Bar Pacos

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Shawn

bar pacos

Bar Pacos (not to be confused with Casa Paco) can be found on the ground floor of the Hotel Puerta de la Luna. The bar is simply decorated, a bit dark but a pleasant enough space with quite a lively atmosphere, particularly for the middle of August.

As is typical in this part of Andalucía drinks came with a complimentary tapita, but less typically you could choose what you wanted from a good-sized courtesy menu (the complimentary tapas shown here were for two people). We had saquitos de bolognese, costillitas de orza (pork preserved in manteca), and chistorras with potatoes and a fried egg, all of which were fabulous. The menu proper was mostly raciones, but some dishes were also available as tapas. We tried a bacalao al ajo arriero (cod with garlic, peppers and onions), which was excellent, and a rather indifferent fried suckling pig. Overall a good eating experience.

Hotel Puerta de la Luna
Canonigo Melgares Raya, 7
Baeza
Tel 953 747 019
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bar pacos frito bolegnese fried filo with bolognese and blue cheese sauce (complimentary)

bar pacos ribs orza pork ribs “de orza” (complimentary)

bar pacos eggs chistorras egg, chistoras & potatoes (complimentary)

bar pacos bacalao arriero bacalao al ajo arriero (peppers, garlic, onions)

bar pacos cochinillo fried cochinillo (baby pork belly)

Puerta de la Victoria

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

puerta victoria
This relatively new bar a minute’s walk from the main square was recommended to us by Juan Hidalgo during our visit to the bodega, and turned out to be the best food experience of our Sanlúcar break. The bar is traditionally styled with lots of wood, sherry casks and shelves full of glasses and bottles, but doesn’t go overboard with the “fake antique” look, and there’s a little terrace in the pedestrian street outside, which was very pleasant on a relatively mild summer’s day.

There’s a nicely balanced menu with tapas ranging from 2 – 3.5€ (with one exception – a splendid stuffed & fried choco al amontillado for 4.50€). And I dare say that the tortillitas de camarones are every bit as good as at the better-known Casa Balbino around the corner. I’d like to go back with more friends to try some of the raciones (larger plates). Very good wine list with lots of options by the glass.

Calle de la Victoria, 7
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 365 925
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

puerta victoria (3)

puerta victoria jamon queso jamón Ibérico and Payoyo cheese

salpicón de mariscos

puerta victoria tortillita tortillita de camarones (prawn fritters)

puerta victoria tortillita art tortillita art

chocos fritos

puerta victoria (8) carrillada (Iberian pork cheek)

puerta victoria choco amontillado choco frito al amontillado with jamón and fried egg

puerta victoria bar

Updated August 2018

Casa Balbino

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

Casa Balbino could lay a very reasonable claim to being the best known bar in the centre of Sanlúcar, its fame due in part to its prime location on the pretty main town square, its age, and its reputation of being the place that all visitors have to go to at least once. I’m not sure that it quite lives up to the hype, but its still a very typical bar in a prime location, with reliably good food. It’s been going strong since founder Balbino Izquierdo Aldea arrived in 1924 and joined the staff of a small ultramarinos (grocer/corner shop), became its proprietor, and extended the business by opening a bar in the adjoining property. More recently it has also extended into Plaza de Victoria with a separate location that shares the same kitchen.

The bar is actually quite large, half essentially stand-at-the-bar or at the small shelves along the walls, the other half with about eight or nine tall tables with seating. Decor is dozens of old framed photos, mainly of bullfighting or scenes of the old town. The signature dish is undoubtedly the tortillita de camarones (shrimp fritter), and the menu is heavily biased towards local fish and seafood. And yes, you probably should come here at least once while you’re in Sanlúcar. But check the seafood prices before ordering… those large prawns can end up costing about 4€ each. Also be aware that it’s all self-service and the place can get crazy busy, so you’ll have to be very proactive about getting your food and drink. But the barmen are very friendly and helpful and, if you give them a wave, they will come over to refill your sherry glass.

Plaza del Cabildo, 14
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 36 05 13
€ € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

balbino (15)
balbino self service
balbino tortillitas tortillitas de camarones (prawn fritters)

tortillita perfection

balbino croquetas croquetas de merluza (hake)

balbino aubergine prawns wrapped in aubergine

presa Ibérica

balbino pincho moruno pincho moruno (lamb kebab)

breaded cuttlefish

balbino langostinos langoustinos – 4€ each!

balbino chistorras chistorras (spicy chorizos)

balbino gambas al ajillo gambas al ajillo

pork meatballs in tomato sauce

balbino (16)

balbino (14)

Updated August 2018

Taberna Der Guerrita

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2018

Taberna Der Guerrita came highly recommended as one of *the* bars to check out in Sanlúcar. The bar is rather nice, pleasantly rustic without overdoing it, and with a local neighbourhood feel. The tapas menu is modest in size – be sure to have the mojama (air-dried tuna), some of the best I’ve had anywhere. And as you might imagine, there was a very good wine list with many good by-the-glass options at very reasonable prices.

Der Guerrita is well known for its “sacristy” (in the sherry world a section of a bodega used for special wines), a room/shop adjacent to the bar used for holding catas (wine tastings) hosted by owner Armando Guerra.

Calle San Salvador, 34
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 697 826 096
€ € €

Food 5 | Wine 8 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

guerrita bar

guerrita mojama mojama (air-dried tuna)

pan-fried butifarra

guerrita carne salsa pork in sauce

guerrita champis jamon mushrooms filled with bacon

pincho moruno

gambas al ajillo

guerrita wine tasting

guerrita nook

Updated August 2018

Bar Navarro

Posted on September 14, 2014 by Shawn

navarro

Bar Navarro was recommended by many as an absolute must-go-to fried fish place with the best acedias (small sole) in the universe. Possibly such high praise contributed to a degree of disappointment by raising unrealistic expectations. The bar itself was a rather ordinary neighbourhood bar just outside the old town, and nothing wrong with that per se, but they could at least have cleared away the detritus of earlier meals from the next tables. Also, serving the manzanilla a plastic “jerry-can” might be quaint, but to me it just added to the can’t-be-bothered ambiance. There’s a bar section with a few tall tables along one side of the L-shaped space and a “dining” area in the other. It’s all self-service.

So we had to try the acedias, of course, and they were actually quite good, though not especially special. The chocos were tough and chewy – I would’ve sent them back but didn’t get the sense that the barman cared that much. We also had the tapaculos (a flat fish similar to sole), which were delicioius – I would definitely have again if I came back. Authentic? Yes, I suppose so, whatever exactly that means. Not sure that’s quite enough though.

Menacho 28
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel
€ €

Food 5 | Wine 4 | Service 4 | Ambiance 4

navarro bar the bar

navarro acedias acedias (small sole)

navarro chocos chocos (cuttlefish)

navarro tapaculos tapaculos (curiously translates as “butt plug”)

navarro dining room “dining” area

Bar Arturo

Posted on August 28, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2015

Bar Arturo is your typical no-frills, family-run biz, with paper table cloths and kitch decor (intentional or otherwise). It will no doubt be busy when you arrive, with a varied clientele of families, couples and groups of friends.

I have been in love with this place since I was first directed to it last year, and have been back a couple of times since then. But my last visit was marred – in fact ruined – by some of the worst service I’ve ever experienced. We were actually shocked when the manager told us off for politely asking if we’d been given the correct order (still convinced we hadn’t been). And the rudeness continued until we finally gave up and left. Very sad and unfortunate when something like this happens. I won’t be back.

Guita 9
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 33 00 12
€ € €

Food 7 | Wine 6 | Service 1 | Ambiance 7

bar arturo back dining area in front of the bar

bar arturo bar
bar arturo tomatoes
tomatoes with garlic, evoo, salt

bar arturo gambas al ajillo gambas al ajillo

calamares & sea bass

bar arturo mystery fish fried tuna ventresca? with fins attached?

bar arturo fritura fried fish selection: hake, cuttlefish, red mullet, cuttlefish, john dory

fried prawns

bar arturo shells

bar arturo sign

bar arturo front

La Cruz Blanca

Posted on August 28, 2014 by Shawn

Updated June 2016

One of Jerez’s best-loved tapas bars, La Cruz Blanca is located on the corner of Calle Consistorio and Plaza de la Yerba in the heart of the old city. It consists of a bar area with a couple of tables in the front, two dining rooms in the back, and a large and busy terrace in the Plaza. Although the bar has existed since the early 20^th century, it ceased trading for several years before the current owners purchased and refurbished it in 2005. Decoration is fairly minimalist, but pleasant, and the food a mix of traditional and more modern fare, available either as tapas or full or media raciónes. There’s a good selection of wines by the glass, including sherries of course. Only complaint is that service can sometimes be slow, especially out on the terrace, so don’t go if you’re in a hurry. And be sure to ask for the “off the menu” specials of the day.

Consistorio, 16
Tel 956 32 45 35
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

cruz blanca croquetas (2) prawn, leek and wakame croquettes

cruz blanca tuna chicharrones red tuna chicharrones

cruz blanca salad mixed salad

cruz blanca (2) breaded chocos (cuttlefish)

cruz blanca buñuelos bacalao fritters over roasted peppers

cruz blanca huevos rotos fried egg with artichokes and jamón

cruz blanca arroz negro arroz negro with strips of chocos

cruz blanca berenjenaas sea bass in tempura with piquillo sauce

cruz blanca carrillada carrillada Ibérica

cruz blanca presa grilled presa Ibérica with chips

cruz blanca presa jamon salmorejo grilled presa with jamón and salmorejo

Updated June 2016

Bar Juanito

Posted on August 26, 2014 by Shawn

bar juanito terrace

Bar Juanito seems to figure on every list of bars to go to in Jerez, largely I think because it’s been around for over 70 years, is very typical, and it’s in a good location in the centre. There’s a small bar section when you walk in and a big dining area in a pleasant covered patio just beyond. Outside are several tables on the terrace, so lots of seating options.

I’ve been here twice, only stopping each time for a couple of tapas, but wasn’t overly impressed on either occasion. The signature artichoke dish was a bit tough and stringy, and the venison “bric”, while nice enough, could have been filled with almost anything. Nice fried cuttlefish, okay meatballs. Overall, it simply failed to make any deep impression. Nothing wrong with the place, just nothing that stood out as special. Service is very good.

Calle de Pescadería Vieja, 8
Tel 956 34 12 18
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 5 | Service 7 | Ambiance 5

bar juanito ensaladilla complimentary ensaladilla starter

bar juanito artichokes stewed artichokes with jamón

bar juanito venado bric bric pastry filled with venison

bar juanito chocos crispy fried chocos

bar juanito meatballs meatballs

El Almacén Vinos & Tapas

Posted on August 26, 2014 by Shawn

Updated August 2015

el almacen

El Almacén Vinos & Tapas is located in the center of town in a refurbished 18th century building that once housed a tradition grocery warehouse (almacén). A rather trendy, faux traditional bar, but despite that I liked the appearance of the place with its wooden beams, demi-john lights, antiqueish furniture and bric-a-brac. And it’s big, with 150 square metres divided into smaller dining spaces. My favourite place is sitting in front of the 15-metre original wood bar, but you can also opt for the terrace if you prefer sitting outside.

As the name suggests, wines feature prominently here and they specialise in local Cádiz wines, including a wide selection of sherries. There are a few tapas on the menu, but it’s mostly raciones (larger plates). Service could be improved – ie, make your clients feel welcome. But overall it’s an okay place to stop in for a drink and a snack.

Calle Latorre 6
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 8 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

el almacen (6)

el almacen (1)
el almacen (3)

el almacen prawns prawn skewers with avocado dip

el almacen lomo jerez lomo al Jerez on toast with PX reduction

el almacen cod fritters salt cod fritters with wasabi mayo

el almacen secreto grilled secreto Ibérico with fresh tomato and jamón

el almacen (4)

el almacen (5)

el almacen (7)

Updated August 2015

Ajonegro

Posted on August 26, 2014 by Shawn

ajonegro

I’ve been to Ajonegro twice now. First time was just over a year ago when I was attending a special sherry event and invited there for lunch (in a small group) by one of the bodegas. And it was fabulous! But of course I did wonder if it would be as good if I just went on my own without any “VIP treatment”. So on a recent visit to Jerez I stopped in with a friend to try some of their tapas, secretly pleased that the owner wasn’t there. But I needn’t have worried because we had very good service from one of the young waiters and the food was excellent. I’ve included photos of dishes from both visits below.

Ajoblanco is a bit of a walk out from the centre, but it is worth the effort. It’s a relatively new bar in a modern building across the avenue from the Sherry Park hotel. The setting is spacious and bright, with lots of natural light from the massive floor to ceiling windows. There is also a terrace, though it’s on a rather trafficky street.

The menu has both tapas and raciones and is a nice mix of traditional and fusion (mostly Asian influences). Must tries include the beautiful artichoke “flowers”, which taste as gorgeous as they look, and I was particularly surprised by the chicharrones de Chiclana, with payoyo cheese and tomato pesto. A simply amazing combination. We also liked the marinated chicken in panko with guacamole, but the mini beefburger with bacon was pretty much just a mini-burger. The grilled presa Ibérica (not a tapa) is also excellent.