El Churrasco

Updated February 2017

el churrasco (1)

El Churrasco was founded by Rafael Carrillo senior and his wife Mari in 1970 as a small mesón specialising in grilled meats with two typical “mojo”-style red and green sauces. It’s come a long way since then, expanding into two patios, a main dining room and tapas area upstairs, and a number of private lounges in different styles. The menu has expanded too, with a few tapas, and a full range of fish, seafood and vegetable dishes, though the original grilled meat and Arabic sauces are still the speciality of the house. The largest dining room is the traditional Cordobés patio on the ground floor, and there are two more dining rooms upstairs, including a patio with a fruiting lemon tree.

The bar area at the front is my favourite place for tapas, with exposed brick pillars and arches, wood beams and tile floors, and fridges displaying the day’s meat and fish selections. It’s also fun to watch the chef in action in front of the grills. Would really like to go back sometime with a small group of friends and do a full-on meat feast.

Romero 16
Córdoba
Tel 957 290 819
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

el churrasco atriumel churrasco barthe bar
el churrasco berenjenasfried aubergines with salmorejo and jamón

flamenquín cordobés

el churrasco chorizo grilled chorizo

el churrasco sardinasmoked sardine on toast with guacamole and tomato jam glaze

lomo de orza

el churrasco dining area

el churrasco meatMEAT

rabos de lagartija (“lizard tails” really pork strips in sauce)

el churrasco lamb chops

 lamb chops

el churrasco menu

el churrasco salsas

 las salsas

el churrasco solomillogrilled solomillo

grilled presa Ibérica

el churrasco view to kitchn view into open kitchen

el churrasco nooknook

el churrasco tapas areaupstairs tapas area

el churrasco outside

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Updated February 2017

Cafe-Bar Mercado Atarazanas

Updated July 2016

 atarazanas cafe barMarket bars are some of my favourite places to eat and the Atarazanas Market in central Málaga is one of my favourite markets. So if you’re walking around town midday and looking for a snack – or even a full lunch – then this is a great place to go. Café-Bar Mercado Atarazanas was the original market bar here and, what started as one small stall years ago, has been expanded with the addition of a couple of extra stalls in front, as well as a few tables outside. But the quality of the food remains the same, which is Very Very Good and also excellent value for money.

It’s all very no-frills as you’d expect, but there’s just something so charming about it, along with the super fast and friendly service, that makes me not very interested in going back to the other newcomer market bars (though I have been to them just to compare). Honestly, if I lived in Málaga I’d be tempted to have lunch here every day. Brochettes of prawns and octopus, perfectly grilled and sprinkled with smoked paprika, crispy-fried lemon-marinated boquerones, breaded or battered prawns, grilled hake, marinated dogfish… and the list goes on, and on. All super-fresh, all made to order, all of it wonderful. And if you are concerned about getting your 5-a-day they also do a tasty plate of tempura mixed veggies. Good ice cold beer and decent wines too.

Mercado de Atarazanas
Atarazanas, 10
Málaga
Open: 9.00 – 15.00 Monday – Saturday
€ €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

atarazanas bar pulpogrilled octopus
atarazanas prawngrilled prawns with paprika

atarazanas salmon prawngrilled prawns with salmon

atarazanas bar breaded prawnsfried breaded prawns

atarazanas bar calamaricalamari

atarazanas artichokesfried artichokes

atarazanas teamsome of the Atarazanas team

atarazanas bar cazoncazón en adobo (dogfish, known as pintaroja in Málaga)

atarazanas veggiescrispy fried veggies

IMG_2087boquerones al limón

atarazanas bar pulpo tunagrilled red tuna and octopus with alioli toasts

atarazanas bar (10)buzzy market bar atmosphere

atarazanas victorowner Victor
atarazanas bar stained glass

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Updated July 2016

Pez Tomillo

Updated January 2014

pez tomillo terraza

Imagine my surprise when I discovered last summer that Pez Tomillo is part of the Equipo Mpuntor group from Sevilla! I went back again on a recent visit to Málaga and remain impressed with the quality of the food and wine and also the service.  And of course the restaurant space is fabulous, with the same fun retro-stylish décor that Mpuntor has become known for. There’s a charming covered terrace out front and an ample bar and dining area as you enter, with lots of comfortable seating. The rooftop is open in the evenings and is both restaurant and cocktail bar, offering a lovely seaview. I also like the spacious open kitchen where you can see your food being prepared.

The menu is pretty much the same as at chef Ernesto Malasaña’s cool and eclectic Bar Antojo in Sevilla. I actually think this is a good idea for this barrio as Pedregalejo already has a lot typical seafood restaurants and, especially for those who live out there, I can imagine Pez Tomillo being a welcome change. Both tapas and racións are available for most dishes. The bacalao “al carbón” is tasty plump salt cod in squid ink tempura, the stewed bulltail with creamy potatoes is super-tender, and the eggs with foie and fried potatoes is seriously decadent. There’s a very nice wine list and the very professional service provided by the young and enthusiastic staff is delightful and unstuffy.

From the centre of Málaga you can get to Pedregalejo by catching the Nº 11 city bus, taking a taxi or, as I did, enjoy a 40-minute walk along the seaside promenade (but watch out for speeding cyclists!).

Bread/Service Charge: 1€ PER PERSON

Paseo de Pedregal 1
Málaga
Tel 951 253 627
Open: 12.30 – 2.00
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

pez tomillo terraza 1the terrace

pez tomillo barthe bar

pez tomillo open kitchenopen kitchen

pez tomillo gambas pilpilgambas pil-pil

pez tomillo bacalao carbonbacalao “al carbón” (salt cod in squid ink tempura)

pez tomillo cola del torostewed bulltail with creamy potato purée

pez tomillo huevos rotos foiefried free-range eggs with potatoes and grilled foie

pez tomillo dumplingsdumplings with sweet chili sauce

pez tomillo pollolagramitas de pollo with barbeque sauce

pez tomillo coulantechocolate coulante with white chocolate ice cream

pez tomillo terraza 2

pez tomillo rooftop barrooftop bar and restaurant

pez tomillo rooftop view
Updated January 2014

Alumbre

alumbre
Another great recommendation from a friend. I may not have gone into Alumbre otherwise, fearing it might be your typical “gastrobar”, but in fact it’s a charming spot with very friendly professional service and some lovely tapas ranging from 1.50 – 2.50€. Tapas are served in the front section; there’s a separate “raciones” menu for the terrace and dining area, which are also very reasonably priced. Looking forward to going back with friends next visit to Málaga to share some larger plates.

Strachan 11
Málaga
Tel 952 640 108 / 951 500 02
Open 12.00 – midnight (closed Sunday)
Alumbre Website
€ € €

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 alumbre (3)

alumbre jamon

alumbre (4)

alumbre olives

alumbre spring rolls prawn and seta springroll with kikoman soy reduction

 alumbre tortillita salchichonsalchicha de Málaga fritter

 alumbre albondiga almond saucepork meatball with almond sauce

 alumbre (2)dining area with open kitchen

El Mesón de Cervantes

Updated February 2015

meson cervantes
El Mesón de Cervantes is just around the corner from its hugely successful sister bar El Tapeo de Cervantes. This new location is bigger and more stylish than the original location, with a bar area in the front for tapas and two dining areas for larger plates (raciones), though the menu and wine list are pretty much the same. Nice open kitchen and attractive space, though service can be a bit slapdash. Be sure to check out the daily specials.

Alamos 11
Málaga
Tel. 952 216 274
El Tapeo de Cervantes Website
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

meson cervantes barthe bar

meson cervantes dining areadining area

meson cervantes wine oliveswine and olives at the bar

meson cervantes spinach saladspinach salad with shaved manchego cheese and walnuts

meson cervantes pulpogrilled octopus with fideos and romescu sauce

meson cervantes pumpkin risottopumpkin & duck risotto

meson cervantes flamenquinflamenquín

meson cervantes meatballsmeatballs in tomato sauce

meson cervantes secretogrilled secreto with pumpkin and pineapple jam

meson cervantes bacalao with orange confit and spicy tomatobacalao with orange confit and spicy tomato

meson cervantes gambasbattered prawns

meson cervantes salmongrilled salmon with herb butter, garbanzo puree and black rice

meson cervantes dining area 2dining area

meson cervantes nookcosy nook

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Updated February 2015

El Refectorium Catedral

Updated July 2016

refectorium catedral

This sister bar of the El Refectorium Malagueta couldn’t be more different in style, but happily it has many of the same dishes from the original menu. El Refectorium Catedral is all chic minimalist elegance – designed by Jean-Claude Schmidt and Rafael Raez Ariza – with a lovely curved wall of windows that lets in lots of natual light. Service is professional and refreshingly unstuffy.

For me a visit to Málaga isn’t complete without at least one stop-in here. You can get the tapas menu at the bar, raciones at the tables. A couple of the many must-try dishes: the super tender slow-chargrilled octopus and the langoustine and jamón brochette. Also make sure to ask about the daily specials. Excellent wines by the glass and I think on par good value for money.

Calle Postigo de los Abades, 4
Málaga
Tel. 952 602 389
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

refectorium cathedral entrance

refectorium catedral boqueronesboquerones al vinagre – lots of them!

IMG_4331cheese!

IMG_4326caña de lomo

 refectorium catedral bolosbolos (a type of clam served live with a squeeze of lemon)

IMG_4346salmorejo with jamón and egg

refectorium catedral conchas finasconchas finas

refectorium catedral ensaladillaensaladilla with tuna

refectorium habasbroad beans and jamón with fried egg

IMG_4342white asparagus

refectorium cathedral lamblamb pinchito with chips

refectorium catedral ligeritasligeritas: pringá, secreto serranito, solomillo & seta (and cheese)

refectorium cathedral langoustin jamonlangoustine and jamón brochette

refectorium flamenquinflamenquín

refectorium cathedral padronpimientos de padrón

refectorium catedral chistorrasgrilled chistorras with chips

refectorium catedral artichokesgrilled artichokes with jamón

refectorium catedral coquinascoquinas (small wedge clams in olive oil, white wine and garlic)

refectorium catedral musselsmussels al ajillo

refectorium catedral pulposlow-chargrilled octopus with smoked paprika

refectorium cathedral albondigonbeef albondigones (BIG meatballs)

refectorium catedral green beans jamongreen beans with jamón

refectorium catedral presa ibericagrilled presa Ibérica

refectorium berenjenasfried aubergine with salmorejo

IMG_4363grilled squid and veg

refectorium catedral calamaritoscalamaritos fritos (tiny squid in batter)

refectorium catedral boletusboletus mushrooms with jamón

refectorium catedral equipoHoracio, Victor, María, Abelardo, Paco & Julio (Tío Pollas)

refectorium catedral dining

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Updated July 2016

Dom Vinos

Dom Vinos is no more but you can find Antonio working his magic at Eboka

domvinos

Dom Vinos specialises in wine tastings and pairing menus, with an impressive listing of over 140 wines and premium spirits (the wine list changes monthly).  But you can also just stop in for a few tapas – be sure to check out the daily specials. It’s also a good idea to call ahead to book in case there is a special event going on.

My first (quick) visit here was back in December 2012 with a friend visiting from New Zealand – our snacks were delish and we loved the casual ambiance and the attentive service. My second visit was a bit more “intense” and Antonio was very happy to set us up with a fab tasting menu paired with some pretty damn fine sherrys. I am always impressed by how passionate Antonio is about sharing his knowledge of food and wine and what a welcoming and generous host he is. Another Dom Vinos lunch with travel writer friend Andrew Forbes (who was also inspired to write about our experience) convinced me that this is a place with consistently excellent wine, food and service. These days a trip to Málaga isn’t complete without a visit to Dom Vinos.

Delightful desserts are by local pastry chef María García ( Candy’s) and crazy good cocktails are creatively prepared by Jesús García Recaj.

Toquero 1
Málaga
Tel 666 330 336
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

dom vinos reserved
dom vinos (5)

IMG_2997award-winning ecological olive oil from Antequera
served with hot toasted rolls

IMG_3002porra Antequera with jamón and sea urchin

dom vinos ajoblancoajoblanco with “Málaga ice cream”
(raisins, almonds, rum)

dom vinos pringaspringá montaditos with cocido

dom vinos jamonjamón Ibérico & La Goya manzanilla

domvinos tom tartareRaf & Huevo de Toro tomato “tartare” with cilantro and payoyo cheese

dom vinos chicken ravioliravioli filled with free-range chicken, mozzarella and basil

dom vinos salmon pastramisalmon “pastrami”

dom vinos saladmixed greens, grilled asparagus, roast cherry toms, almonds & jamón

domvinos pulpotender pulpo (octopus) with bacon-potato purée and chili threads

26-08-2014 stewed beef cheek drizzled with truffle oil
(before and after mushing and drizzling)

dom vinos cheesespayoyo cheese with walnuts and jam

dom vinos sacristia (1)

dom vinos choc dulce leche
dom vinos candysdesserts by Candy

dom vinos petitfourspetit fours

dom vinos maria candypastry chef María García “Candy”

dom vinos antonio and sherryowner Antonio Fernández

dom vinos (8)

dom vinos (2)

dom vinos typical tasting all in a night’s work… a typical Dom Vinos tasting

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Updated August 2015

Bar Nerva

Updated October 2017

Bar Nerva was first recommended to me by my friend Victor @WeLoveMalaga back in 2012 – it’s a bit off the beaten path but definitely worth making the effort. Now more than 25 years old, this traditional family-run tapas bar and restaurant will immediately win you over not only with its fabulous home-style food, but also with the genuine warmth and enthusiasm of the staff. There are only a few tapas on the menu, so best to go with friends and share larger plates. Or try the menú del día, which is excellent value. Be sure to try the croquettes (which is not something I usually say) and the arroz de Ibéricos, which is chock full of jamón and various sausages. Though I think it’s safe to say that you really can’t go wrong here – I’ve never had a dish that wasn’t exceptionally delicious.

Cristo de la Epidemia, 55
Málaga
Tel 952 267 949
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

nerva bar

nerva wine listwine list

la carta

nerva starterscomplimentary starters

ensaladilla de gambas

nerva croquetascroquetas:  Málaga sausage (L) and puchero (R)

nerva gambas pilpil croquetesspicy gambas pil-pil croquetas

nerva serranitoserranito especial with bulltail, fried peppers and
jamón Ibérico on toasted beetroot-dyed roll

selection of montaditos

nerva frozen grapewhite wine kept cool with a frozen grape

nerva arroz de ibericosarroz de Ibéricos

fried hake

nerva clamsgarlicky clams in sherry sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

nerva pork cheektender-stewed carrillada Ibérica

nerva solomillo cabralessolomillo Ibérico in cabrales (blue cheese) sauce

nerva choc moussechocolate cheesecake mousse

father and son Joaquín & Agustín

nerva tio pepe

nerva tio pepe

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Updated October 2017

Taberna Uvedoble

Updated July 2018

Modern tapas are smartly served up by chef Willie Orellana at this minimalist taberna in the heart of Málaga, a stone’s throw from the Cathedral. Excellent food with a wine list that is also well thought out and very well priced, either by the glass or bottle. Friendly and informed staff offer good attentive service.

For me the most important thing is how well it all works together: fabulous food, friendly service, reasonable prices. If I lived in Málaga this would be a regular hangout – check out the tapas menu on their website and you’ll see what I mean. But it fills up fast, especially at weekends, so try to get there early. Must tries include the swordfish collar in Iberian pork fat (you know you want this!) the toasted squid ink fideo noodles with eensy Málaga calamares and alioli, and the super tasty mini prawn pil-pil kebab.  But it’s all good. Just go.

Cister 17
Málaga
Tel 951 248 478
Uve Doble Website
€ € € €

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Food 10 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

uvedoble bar
uvedoble wines

uvedoble new (3)

uvedoble olives winewine and local alora olives

uvedoble ajoblancoajoblanco with sardines and moscatel grape granita

uvedoble empanadillaempanadilla filled with boletus and gambas

grilled asparagus with romesco sauce

uvedoble spring rollscrispy prawn springrolls with soy sauce

uvedoble cevicheswordfish ceviche with Axarquía avocado

swordfish collar (morillo) in manteca colorada with tomato chutney

uvedoble salmon tatakisalmón tataky

tuna tataky with porra antequerana

uvedoble manitadeboned pork trotter with tart apple and pistachio

uvedoble pulpotender roasted pulpo with potato purée

uvedoble chistorrasgrilled chistorras with crispy potato straws

uvedoble prawn wrapmini kebab of gambas pil-pil with pimentón mayo

uvedoble flamenquin (1)flamenquín with presa Ibérica, cheese and padrón peppers

toasted fideos negros with calamaritos de Málaga and alioli

uvedoble lamblamb with couscous

suckling pig on a brioche bun

uvvedoble presagrilled presa Ibérica with padrón peppers

uvedoble willie noeliachef Willie and Noelia

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Updated July 2018

Tragatá

Updated April 2017


Chic sister-bar to Bardal (previously Tragabuches), Tragatá has also undergone a name change (from Traga Tapas), but the hip-fusion eclectic menu remains. The space is pleasantly minimalist, with a terrace out on the pedestrian street. Wasn’t able to get a shot of the new entrance as we had arrived early and the terrace still wasn’t set up.

Food leans to the gastrobar “new cuisine” style of mainly traditional ingredients (pig ears for example) given new forms of combination and presentation. We loved the marinated salmon and crispy filo-wrapped langoustines. Was tempted to try the tempura veg & prawns again but at 18.50€ a plate they seemed somewhat overpriced. The tapas are good value though. The service is friendly, albeit somewhat “relaxed”, and there’s quite a decent list of wines by the glass.

Nueva 4
Tel 952 877 209
Ronda, Málaga
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

marinated salmon with lime, vanilla, yoghurt, salmon roe sauce

huevos rotos with chistorras

fried squid sandwich with salsa brava

crispy filo-wrapped langoustines with mint and basil

vegetable tempura with langoustines, ginger soy sauce and wasabi

crispy fried pig ear with spicy sauce

pancetta bao with hoisin mayo

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Updated April 2017