Taberna de Jam

The Taberna de Jam, completely renovated earlier this year, occupies a very pleasant spot in a square at the foot of the Realejo. Spacious inside, with a bar area on one side, a substantial dining area on the other, forming a U-shape, and a pleasant terrace in the Plaza. Specializing in grilled meats, there is also a selection of Arturo Sánchez jamón Ibérico in a range of qualities. For about 26€ you can do a tasting of them all.

Although the waiter was friendly and enthusiastic, overall the food and service (considering it wasn’t busy) was only average. Also open for breakfast, when I’m sure a toast and jamón with coffee in the square would make a nice start to the day.

Plaza de los Campos 1
Granada
Tel 958 225 778
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

chicken with quinoa (complimenary)

big square croqueta filled with goronzola and parmesan

mini pork burgers (complimentary)

stewed pork belly (complimentary)

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Los Diamantes II

There are now five Los Diamantes in Granada, although only three are in the city centre where you’re likely to find them. This one is probably the most similar to the original in Calle Navas – a fun buzzy place that’s always busy, both the bar area in front, and the dining room at the back. Same emphasis on fried fish and seafood, all of it of good quality, and efficient friendly service. Great value too.

Rosario 12
Granada
Tel 619 787 828
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

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Saint Germain

Updated August 2018

Just off the Gran Vía near the Cathedral, Saint Germain is the kind of place I might have walked right by (and probably have done on previous visits to Granada) if not for the guidance of long-time resident, composer-musician and bon vivant John @benzo8. Noteworthy for its original tapas and extensive selection of wines, Saint Germain is also the only Proust-themed bar I have ever been to. There are photos, framed texts and other memorabilia pertaining to the famed French novelist on practically every surface that isn’t occupied by wine. Which is everywhere else. Wine bottles on the bar, in buckets, inside cabinets, on wall shelves, even caged inside a “chicken coop”.

It’s a cosy dimly-lit place with two small bar sections inside and a little sidewalk terrace. We mostly stuck with the complimentary tapas, though on one occasion ordered a house speciality, their own herbed beef saladilla, which is outstanding. Owner Juanjo is a whiz with sauces and his tapas are as interesting and innovative as they are delicious. Just go and leave yourself in the staff’s very capable hands when it comes to food and wine recommendations – you won’t be disappointed. Clearly popular with the locals, it fills up fast so try to get there early if you can. Fabulous wines, delicious tapas, wonderful ambiance – and excellent value for money.

Postigo Velutti 4
Granada
Tel 958 20 00 37
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

saint germain (7)

saint germain (8)wine cabinet

saint germain chilled wineswine on the bar

saint germain salmorejocomplimentary garlicky salmorejo

potato salad and tripe with garbanzos (complimentary)

saint germain patecomplimentary housemade chunky paté

saint germain fishy piggycomplimenary delicious spicy fishy stuff on toast… and a piggy cracker

saint germain tapa 1complimentary mystery tapa 1

saint germain tapa 2complimentary mystery tapa 2

crusty hot toasted saladilla filled with herbed beef, manchego, jamón

saint germain winesrecommendations from our barman

saint germain tomTom!

saint germain wines (2)wine on the wall

saint germain caged wineswine in chicken-coop style cages

saint germain (6)

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Updated August 2018

Los Diamantes

Updated August 2018
los diamantes

Los Diamantes is one of Granada’s best known and popular bars, and rightly so. It’s one of those ultra-typical fried fish and seafood bars with a very basic style, but the quality of the food is excellent, and the atmosphere is buzzy and friendly. It’s also one of the places I like best in Granada for the “free” tapa. If you go with 3-4 friends you probably won’t need to order much beyond the complimentary dishes, which are very generous.

This original Los Diamantes in Calle Navas is still my favourite (there are now five locations, including a very similar one just up the street in Calle Rosario). But it can get very crowded, so best to arrive early if you want a seat or a prime place at the bar, otherwise you’ll probably end up in the street outside trying to hold your beer in one hand and eat with the other. Try balancing your plate on top of your glass to recreate the original meaning of the word tapas!

Navas 26
Granada
Tel 958 222 257
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

los diamantes tables

los diamantes coquinasgarlicky coquinas (small wedge clams)

los diamantes breadhot buns!

los diamantes arrozseafood rice

boquerones

los diamantes salmoretesfried salmonetes (small red mullet)

los diamantes gambasbreaded prawns

los diamantes champigarlicky grilled mushrooms

los diamantes adobocazón in adobo

los diamantes mixtofritos variados

los diamantes bar

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Updated August 2018

Mercado de San Agustín

san-agustin[photo by Alfredo Aguilar]

The Mercado de San Agustin is Granada’s principal central food market near the Cathedral. Like a lot of such markets, it has suffered (sadly) a decline in its core business, but has recently begun to re-invent itself. The original 1970s market building (before that San Agustín was an outdoor street market) has been given a major facelift, and a new gourmet section with a number of bars – run by San Agustín Gourmet – have been added to the traditional food stalls.

Unlike many similar places that have opened around Spain, calling themselves markets when they are actually gourmet food courts, San Agustín still functions as a provisions market. In some cases you can purchase fresh items from a stall and have them prepared at one of the new bars, which we did, ordering 300 grams of secreto Ibérico from Conchita the butcher (3€) and for another 3€ Tendido Gourmet grilled it and brought it to our table. But speaking of “tables” this is probably the main negative about the new set up, as there aren’t many places to sit. We were there early on a Wednesday afternoon and had no trouble finding a tall table – handily just outside the Vinoteca – but one of us had to stay there to guard our spot while another went out in search of food. I imagine it would get a bit frustrating trying to do this when the place is packed and the bars and food stalls are all busy. If you just want fried fish and seafood, Bajo de Guía has its own small bar area, though it’s standing room only. For the rest, it’s all take-away and then take your chance finding somewhere to eat either inside the market or outside on the terrace. But overall, a pleasant space to either shop or stop for a beer and a snack.

Plaza San Agustín
Granada
Tel 958 278 279
Mercado San Agustín Website
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

san agustin (2) san agustin (1)cones of camarones

san agustin (4) san agustin (3)takeaway paella

san agustin (6) san agustin (7)pinchos

san agustin (8) san agustin (9) san agustin (13)puntillitas (baby squid)
san agustin (14)tortillita de camarones

san agustin (15)croquetas de puchero

san agustin (16)grilled secreto Ibérico

san agustin tendidocooking our secreto at Tendido

san agustin (11) san agustin (10)carabineros

san agustin (12)

san agustin (17)conchas finas

san agustin (5)

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Cunini

cunini

One of Granada’s best known fish and seafood bars (actually a bar in front, and a restaurant in the back, with a terrace outside), Cunini is appropriately located behind the cathedral and Plaza Bib Rambla in the old fish market square. It’s been an institution in Granada as long as anyone can remember, and the bar area in particularly is almost always packed and noisy.

We stopped in late after a bit of a tapeo around town and sampled a couple of the complimentary tapas (lukewarm soggy hake and some “okay” croquetas) so when we ordered a final round of drinks I asked the waiter if we could have something a bit nicer. We were promptly brought a big dish of ensaladilla rusa which was promptly taken away again when I said I couldn’t eat mayonnaise (lies, lies…). But then we were pleasantly surprised by the arrival of some fresh tasty prawns from nearby Motril. So, while we weren’t impressed overall, I think Cunini deserves another visit to try out some of the dishes from the menu.

Plaza Pescadería, 14
Tel 958 267 587
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

cunini bar areabar area

cunini fritoscomplimentary fried hake

cunini croquetascomplimentary seafood croquetas

cunini gambas complimentary gambas from Motril

cunini gambahola!

cunini seafood displayfish and seafood display

cunini barthe bar

cunini diningdining area

cunini sign

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Bar Aliatar Los Caracoles

aliatar

Something of a “hit and run” review – really more of a bookmark – as we only stopped here for a cold beer (here being about three quarters of the way up the Albaicín on a hot summer day, which is why we needed the refreshment) on the way to a bar a bit higher up which had been recommended to us by friends. The bar where we were heading, which will remain nameless (oh alright, it was Casa Torcuato) proved a huge disappointment and not worth the extra effort of getting there. In fact we found ourselves wishing we’d stayed at Aliatar, with its outdoor terrace in a pretty square, and exceptionally friendly service. The complimentary sardines that came with our ice cold beer were delicious. I will certainly be back again to try their house speciality, the caracoles (snails). I also hear the octopus is excellent.

Plaza Aliatar 4
Granada
Tel 650 877 353
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine  | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

aliatar beer
aliatar sardines

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Alameda

Updated August 2018

The Alameda is located just off Plaza del Carmen. The space is very contemporary split-level, with a bar downstairs and a dining area upstairs, with lots of wood and high ceilings and windows that makes it feel both spacious and comfortable. There’s also a small terrace.

Although we’ve been there a few times, we’ve only actually ordered food once (their fabulous oxtail burger with au-juice mayo). The rest of the photos here are their complimenary tapas that come with drinks, which I have to say are probably the best I’ve had in Granada. All-day kitchen from 12.00 pm – 1.00 am.

Escudo del Carmen corner of Rector Morato
Granada
Tel 958 221 507
Alameda Website
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

alameda (2)

jamón serrano

alameda patecomplimentary blue cheese paté

squid ink croquetas (complimentary)

alameda croquetascomplimentary jamón croquetas

grilled pork belly (complimentary)

alameda tortillascomplimentary mini tortillas

complimentary menudo (tripe stew)

alameda burger bulloxtail burger with havarti cheese and au jus mayo

Alfonso cutting jamón

alameda (3)

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Updated August 2018

Boabdil

boabdil

Boabdil is a little family run tapas bar just off calle Elvira, at the bottom of the Albaicín near the Plaza Nueva, and probably not the kind of place you’d find on your own unless you’ve acquired the knack of judging where the locals go. There’s a cosy bar area as you walk in and larger dining room at the back. Traditional homecooking-style tapas, friendly service from Marie and Carolina, and good value for money.

Hospital de Peregrinos, 2
Granada
Tel 958 228 136
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 6 | Ambiance 6

boabdil barthe bar

boabdil cold tapascold tapas

boabdil tapascomplimentary tapitas: stewed chicken on toast and pisto

boabdil diningdining area

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La Tana

Updated August 2018

I have to say that La Tana is my favourite wine bar in Granada, compact and cosy and festooned with traditional knick-knacks – shelves full of bottles of wine, with a couple of massive jeroboams on the bar, and lots of garlic, tomatoes, sausages hanging on the walls and from the ceiling.

As you’d expect, they have an excellent wine selection, including a local white wine I loved called Mencal (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, moscatel), and staff are very helpful with recommending wines. The complimentary tapas are delicious, though the lovely subdued lighting means that most of my food pics never turn out here (they tend to be a smaller version of what’s available on the menu – see below). It’s always super busy, so best to get there early.

Rosario, 11
Granada
Tel 958 225 248
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

la tana (3)

la tana (4)

la tana avocado butifarraavocado on toast, butifarra

tomatoes with olive oil, sausage

la tana mencalMencal from Granada

carne mechada with sundried tomatoes

la tana menuthe menu

la tana (1)

la tana window
la tana (2)

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Updated August 2018