NOOR

Posted on February 9, 2022 by Shawn

NOOR, which means “light” in Arabic, was opened in 2016 by Cordobés chef Paco Morales. His concept is all about tasting the history of al-Andalus (the moorish name for Andalucía) and for his first season he began in the 10th century, using ingredients that were available to the people of that time. With the help of documentarians, historians, archaeologists and designers, Paco has told the culinary story of the times with skill and imagination, which has earned him two well-deserved michelin stars. Each season he has moved up a century (with a retrospective in year 4) and so, for this visit, we found ourselves in the late 16th century. And for the first time at NOOR new world comestibles have been introduced into the menu.

I won’t say too much about what happens there because there are some lovely surprises, but the space is simply gorgeous, all light and open and elegantly minimalist. The tables all have a clear view of the open kitchen and the service is beautifully choreographed without being pretentious or stuffy. Maître/Sommelier Pilar Vargas keeps everything running smoothly and is charming and helpful, as are all the staff.

The food. I’m not going to go into detail here because it would take all day. So much detail, so much care, so much going on. And so just go have a look at the photos and, yes, they were all as delicious as they look. Not a wrong step, though I will say that a couple of personal favourites were the cured meat starter with pickled onion and albaqdunis, the almond curd with tuna, and the grilled sea bass. But honestly, I loved every bite.

The wines. In the end we did the wine pairing and omg it was fabulous. While there was an emphasis on Montilla Moriles (of course) Pilar also surprised us with some international choices and then a special 2014 Moscatel de Alejandria by Pérez Barquero made exclusively for NOOR and served from a gorgeous green damajuana.

There are three menus available. We chose the middle one “rihla” with the wine pairing option, but you could also order a bottle of wine and have Pilar “fill in” with a couple of special pours during the menu tasting.

At the end of our meal we huddled together with chef Paco for a group photo and asked him what he was planning for the upcoming season. He made a show of asking one of the team, Josef, to come over so he could translate Paco’s answer to our group into English… and then the answer was IT’S A SURPRISE. But seriously, if you can go, go.

Pablo Ruiz Picasso 8
Córdoba
Tel 957 96 40 55
€ € € € €

Food 10 | Wine 10 | Service 10 | Ambiance 10

Josef gives us a history lesson

ingredients from the new world

Starters

Habanero chilli bread, cured meats, pickled onion and albaqdunis
Achiote broth with hibiscus and anise
Fried pepper, sardine and its soft spine, with caviar
Peruvian layered potatoes, ibérico pork, prawns

Savoury

Beef tartare with fried polenta, pine nuts and saffron

Almond curd with 100% Venezuelan Araguani cocoa

“Anchovied” tomatoes with marinated mandarin, monkfish in brine and tamarind

Karim of pistachio, smoked herring caviar and green apple with black bread

Spinach jelly, avocado, yoghurt and tender pumpkin seeds
White prawn marinated in carob and cascabel chilli

Vegetable stew, creamy corn and black mole

Marinated shellfish in cucumber marinade, chickpea hummus, kefir snow and squid

Grilled sea bass with emulsion of peppers and toasted lemon
Roasted and rested squab, 70% cocoa and black recado

Sweet

Ceutan lemon with mint sponge cake, coriander snow and black pepper

Carob bean cake with its “bark”

Pilar Vidals – sommelier and maître d

Petit fours

Wine pairings

Xavier, me, Paco Morales, Ginny, Wade & Nina

Mantúa

Posted on July 8, 2019 by Shawn

Mantúa, owned and run by chef Israel Ramos, opened in 2017 and was the realisation of a long held dream. Ramos’s credentials are impressive, having previously worked at several Michelin star and other fine dining establishments throughout Spain. With the opening of Albalá in 2010 he was a pioneer in the upscale dining scene in Jerez. But it’s clear that Mantúa is where his heart belongs. Named after a grape that was planted in the “sherry triangle” region in the eighteenth century, Mantúa reflects Ramos’s philosphy of keeping things local.

I’ve been a fan of Albalá for years and so when I heard it had a posh sister restaurant I put it on my list, waiting for an occasion for a posh meal. Finally the stars aligned and I went for lunch with two local friends who have been to Mantúa several times.

Decór is minimalist chic, with pale cream walls and large windows, crisp white linen on the tables. There are just six tables and the room feels comfortable and welcoming. Elegant but not stuffy.

There are three set menus: Creta (€55), Arcilla (€65) and Caliza (€75), with 8, 12 and 16 dishes respectively. You can also opt for wine pairing (€30-€45 depending on the chosen menu) and put yourself in the very competent hands of front of house somm Jonathan Cantero.

We opted for the Arcilla menu and chose our own wines, with some help from Jonathan, but I think that next time I will just let him do the pairing.

The food. There is a little playfulness with the starters, but nothing too far from reality. I’m not usually a fan of molecular gastronomy, but dammit if that sphere of “marinated carrot” starter didn’t taste exactly like a homemade zanahoria aliñá in one bite, with all the full flavour of fresh carrot, olive oil and cumin. The razor clam with pil-pil and caviar was a delicious visit to the seaside, and the duxelle toast with pancetta and black truffle took us straight up to the mountains. The earthiness of that duxelle… could have eaten five more! We finished the starters with another molecular dish: a sea anemone fritter with manzanilla alioli. My main complaint about deep-fried sea anemone is when they are undercooked and too slimy, but somehow a totally liquid one was perfection.

Main dishes started off with plump fresh prawns with citric sorbet and a silky gazpacho poured over top. Then a medley of lightly sautéed baby veg from Navazo, served with chopped egg and a deep and delicious chicken escabeche. Puntillitas (tiny squid) came with a saffron sauce, egg and truffle, and eensy sausage meatballs. The fish of the day was sea bass with a pumpkin and pringá stew, which was followed by quail pil-pil with manteca colorá and aubergine. Tender deer in a spicy broth with basil yoghurt brought the savoury part of the menu to a close.

Desserts included goat ice milk with sherry vinegar and beet root sauce, Tonka bean with chocolate, arrope and a pretty selection of petit four.

Re: wines. We chose, with Jonathan’s guidance (I said I was looking for something light and fresh, and not too “challenging”), Pezas de Portela 2015 Godello, to accompany most of our meal. But Jonathan also slipped in a couple of fabulous regional wines and finished us off with a beautiful chardonnay champagne with dessert. This is why I say I will let him take care of ALL the wines next time. The Godello was gorgeous, but it is a bit of a shame not to take advantage of – and learn more about – what the region has to offer.

As you can see, everything was beautifully presented, and the service was impeccable. Can’t really recommend Mantúa enough. It has the feeling of a place with real heart, and flavours that attest to the chef’s love of his region. Unpretentious and about as perfect as a meal can get.

Plaza Aladro 7
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 856 65 27 39
€ € € € €

Food 10 | Wine 10 | Service 10 | Ambiance 10

Zanahoria aliñá (marinated carrot)

Razor clam with marine pil-pil and caviar
Toast with duxelle, pancetta and truffle

Sea anemone fritter with manzanilla alioli

Marinated prawn, gazpacho, citric sorbet

Navazo vegetables, egg and chicken escabeche

Tiny squid in saffron sauce with egg, black truffle and eensy sausage meatballs

Sea bass with pumpkin and pringá stew

Quail pil-pil with manteca colorá and aubergine

Deer in spicy broth with basil yoghurt

Goat ice milk, sherry vinegar and beet root sauce

Tonka bean, chocolate, arrope

Petit four

Jonathan Cantero and owner/chef Israel Ramos (with friends)

El Faro – El Puerto de Santa María

Posted on April 29, 2019 by Shawn

photo courtesy of El Faro website

The El Faro group (which actually consists of 4 restaurants and a catering company), used to be best known (by me) for the El Faro restaurant in Cádiz, where I’ve stopped for tapas a few times, but there is also an El Faro fine dining restaurant and tapas bar in El Puerto de Santa María which I’ve been wanting to try for ages, and recently I had the opportunity to visit twice.

Restaurante El Faro in El Puerto has been run by chef Fernando Córdoba and his wife Ana Isabel Puerto for over 30 years now. It’s located just outside the old city, not far from the bullring, in an old manor house surrounded by gardens, including the restaurant’s own kitchen herb and seasonal vegetable garden,, and the general appearance and atmosphere is “modern in a traditional style”. There are several dining areas of various sizes, some for private functions, but our interest was in the substantial area in front of the huge wooden bar, which is where tapas are available.

The cuisine itself is generally typical of the region, with lots of fresh fish and seafood, with seasonal variations, especially for fresh vegetables, and the quality is excellent. Very hard to pick a favourite, though on our first visit Chef Fernando let us order the taquitos de urta frito, served in the body of the fish itself, which is usually only available in the dining room. Fabulous presentation and flavour, but I honestly can’t think of a dish we’ve tried here that wasn’t exceptional. Tempura baby leeks from their garden? Almadraba red tuna tartare? Their exquisite tortillitas de camarones? I think it’s safe to say you can’t go wrong here.

We were also fortunate enough to have Fernando show us around the restaurant’s substantial bodega (150 sq metres, with over 400 wines), and talk to us about the joys – and a few pitfalls – of the restaurant business. His genuine enthusiasm and love of food and wine shows itself in every aspect of the experience. I love that he is passionate about sherry wines, and also about working with the abundance of local products that he has available. Fernando is a modest chef, preferring to be behind the scenes, but his food deserves centre stage. El Faro is a “must do” if you are ever lucky enough to be in El Puerto de Santa María.

Avenida de Fuentebravía Km 0.5
El Puerto de Santa María
Tel 956 870 952
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

tortillita de camarones

zamburiñas with lemon and capers

ruby red almadraba tuna tartare

tempura leeks from their own garden

grilled almadraba tuna with vegetables, quinoa and citrus sauce

Bodeguita El Adobo

Posted on April 28, 2019 by Shawn

This was a delightful “new discovery” during my last visit to Cádiz, thanks to a recommendation by Twitter pal Antonio Colsa @elquillodecadiz. We stopped in on our last evening and already I can’t wait to go back. This is exactly the type of no-nonsense tapas bar I love. Run by Paco Abeijón “Paquito el Adobo”, who took over the spot in 2014 (originally founded in 1987 when it was converted from an abacería to a bar), the menu features market fresh fish and seafood done to perfection, either simply grilled or expertly deep-fried.

The bar is tiny, but there is a sidewalk terrace on the pedestrianised street. We squeezed in at the end of the bar and started with one of the house specialities – boquerones abiertos al limón. They were indeed some of the best I’ve ever tried. The only small “draw-back” is that most dishes are raciones (or media raciones) and so we were already pretty stuffed on fritos when Paquito came out and said we HAD to try the moreno, a local fish, prepared en adobo. We were also told that leaving without trying the tomatoes with melva was almost unheard of, but unfortunately we were given this vital information too late, when we could not eat one more bite. But this will be my first stop next time I am in Cádiz, and those tomatoes will be the first thing I order. Lovely personal and friendly service and some nice local wines too.

Rosario 4
Cádiz
Tel 636 814 675
€ € €

Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

tortillita de camarones

squid ink croquetas

moreno en adobo

boquerones al limón

acedias (small sole)

owner Paquito with daughter Carmen and Alejandro

Taberna de Jam

Posted on August 17, 2018 by Shawn

The Taberna de Jam, completely renovated earlier this year, occupies a very pleasant spot in a square at the foot of the Realejo. Spacious inside, with a bar area on one side, a substantial dining area on the other, forming a U-shape, and a pleasant terrace in the Plaza. Specializing in grilled meats, there is also a selection of Arturo Sánchez jamón Ibérico in a range of qualities. For about 26€ you can do a tasting of them all.

Although the waiter was friendly and enthusiastic, overall the food and service (considering it wasn’t busy) was only average. Also open for breakfast, when I’m sure a toast and jamón with coffee in the square would make a nice start to the day.

Plaza de los Campos 1
Granada
Tel 958 225 778
€ € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

chicken with quinoa (complimenary)

big square croqueta filled with goronzola and parmesan

mini pork burgers (complimentary)

stewed pork belly (complimentary)

Los Diamantes II

Posted on August 17, 2018 by Shawn

There are now five Los Diamantes in Granada, although only three are in the city centre where you’re likely to find them. This one is probably the most similar to the original in Calle Navas – a fun buzzy place that’s always busy, both the bar area in front, and the dining room at the back. Same emphasis on fried fish and seafood, all of it of good quality, and efficient friendly service. Great value too.

Rosario 12
Granada
Tel 619 787 828
€ € €

Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

Foreño

Posted on August 12, 2018 by Shawn

Foreño opened its doors in Sanlúcar’s Plaza del Cabildo about a year ago, and when I was in town for Manzanilla Day, I took the opportunity to pay a visit. It’s the latest addition to the Tribeca group (Tribeca and Cañabota in Sevilla) run by the brothers Eduardo and Jaime Guardiola, and specialises in fish and seafood (the name Foreño is the local name for the wind that blows in from the sea).

There’s a pleasant bar inside, with both low and tall tables, and what I think is the prettiest terrace in Plaza del Cablildo. Efficient and attentive service too.

The menu is mainly big plates, but with some tapas. We had croquettes (choco and jamón), a scorpion fish paté, sea bream, and “postre de yema Calbarro”, the signature egg yolk cream dessert at Tribeca. All delicious.

Plaza del Cabildo 6
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Tel 956 960 185
€ € € €

Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

cabracho (scorpion fish) paté

croquetas: chocos and jamón

a side of garlicky potatoes

sea bream a la plancha

postre de yema Calbarro

pretty terraza!

Casa Bigote

Posted on August 11, 2018 by Shawn

Pórtico Bajo de Guía 10
Tel 956 36 26 96
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

gambas de sanlúcar

we love gambas

tuna in manteca

chocos fritos

A Mar

Posted on August 11, 2018 by Shawn

Restaurante A Mar was opened in 2017 by chef Julián Olivares (also owner of Albores), and specialises in traditional fish, rice and meat dishes, with a limited tapas menu. It’s quite spacious, with the typical division into a bar area, a dining room, and a small terrace on the pedestrian street outside. The decor includes a preserved section of the old wall, and features “hanging gardens”, and display cases for market fresh fish and big slabs of meat destined for the grill (apologies for absence of interior photos). The dishes were tried were quite good, though our monkfish carpaccio came still partially frozen (we were told it was supposed to be that way). The grilled octopus and fried squid were better. There’s a wide range of local wines, especially sherries.

Latorre 8
Tel 956 322 915
€ € € €

Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

ensaladilla de gambas

monkfish carpaccio

calamares fritos

grilled octopus with potato parmentier

La Moderna

Posted on August 10, 2018 by Shawn

La Moderna is more than just a bar, it’s a Jerez institution. Though the name is a bit of a misnomer as it’s a very typical, traditional style bar, full of bullfighting posters, and simple furnishings. It was founded some 80 years ago by the grandfather of current owners Atilano, Alfonso and Fernando Pacheco, and apparently little has changed in the intervening years, from the colour of the facade, to the bar and the old city wall, which is still extant in the interior of the bar.

Open from early in the morning for breakfast (a must try – the tostada con tomate, in this case a garlicky salmorejo-style topping) the bar attracts a varied local clientele, one of the things I love most about such places. A typical tapas menu of stews and fritos from around midday, make it a great refuelling stop.