Arxiduna

Updated September 2017

Located in Spain’s only octagonal square, Arxiduna is made even more unique by its natural cave dining areas, which were once used as a Mozárabe church and have been declared a Heritage site by the Andalucía government. There are three such dining areas inside along with a cosy bar area, and a spacious terrace with lovely views out in the square.

The first time I visited I was there on my own, and the chef kindly offered to create a tasting menu of some of his favourite dishes so I could try a few different things. This took me into a world of fusion food that was all very good (even – surprisingly – the tuna with chocolate!) but for my personal taste there were a few too many sauces. Simpler dishes like the calamar bocata and the grilled abanico (pork) worked best for me. More recently I visited with friends and we were able to try more dishes between us. I definitely recommend you stop in when you’re in Archidona – great atmosphere, fab staff, and a menu that has something for everyone.

Plaza Ochavada de Andalucía, 7
Archidona
Tel 658 77 03 46
€ € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

arxiduna barthe bar

arxiduna ceiling

porra with purple carrot crumble, olive oil foam, tomato

arxiduna pringapringá “sabor a madre”

arxiduna mini burgerswhack of mini burgers

arxiduna boquerones in pastryboquerones in flaky pastry

arxiduna bbq ribsBBQ’d pork ribs

chargrilled octopus with guacamole and oyster sauce

arxiduna mackerel tunamackerel with pickled veg and tuna in dark chocolate

grilled sea bass with fresh grilled veg and berberecho sauce

arxiduna chicken pastelmoroccan chicken pastela with dried fruit and apple sauce

arxiduna bocata calamarbocata de calamares on a squid ink bun with mustard alioli

chicken curry risotto with coconut milk and parmesan,
served in a beef bone

arxiduna abanicoputaitas (abanico Ibérico) with peppers, mango and black garlic

grilled presa Ibérica with mojo picón

arxiduna choc vanvanilla and chocolate coulantes with berries

arxiduna coffee

arxiduna open kitchenopen kitchen with charcoal grill

Team Arxiduna

arxiduna caving dining areaone of the cave dining rooms

arxiduna terrace viewterrace view

arxiduna sign

Back to Top

orange orange orange orange

Updated September 2017

Rincón de Lola

Updated November 2016
rincon lola

A very typical tapas bar by the Coso Viejo, with a terrace in the square itself. The food was good but not outstanding (though we quite liked the “matrimonio” and the grilled presa). The service was a bit patchy, but it seems to be a popular spot with locals (Lola greeted almost everyone by name). Prices are reasonable – most tapas cost about 2.50€ – but the wine I had was a whopping 3€ per glass for a fairly standard rueda.

Encarnación, 8
Antequera
Tel 625 040 997
€ € €

orange orange orange
Food 6 | Wine 5 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6

rincon lola matrimonio“matrimonio” – Cantabrian anchovy and boquerón en vinagre

rincon lola hotdoggrilled hotdog with pear alioli and tomato jam

rincon-lola-champigrilled mushrooms with jamón

rincon lola flamenquinavocado filled flamenquín

rincon-lola-rosadabreaded rosada

rincon-lola-presagrilled presa Ibérica

rincon lola bar

Back to Top

orange orange orange

Updated November 2016

Arte de Tapas

Updated November  2016
arte tapas

Just next to the Arte de Cozina restaurant, Arte de Tapas is actually a part of this authentically rustic old townhouse, which includes a guesthouse that has been lovingly restored. The theme of maintaining tradition also applies to the food (which is excellent), the menu including a number of dishes/recipes from medieval times, executed with love and care by chef Charo Carmona.

Every new visit here leaves me just as happy with both the food and the service as on previous visits. To me this is THE place to go for tapas in Antequera. Be sure to try the croquetas and breaded rabbit ribs. But DO NOT LEAVE without having the lomo de orza (cooked pork loin preserved in lard) that is served on garlicky confit potatoes, on toast – serious porky heaven. Desserts are also interesting (and that’s me saying it) and you will no doubt be given a recipe or two to take home with you.

Calle de la Calzada, 29

Tel 952 840 014
Arte de Cozina Website
€ € € €

orange orange orange orange orange
Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

arte tapas bar
arte tapas tall tables

arte tapas sardines escabechesardines in escabeche

arte tapas cheesegoat cheese with tomato jam

arte-tapas-lomo-sallomo a la sal with rosemary, poppyseeds, potato parmentier

arte tapas spinach pinenutsspinach and pinenut croquetas

arte tapas chorizochorizo croquetas

arte-tapas-croquetas-setascroquetas de setas with beetroot mayo

arte tapas rabbit ribsbreaded rabbit ribs

arte tapas meatballshomemade meatballs in saffron sauce

arte tapas langostino threadsslarge prawns wrapped in skinny noodles

arte tapas bravaspapas bravas

arte-tapas-papas-payoyopapas with payoyo cheese

arte tapas fried fishbattered fried fish

arte tapas morcilla tartaremorcilla tartare with apple, served with mango-mustard sauce

arte-tapas-salchichon-burgersalchichón burger with spicy tomato sauce

arte tapas chorizo burgerchorizo burger

arte tapas lomo orzalomo de orza on confit potatoes and toast

arte-tapas-chorizo-espetochorizo espeto with PX

arte tapas lemonyfrothy lemony foam dessert

arte tapas drunken bizcochodrunken bizcocho

arte tapas almojabana

almojábana (a dessert from medieval times)

arte tapas almojabana recipethe recipe for almojábana

arte tapas charo carmonaowner and chef Charo Carmona

arte tapas seating

Back to Top

orange orange orange orange orange
Updated November 2016

A La Fuerza

a la fuerza

Calle de la Alameda de Andalucia, 32
Antequera
Tel 952 841 607
€ € €

orange orange orange
Food 5 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

This was something of a tale of two visits. On my first morning in Antequera, arriving on an early train from Sevilla with a friend, we came here for breakfast as it came highly recommended by my Twitter pals @PolloyEnsalada.  And we weren’t disappointed. This seems to be their forte, the place was busy, and we had one of those great typical Andalusian breakfasts – traditional Antequera molletes with serrano ham, olive oil and tomato, and a “tapa” of churros with hot chocolate (love that in this part of the country you order churros by the “circle”).

On the second evening we came back for tapas, with mixed results. The tapas menu was, shall we say, limited, and even some of those were not available. Then our first order of “secreto al ajillo” was so bad it had to be sent back, and we were debating whether to stay. Full marks at this point to the waiter, who persuaded us to try the gambas al ajillo (actually langostinos), which turned out to be very good, and they also made my friend a nice bocadillo for his journey home that night.

a la fuerza entrance

a la fuerza churrostwo rondas of churros

a la fuerza jamon tostadamollete with (lots of!) serrano ham and tomato

a la fuerza barthe bar

a la fuerza secretosecreto al ajillo – as disgusting as it looks

a la fuerza langostinossizzling king prawns al ajillo – much better

a la fuerza terraza

Back to Top

orange orange orange

Cumbres Mayores

Updated March 2019

cumbres_mayores

Trust me to go to a Spanish coastal city famous for its fabulous seafood and end up loving this place for its amazing MEAT dishes. One of the best known and most popular bars in Cádiz, Cumbres Mayores, just off the Plaza Mina, is traditional in both style and cuisine, but with more meat and less fish than is typical in Cádiz. It’s all about the pig here, and often unusual cuts (see “pig parts” photo below). We stop in as often as possible during our visits to Cádiz and we are never disappointed. In fact, I wish somewhere like Cumbres Mayores existed in Sevilla.

Aside from the cosy tapas bar area that greets you when you walk in, there are also a couple of dining rooms for sit-down meals, but my favourite place is at the bar, preferably in front of the jamón leg beer taps. It’s often super-crowded but just grab a drink and hang around awhile and you’ll usually be rewarded with a couple of bar seats. The tapas are very good and very reasonably priced, and the service is terrific. Favourites included the pork abanico Ibérico in PX sauce, which is honestly worth going to Cádiz for, grilled secreto (you can also get it breaded and deep-fried!) and the presa al ajillo. They also offer a special parrillada para dos (grilled meat for two) but I think it’s more fun to just order the tapas and share them with a friend.

Zorrilla, 4
Cádiz
Tel 956 21 32 70
€ € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

cumbres mayores bar

cumbres mayores jamoes

cumbres mayores (10)stewed pluma Ibérica

cumbres mayores carrillada

carrillada Ibérica (pork cheeks)

cumbres mayores churrascochurrasco a la parrilla

cumbres mayores criollogrilled chorizo criollo

cumbres mayores secretosecreto Ibérico

breaded secreto Ibérico

cumres mayores presagarlicky grilled presa Ibérica

albóndigas en salsa

cumbres mayores pork tonguestewed pork tongue

cumbres mayores flamenquinflamenquín

grilled paleta Ibérica

tender stewed abanico Ibérico in PX sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

cumbres mayores beerAlfonso pouring beers

cumbres mayores bar areabar area

cumbres mayores diningdining area

cumbres mayores pig partspig parts

cumbres mayoresBest. Beertaps. Ever.

cumbres mayores tiles

orange orange orange orange
Updated March 2019

Taberna La Manzanilla

Updated March 2019

la manzanilla

Taberna La Manzanilla is a sherry bar, pure and simple, dedicated to the promotion of these local Cádiz wines, with a range of manzanillas, amontillados and olorosos (from Bodegas Delgado Zuleta in Sanlúcar de Barrameda) poured straight from the barrel. Founded in the early twentieth century as both a wholesale and retail operation, the taberna is now run by Pepe, the third generation of the García family, and still retains many of its original furnishings, maintained in perfect condition. Wonderful ambiance and a great place to start your tapeo.

Feduchy 19
Cádiz
Tel 956 28 54 01
€ € €
La Manzanilla Website

orange orange orange orange orange
Wine 9 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la manzanilla bar

la manzanilla amontillado manzanillaamontillado and manzanilla fina

la manzanilla olorososolorosos

la manzanilla back room (1)

la manzanilla back room (2)

la manzanilla barrels

la manzanilla bottles

amontillado fino

la manzanilla 1744

owner Pepe

la manzanilla venenciadorvenenciador

la manzanilla delgado zuleta

orange orange orange orange
Updated March 2019

La Sorpresa

Updated March 2019

La Sorpresa, a few minutes away from the central market, is a small abacería (a shop selling mainly traditional specialties) and tapas bar, with the emphasis on jamón Ibérico, tuna almadraba (the eco-friendly sustainable seasonal catch off the coast of Cádiz) and sherry, here supplied by Bodegas Delgado Zuleta, with the casks making a “wall” between the bar and the back room. A nice unpretentious local to stop in for a few starters at the beginning of your tapeo.

Arbolí 4
Cádiz
Tel 956 221 232
€ € €

orange orange orange
Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 7| Ambiance 7


la sorpresa oloroso

Delgado Zuleta oloroso

la sorpresa jamon anchoaCantabrian anchovy and jamón Iberico

la sorpresa menuchalkboard menu

la sorpresa window

Andreea, Soraya & Ana

orange orange orange
Updated March 2019

La Candela

Updated July 2017

My first impression of La Candela a few years ago was “gastrobar” (and I am never being kind when I use that term), but once inside I was pleasantly surprised. The atmosphere is friendly and informal, and the food, a modern but not pretentious menu, is generally very good. On subsequent visits I’ve been pleased to see that things hadn’t changed in that respect.

Try the chicharrones de Cádiz (very different from the usual deep-fried version) and also the croquetas and tempura vegetables.  As an unusual touch, if you like the furniture or the paintings you can buy them.

Feduchy 1
Cádiz
Tel 956 22 18 22
€ € €

orange orange orange orange
Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

la candela entradaentrance

la candela kitchenopen kitchen

la candela croquetasjamón and setas croquetas

tuna tempura with tomato, parmesan & oregano sauce

la candela chicharroneschicharrones de Cádiz with cheese and sun-dried tomatoes

mixed green salad with tempura sardines, parmesan,
toasted hazelnuts,honey vinaigrette

la candela veggie tempuraveggie tempura with soy mayo

la candela pulporoasted pulpo with pimentón mashed potatoes and squid ink alioli

wagyu burger

la candela beefgrilled beef platter

Santiago, Pejie, co-owneres Carmen & Victor, Carmen, Lourdes

la candela window seatwindow seat

la candela dining areadining area

la candela diners Sunday diners

orange orange orange orange
Updated July 2017

Cafe Royalty

Updated July 2017

cafe royalty (1)Over the years Cafe Royalty has become our official merienda (a kind of Spanish High Tea) stop for coffee, dessert and cocktails. The Royalty is certainly unique, describing itself as the only historically preserved grand romantic café in Andalucia, and with its ornate gilt plasterwork, painted ceilings and early 20th century furnishings it looks the part, and would not be out of place in Paris or Vienna.

The original café opened its doors in 1912 in celebration of the centenary of the Cadiz Cortes and the first Spanish constitution, and was a popular meeting place of local high society, artists and intellectuals until it closed its doors in the early 1930s. After being a warehouse and bazaar it was finally acquired by the De la Sema family in 2008, and lovingly restored to its former glory, re-opening in 2012, the centenary of the first Royalty.

The Royalty also do tapas and have a full restaurant menu, but for me it’s a spot to while away an hour or so late afternoon. Be sure to try the picatostas gaditanos, a traditional dessert made by soaking chunks of bread in milk, then deep-frying them. They are served warm with a dusting of icing sugar – delicious!

Plaza Candelaria
Cádiz
Tel 956 07 80 65

orange orange orange orange
Food | Wine 8 | Service 8| Ambiance 8

 cafe royalty chandelier

cafe royalty (2)

cafe royalty strudelapple strudel with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream

picatostes gaditanos – a house speciality

cafe royalty ceiling

cafe royalty (6)

cafe royalty (7)

 cava “benjamín”

Irish coffees

cafe royalty (5)massive G & T

cafe royalty mirror

orange orange orange orange
Updated July 2017

El Yerno

el yerno El Yerno is the “new kid on the block” in Málaga’s central market and offers much the same fare as the long-standing Café-Bar Atarazanas. The main differences are that it also has a few meat options as well as a few more wines by the glass. The grilled prawns are lovely, as are the boquerones al limón (my favourite way to eat them, cleaned and then marinated in lemon before deep-frying, so no pesky bones). I guess time will tell if it becomes as popular as its neighbour at the other end of the hall.

Mercado de Atarazanas
Atarazanas, 10
Málaga
Open: 9.00 – 15.00 Monday – Saturday
€ €

orange orange orange

el yerno (7)grilled prawns

el yerno clamsclams in garlic and olive oil

el yerno boquerones limonboquerones al limón

el yerno lamblamb moruno

el yerno chistorrachistorra onna stick

el yerno salmonetessalmonetes (red mullet)

el yerno chicken lamb

el yerno cigalas

atarazanas bar stained glass