Tag Archives: andalucia

Restaurante Arrieros

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Updated February 2017

Linares de la Sierra, population 300, is about 90 minutes from Sevilla, deep in the Sierra de Aracena Natural Park, in the province of Huelva. It is an unlikely spot to find a michelin-star quality restaurant like Arrieros, run by partners Luismi López (chef) and Adela Órtiz (front of house). They offer seasonal menus based on local products, which happily includes lots of acorn-fed Ibérico pork from the nearby dehesa.

Restaurante Arrieros couldn’t be any more rustic and charming. The lovingly restored old building used to be the village bar, and it now comprises a series of small dining rooms and a small terrace. The Jabugo Menu is all about the pig and it really is a delight. It varies a bit from season to season, but you will usually find the pork liver marinated in fresh cilantro and olive oil, and the fabulous presa (pork shoulder) burger. There’s a nice selection of regional wines too.

There are really no set hours. Luismi and Adela will open when they get requests, so be sure to call ahead. And give yourself time to explore the village either before or after your meal.

Calle de los Arrieros, 2
Linares de la Sierra
Tel. 959 46 37 17
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

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arrieros cilantro liverpork liver marinated with cilantro and spring onions

arrieros presa carpacchiopresa Ibérico carpaccio with foie shavings

melted goat cheese on toast, local honey and herbs

arrieros boletus, scrambled eggs, garlic oil, cilantroboletus mushrooms, scrambled eggs, garlic oil, cilantro

arrieros omato soup with cumin, mint, oregano, fig jamtomato soup with cumin, mint, oregano, fig jam

presa burger with peach jam

carrillada Ibérica

arrieros (13)cheesecake

arrieros (8)

arrieros luismi adelaLuismi López & Adela Ortiz

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Updated February 2017

Tabanco El Pasaje

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el pasaje

Tabancos are a combination of tavern and wine shop that is typical of Jerez de la Frontera. Wines (sherries) are sold either by the bottle (to take away or consume on the premises), or direct from small casks. Tapas are also sold, and there is a close association between tabancos and the culture of flamenco.

El Pasaje is probably the oldest still existing tabanco in Jerez, dating officially to its founding by Don José González Navarro in 1925, though prior to that it had been first a food shop and then a peña (flamenco club) for local waiters. It’s name (the passage) derives from the fact that it has two entrances in parallel streets. Under the current management a small side room that had been blocked off has been reopened.

There are regular flamenco events (times vary depending on time of year), and often impromptu performances, with a great atmosphere. The wines (sherry) are by Maestro Sierra, and there’s a very nice range of cheese and meat tapas, montaditos, and a few hot dishes. Bar service only.

Santa María, 8
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 333 359
€ €

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Food 7 | Wine 9 | Service 7 | Ambiance 9

el pasaje barrels

el pasaje quesocheese and beer

el pasaje mojamaamontillado with mojama (cured tuna)

el pasaje front roomthe front room

el pasaje variadastapas variadas

el pasaje sherry flightsherry flight

el pasaje chicharrones cadizchicharrones de Cádiz

el pasaje lomolomo in PX sauce

el pasaje chicharronesoloroso and chicharrones

el pasaje impromptuimpromptu afternoon performance

el pasaje back roomthe back room with stage

el pasaje showscheduled evening show

spontaneous Sevillanos

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Óleo

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oleo
Óleo is the popular sushi and tapas fusion restaurant attached to the Contemporary Arts Centre in Málaga. The décor is light, open and modern, and includes “bench” seating for some of the tables, as well as an outside terrace. The tapas menu (also available as media raciones) is modest, but includes a good mix of traditional and more innovative dishes, and there are also salads, and meat and fish dishes in larger plates, as well as a range of sushi options, all of excellent quality. Our favourite dish was the jurel ceviche served with lime – a spectacular bite. Service was efficient and friendly, and it’s well worth stopping here as part of your visit to CAC.

Alemania s/n
Contemporary Arts Centre
Málaga
Tel 952 219 062
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 9 | Service 9 | Ambiance 8

oleo (2)

oleo bravaspatatas bravas with spicy foam

oleo cevichejurel ceviche with lime

oleo prawn rollscrispy soy-marinated prawn rolls

oleo tempura makitempura tuna maki

oleo kebabgoat pinchito with ras el hanout and onion chutney

oleo viet rollsbaby goat Vietnamese roll

oleo (1)

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Albalá

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Updated February 2018


A stylish modern restaurant with a small tapas bar area and covered terrace, located just down the road from the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art. Chef Israel Ramos has created a pleasant menu of contemporary tapas and raciones, accompanied by a very good wine list. Some favourites include the asparagus in tempura, tuna tartare with guacamole, and the secreto meatballs. Reservations recommended.

Conjunto Residencial Valdespino 6 /corner Divina Pastora
Jerez de la Frontera
Tel 956 34 64 88
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 8

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albala tortillitatortilla de camarones

albala croquetascroquetas de rabo de toro (oxtail)

albala asparagusasparagus in tempura with soy mayo

albala tacocochinita taco with chilli threads

tuna tartare with guacamole and tomato in lime

albala chili prawnschili prawns

albala albondigassecreto Ibérico meatballs with baby broadbeans and baby octopus

albala pulpo papadaconfit pork jowl with grilled octopus and artichokes

wild boar tenderloin

presa Ibérica with curried hummus

apple tart

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Updated February 2018

La Yedra

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yedra

Just a stone’s throw from the elegant Parador Hotel in Carmona, La Yedra (the ivy) is certainly very pretty, with a shady outside patio, a small bar area, and an inside dining room. This latter was very pleasingly decorated in light tones, with a sloping wood-beamed roof, terracotta flooring and a window to the outside patio.

When we there it was deserted except for a couple of locals at the bar, and a little lacking in atmosphere, but this was a hot late July lunchtime; when we came past later in the cool of the evening the patio was quite full, and much more lively. Service was a little reserved and impersonal to start with, but warmed up with a little prompting. The food was good, but not quite the high quality I would have expected for the price (an exception was the little fried calamares on black toast – exquisite!).

General Friere 8
Tel 954 144 525
€ € € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service7 | Ambiance 9

yedra (9)

yedra calamarisquid ink toast, saffron alioli, crispy little calamari

yedra prawn veg tempuratempura veggies and prawns with soy-sesame sauce

yedra solomillopork tenderloin with grilled padrón peppers, fried potatoes, mojo picón

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KGB

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Updated August 2015

kgb

KGB is just off Calle Larios, in the same spot where michelin super-star chef Dani García first started off the gourmet tapas scene in Málaga with La Moraga, and later Manzanilla. Up until recently run by Cordobés michelin-star chef Kisko García, KGB continues to offer fusion gourmet tapas with an every-changing selection of internationally-influenced dishes. New management will continue to spy-out new influences.

The menu hasn’t changed much, just a few tweaks here and there. Missing is the bulltail burger, served with a killer “au jus” mayonnaise, but it can still be found across the street at Wendy Gamba (also run by the KGB group). Favourites here include the innovative takes on patatas bravas and flamenquín, and the glazed pork rib taco.

The decor is modern, with clean lines and plenty of light from the big windows, contrasting nicely with views of the old traditional street outside. It’s busy and buzzy, so be sure to get there early to grab a spot at the bar.

Fresca 12
Málaga
Tel. 952 226 851
€€€€

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 7 | Ambiance 7

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kgb botaniBotani

kgb (9)“gastrobar estado puro” inspired patatas bravas

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kgb mackerelblow-torched mackerel with soy, lime and herbs

kgb prawnsking prawns in bric pastry with mint

IMG_1071croquetas de puchero

IMG_1051Ibérico stuffed chipirón (squid)

kgb (10)pork cheek burger with mayo and gorgonzola cheese

kgb cochinillocochinillo onna bun with curry sauce and rocket

IMG_9088 IMG_9078Iberian “pizza”

flamenquinflamenquín

kgb ribsglazed ribs with cabbage and avocado cream

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Updated August 2015

Saint Germain

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Updated August 2018

Just off the Gran Vía near the Cathedral, Saint Germain is the kind of place I might have walked right by (and probably have done on previous visits to Granada) if not for the guidance of long-time resident, composer-musician and bon vivant John @benzo8. Noteworthy for its original tapas and extensive selection of wines, Saint Germain is also the only Proust-themed bar I have ever been to. There are photos, framed texts and other memorabilia pertaining to the famed French novelist on practically every surface that isn’t occupied by wine. Which is everywhere else. Wine bottles on the bar, in buckets, inside cabinets, on wall shelves, even caged inside a “chicken coop”.

It’s a cosy dimly-lit place with two small bar sections inside and a little sidewalk terrace. We mostly stuck with the complimentary tapas, though on one occasion ordered a house speciality, their own herbed beef saladilla, which is outstanding. Owner Juanjo is a whiz with sauces and his tapas are as interesting and innovative as they are delicious. Just go and leave yourself in the staff’s very capable hands when it comes to food and wine recommendations – you won’t be disappointed. Clearly popular with the locals, it fills up fast so try to get there early if you can. Fabulous wines, delicious tapas, wonderful ambiance – and excellent value for money.

Postigo Velutti 4
Granada
Tel 958 20 00 37
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 9 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

saint germain (7)

saint germain (8)wine cabinet

saint germain chilled wineswine on the bar

saint germain salmorejocomplimentary garlicky salmorejo

potato salad and tripe with garbanzos (complimentary)

saint germain patecomplimentary housemade chunky paté

saint germain fishy piggycomplimenary delicious spicy fishy stuff on toast… and a piggy cracker

saint germain tapa 1complimentary mystery tapa 1

saint germain tapa 2complimentary mystery tapa 2

crusty hot toasted saladilla filled with herbed beef, manchego, jamón

saint germain winesrecommendations from our barman

saint germain tomTom!

saint germain wines (2)wine on the wall

saint germain caged wineswine in chicken-coop style cages

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Updated August 2018

Los Diamantes

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Updated August 2018
los diamantes

Los Diamantes is one of Granada’s best known and popular bars, and rightly so. It’s one of those ultra-typical fried fish and seafood bars with a very basic style, but the quality of the food is excellent, and the atmosphere is buzzy and friendly. It’s also one of the places I like best in Granada for the “free” tapa. If you go with 3-4 friends you probably won’t need to order much beyond the complimentary dishes, which are very generous.

This original Los Diamantes in Calle Navas is still my favourite (there are now five locations, including a very similar one just up the street in Calle Rosario). But it can get very crowded, so best to arrive early if you want a seat or a prime place at the bar, otherwise you’ll probably end up in the street outside trying to hold your beer in one hand and eat with the other. Try balancing your plate on top of your glass to recreate the original meaning of the word tapas!

Navas 26
Granada
Tel 958 222 257
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 6 | Service 7 | Ambiance 6

los diamantes tables

los diamantes coquinasgarlicky coquinas (small wedge clams)

los diamantes breadhot buns!

los diamantes arrozseafood rice

boquerones

los diamantes salmoretesfried salmonetes (small red mullet)

los diamantes gambasbreaded prawns

los diamantes champigarlicky grilled mushrooms

los diamantes adobocazón in adobo

los diamantes mixtofritos variados

los diamantes bar

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Updated August 2018

Mercado de San Agustín

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san-agustin[photo by Alfredo Aguilar]

The Mercado de San Agustin is Granada’s principal central food market near the Cathedral. Like a lot of such markets, it has suffered (sadly) a decline in its core business, but has recently begun to re-invent itself. The original 1970s market building (before that San Agustín was an outdoor street market) has been given a major facelift, and a new gourmet section with a number of bars – run by San Agustín Gourmet – have been added to the traditional food stalls.

Unlike many similar places that have opened around Spain, calling themselves markets when they are actually gourmet food courts, San Agustín still functions as a provisions market. In some cases you can purchase fresh items from a stall and have them prepared at one of the new bars, which we did, ordering 300 grams of secreto Ibérico from Conchita the butcher (3€) and for another 3€ Tendido Gourmet grilled it and brought it to our table. But speaking of “tables” this is probably the main negative about the new set up, as there aren’t many places to sit. We were there early on a Wednesday afternoon and had no trouble finding a tall table – handily just outside the Vinoteca – but one of us had to stay there to guard our spot while another went out in search of food. I imagine it would get a bit frustrating trying to do this when the place is packed and the bars and food stalls are all busy. If you just want fried fish and seafood, Bajo de Guía has its own small bar area, though it’s standing room only. For the rest, it’s all take-away and then take your chance finding somewhere to eat either inside the market or outside on the terrace. But overall, a pleasant space to either shop or stop for a beer and a snack.

Plaza San Agustín
Granada
Tel 958 278 279
Mercado San Agustín Website
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

san agustin (2) san agustin (1)cones of camarones

san agustin (4) san agustin (3)takeaway paella

san agustin (6) san agustin (7)pinchos

san agustin (8) san agustin (9) san agustin (13)puntillitas (baby squid)
san agustin (14)tortillita de camarones

san agustin (15)croquetas de puchero

san agustin (16)grilled secreto Ibérico

san agustin tendidocooking our secreto at Tendido

san agustin (11) san agustin (10)carabineros

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san agustin (17)conchas finas

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Cunini

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cunini

One of Granada’s best known fish and seafood bars (actually a bar in front, and a restaurant in the back, with a terrace outside), Cunini is appropriately located behind the cathedral and Plaza Bib Rambla in the old fish market square. It’s been an institution in Granada as long as anyone can remember, and the bar area in particularly is almost always packed and noisy.

We stopped in late after a bit of a tapeo around town and sampled a couple of the complimentary tapas (lukewarm soggy hake and some “okay” croquetas) so when we ordered a final round of drinks I asked the waiter if we could have something a bit nicer. We were promptly brought a big dish of ensaladilla rusa which was promptly taken away again when I said I couldn’t eat mayonnaise (lies, lies…). But then we were pleasantly surprised by the arrival of some fresh tasty prawns from nearby Motril. So, while we weren’t impressed overall, I think Cunini deserves another visit to try out some of the dishes from the menu.

Plaza Pescadería, 14
Tel 958 267 587
€ € € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

cunini bar areabar area

cunini fritoscomplimentary fried hake

cunini croquetascomplimentary seafood croquetas

cunini gambas complimentary gambas from Motril

cunini gambahola!

cunini seafood displayfish and seafood display

cunini barthe bar

cunini diningdining area

cunini sign

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