravaspatatas bravas with two sauces (spicy & mild)

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Updated September 2015

Café de Estraperlo

Updated September 2017

On the edge of the artsy Soho barrio and a stone’s throw from the Plaza Marina and Málaga Port, this hip and cosy café-bar in a charming little square couldn’t be in a better location. And since construction was completed last year on the Roommate Valeria next door, the square and terraza are more inviting than ever. Open for breakfast, and then for charcuterie snacks and drinks afternoon and evening, along with cocktails, Café de Estraperlo has that perfect neighbourhood bar feel and it’s one of my favourite places to stop in for a glass of wine and a chat. Rumour has it that tapas may soon be happening. Meanwhile you can enjoy the relaxed vibe and also the local art on the walls, which changes on a regular basis.

Plaza Poeta Alfonso Canales 4
Málaga
Tel
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

estraperlo (2)

cafe estraperlo (2)Beer O’clock!

estraperlo mark joseco-owners Mark & José

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Updated September 2017

Cuchara de Palo

ajonegro

Cuchara de Palo (formerly Ajonegro) is a bit of a walk out from the centre, but it is worth the effort. Located in the NH Hotel, it’s not the sort of place I’d normally be attracted to, but the setting is spacious and bright, with lots of natural light from the massive floor to ceiling windows. There is also a terrace, though it’s on a rather trafficky street.

The menu hasn’t changed much since it changed hands. You can find both tapas and raciones and it’s a nice mix of traditional and fusion (mostly Asian influences). Must tries include the beautiful artichoke “flowers”, which taste as gorgeous as they look, and we also liked the courgette “pasta” with watercress pesto and the grilled presa Ibérica. The wine list is interesting with lots of good options by the glass.

Service was a bit… weird… with the waiter first telling us we couldn’t drink the tap water because it came from the well (huh?) and that we’d have to order mineral water. We didn’t. Though perhaps he was just having a bad day because he seemed to warm up after awhile and get a bit chatty. But really… a smile goes a long way.

Avda Alcalde Álvaro Domecq, 10
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 33 23 71
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

ajonegro bar

cuchara de palo (3)

cuchara de palo (2)

ajonegro artichokesgrilled artichoke flowers with olive oil

cuchara de palo cazoncazón (marinated small shark) in batter

ajonegro burgermini beef burger with bacon

ajonegro chickenpanko breaded chicken with guacamole

cuchara de palo calabacin pastacourgette “pasta” with pancetta, watercress pesto & parmesan

ajonegro prawnsking prawns in tempura with kimchee

cuchara de palo rib stripsstrips of pork ribs with shiitakes and bamboo shoot

cuchara de palo presagrilled presa Ibérica with chips

cuchara de palo (4)

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