leek, onion & potato soup

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When I was at the market the other day I saw some nice looking leeks and suddenly thought I’d like to try making potato and leek soup. To be honest, I don’t even know if I’d ever had potato and leek soup before, but on a wintry weekend it sounded like just the thing. So after going through a few online recipes I did my usual mashup and it turned out great, with a lovely smooth texture, total comfort food (and even better the next day). Some of the recipes I saw added cream after blending but I wanted to keep it “lighter” and it was quite filling as it was.

Ingredients and instructions below…
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mushroom stroganoff

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Way back in July 2021 while scrolling through Instagram I came across this video by Hotel Los Castaños in Ronda, showing them making a mushroom stroganoff. I immediately thought about my portobellos in the fridge that were probably close to the “use it or lose it” stage, so I decided that I was going to make mushroom stroganoff too. Then I also checked out a few recipes online as I never have cream (used in the video) and saw that sour cream is more usual in a stroganoff. I never have that either, but I have found that straining greek yoghurt for an hour or so using a melitta coffee filter makes a more than acceptable substitute. Los Castaños added chopped spinach to theirs at the end of the vid, which I thought was an excellent idea, though I found out later that fresh parsley is the usual addition. Having neither of those at the time, I tossed in a handful of arugula and it turned out great.

Since then I have made roughly a gazillion different versions of this but somehow have never got round to publishing any of them here (though many have ended up on my azahar Instagram hashtag #thestroganoffvariations. I’ve made it with different meat options (chicken, meatballs, sausage, bacon, beef) and vegetable combos (spinach, arugula, courgette, parsley, cilantro) with portobellos being the one constant ingredient, along with the onions and garlic.

I’ve also served it in various ways, on fat egg noodles, spaghetti, penne or fideos, with roasted or mashed potatoes, and even on crusty toasted bread. As you can tell, it’s quite a versatile dish if you’re not too concerned about making AN ACTUAL STROGANOFF 😉 (in which case it’s probably best to google “authentic beef stroganoff recipe”).

I think what’s happened is that MY stroganoff has turned out to be a bit like a risotto bianco, which you can use as a base and just add whatever the heck you want. Which, as is often my case, whatever happens to be hanging around in the fridge. So yeah, it’s not a classic or even remotely authentic, stroganoff recipe. But damn it’s always good. And so here is the basic mushroom version and hey, just have some tasty fun with it.

Ingredients and instructions below…
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endive with cream cheese and anchovy filling

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Here’s another recipe I found online – in this case an Instagram post by @poesiadefogon – that I first made according to the instructions (other than swapping pecans for marcona almonds) but since then I have made it several times with various changes. The first recipe (pic above served with garlic toast) is the original and the second “quick version” is shown below. Main difference is for the quick version I used garlic and onion powder (not garlic and onion salt – very important), added black pepper and some ground guidillas for heat, and served it on different toasts with different tinned fish toppings (mackerel or tuna) along with some sliced piquillo peppers. Really to turn it into more of a light meal than an aperitif snack. Also, I don’t usually have fresh chives and gherkins on hand.

But I mean, as a base, cream cheese with chopped toasted almonds lends itself to almost unlimited number of variations on a super tasty theme. Could even be a dip? I noticed in the video the cream cheese he used looked more liquid than actual cream cheese. Anyhow, try it out and let me know what you think.

Ingredients and instructions below…

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creamy cheesy spinach artichoke chicken stew

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I think this originated with me seeing an NYT recipe posted on Twitter sometime last year, but it has gone through so many permutations over the months that it bears little resemblance to the original recipe, and anyhow, I’ve lost the link. So here we have… a slow-cooked cream-cheesy chicken stew that, depending on how long you slow-cook it, can also end up as a spread or sauce. Up to you!

I just love the ingredients as most of them are “fridge forage” items, and it’s such a tasty and satisfying and versatile dish. So here we go. It’s not terribly photogenic but it works in many scenarios… I’ve had it over fat pasta noodles, over mash or with roasted potatoes, or even on toast.

Ingredients and instructions below…
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cola de toro

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I cannot believe I’ve never made colo de toro (oxtail) before but, as I couldn’t find any carrillada (pork cheeks) on New Year’s Eve, I decided to give it a go. It’s traditionally made with red wine but this time I opted to use oloroso sherry. It’s also traditionally made with carrots and other root veg, but I didn’t have any so I threw in some portobellos about half-way through cooking and I thought that worked out great. As with all braised meat dishes the idea is to take your time and go low and slow.

I think including prep time this took just over 5 hours, so clearly not a dish to make if you’re in a hurry. The good thing is once it’s simmering away on the top of the cooker you are free to do other things. And like many slow cooked meats, it is even better the next day. This recipe would easily serve four. For side dishes I made roasted potatoes, mini yorkshire puddings and an arugula salad.

Ingredients and instructions below…
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caesar revisited

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I started back making caesar salads again last summer and now I can’t seem to stop. And not to take away from my original Caesar dressing recipe (from 2009) I think this one is maybe a bit zingier. I’ve done a few variations including with crispy bacon or grilled chicken, but I think my favourite is just with these very crunchy light croutons made from pan cristal. For a vegetarian version just leave out the anchovies and worchestershire (which contains anchovies), and maybe add a splash of soy sauce for some salty umami instead? The dressing also makes a nice dipping sauce and is equally nice over roasted potatoes.

As it is made with raw egg yolks (which do get a bit “chemically cooked” by the lemon juice) best to use it up within a couple of days.

Ingredients and instructions below…

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pistachio pesto

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I don’t know how these things happen but I can start off a day feeling fairly normal and with a “to do” list of things of thing I want to take care of, and then remember that a few weeks ago someone mentioned pistachio pesto on Twitter and then I’m suddenly lost down a google pesto rabbit-hole. This is followed by an immediate desire – nay, OBSESSION – to make this dish NOW (last time this happened I think it was lamb faggots). Anyhow, after a quick trip to the supermarket to get some pistachios and basil I was in business.

It was also a chance to use my lovely marble mortar and get a bit of a work out at the same time. Previous times making normal pine nut pesto I’ve used a small blender and the result was fine, but I wanted to see if using this traditional method made a difference. And you know what? I think it’s a close call but in future I am going to use the mortar & pestle because the individual flavours were more apparent. I used my friend Anna’s pesto recipe as a base, and looked at a few other recipes online that used pistachios instead of pine nuts, and the result was pretty damn tasty.

Update! Was out of pistachios today and fancied some pesto, used toasted almonds instead and the result was fabulous. Toasted cashews also work! FYI.

Ingredients and instructions below…
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tomato sauce by marcella hazan

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Marcella Hazan’s classic 4-ingredient tomato sauce is apparently world renowned but I only came across it by chance on Twitter when a pal there mentioned he was going to try making it for the first time. So I did too! And yes, it is simplicity itself, and yes, it’s lovely and rich and so flavourful. The original recipe I found online called for whole tinned tomatoes, but for sauces I prefer using the chopped ones (so I did). And I started off with a teaspoon of salt, which was enough for me, but you can always add more later. It also says to cook the sauce for 45 minutes, but I think an hour gives you a bit more texture. In fact, I fell asleep while it was cooking (low and slow) and the onions ended up falling apart, making them difficult to fish out. I think I got maybe 3/4 of it out, but other friends told me they sometimes just blitz the onion in at the end. Really this is so easy it almost makes itself. Just don’t fall asleep!

Ingredients and instructions below…
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spinach hummus

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I was at a friend’s restaurant the other day and saw that they had spinach hummus on the menu and, although we didn’t try it that day, I decided to try it at home as soon as possible. So here it is. It’s actually just a riff on my basic hummus recipe with a bit more garlic and, of course, spinach. Also, after linking to that original recipe (posted in 2009), I am reminded that I really need to update those photos!

Ingredients and instructions below…

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mini chorizo toad in the hole

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The other day I saw a friend’s pic of toad in the hole on Instagram and I said, hang on that’s just yorkshire pudding with sausage in it. Duh. I don’t know what I thought it was before, I just knew it involved sausage and some sort of pastry. So then I wondered how this would work with the mini yorkshire puddings, with mini chorizos. Spoiler: omg they were good.

So obviously you can play around with different types of sausage. I liked how the mini chorizos ended up lightly flavouring both the onions and the dough with smoky pimentón. Bear in mind that these were raw chorizos, not cured, and are meant to be either pan-fried or cooked on a bbq. The puddings didn’t rise as much as when they are cooked without a filling, but they were still very light and crispy. Perfect snack food, or for a party. And the mini versions are easy to store in the fridge and reheat the next day.

Ingredients and instructions below…
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