Bar Nerva

Updated October 2017

Bar Nerva was first recommended to me by my friend Victor @WeLoveMalaga back in 2012 – it’s a bit off the beaten path but definitely worth making the effort. Now more than 25 years old, this traditional family-run tapas bar and restaurant will immediately win you over not only with its fabulous home-style food, but also with the genuine warmth and enthusiasm of the staff. There are only a few tapas on the menu, so best to go with friends and share larger plates. Or try the menú del día, which is excellent value. Be sure to try the croquettes (which is not something I usually say) and the arroz de Ibéricos, which is chock full of jamón and various sausages. Though I think it’s safe to say that you really can’t go wrong here – I’ve never had a dish that wasn’t exceptionally delicious.

Cristo de la Epidemia, 55
Málaga
Tel 952 267 949
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

nerva bar

nerva wine listwine list

la carta

nerva starterscomplimentary starters

ensaladilla de gambas

nerva croquetascroquetas:  Málaga sausage (L) and puchero (R)

nerva gambas pilpil croquetesspicy gambas pil-pil croquetas

nerva serranitoserranito especial with bulltail, fried peppers and
jamón Ibérico on toasted beetroot-dyed roll

selection of montaditos

nerva frozen grapewhite wine kept cool with a frozen grape

nerva arroz de ibericosarroz de Ibéricos

fried hake

nerva clamsgarlicky clams in sherry sauce

grilled presa Ibérica

nerva pork cheektender-stewed carrillada Ibérica

nerva solomillo cabralessolomillo Ibérico in cabrales (blue cheese) sauce

nerva choc moussechocolate cheesecake mousse

father and son Joaquín & Agustín

nerva tio pepe

nerva tio pepe

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Updated October 2017

Almocábar Bar & Restaurante

I’m afraid that the other photos I took of Restaurante Almocábar have gone missing – this is one I salvaged from my iPhone. But it’s probably enough to make you want to go there, right? We were on a lunchtime “tapeo” as I wanted to try as many places as possible during our 24-hour visit, and the Almocábar was stop number one that afternoon. It’s a very traditional place with both a dining area and tapas bar inside. Outside in the square there is a lovely terrace set up under the trees with a view of the Almocábar gates, which is where we ate this wonderful grilled swordfish with perfectly grilled vegetables.

Friends had told me this was one of the best places to eat in Ronda and one look at the menu made me wish we were stopping there for a full meal. The service was pleasant but (ahem) a bit relaxed. Nice wine list. And nothing came served on slate or lathered up into a liquid nitrogen froth. Just well-executed, good quality food. I’ll be back.

Ruedo Alameda 5
Ronda
Tel 952 875 977
Closed Tuesdays
€ € € €

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Granada Senzone

senzone terraza

Tucked away inside the gardens of the Palacio de los Patos hotel, Senzone is a fabulous oasis in the centre of the city, with various fountains cooling the patio area where you can either sit at tables to eat a meal or curl up on sofas to enjoy a drink. Large trees and hanging wisteria provide natural shade and all the greenery running along the wrought iron fence shuts out traffic and city noise. My favourite was the gnarly pomegranate tree, which I was told was over 200 years old. If you don’t know, the pomegranate (or “granada” in Spanish) is the emblem of the city.

The Senzone Restaurant offers tapas as well as a full-service menu, and an intriguing tasting menu made of Riofrio caviar products.

Solarillo de Gracia, 1
Tel. 958 53 57 90
Senzone Website
€ € € €

senzone salmorejo salmorejo cordobés with chopped egg and jamón

senzone croquetacreamy bulltail croquettes

senzone mozarabepastela mozárabe: lamb & cinnamon in sweet pastry

senzone alpujarreño

designer alpujarreño: soft-cooked egg, jamón, chorizo, potato foam

senzone pomegranate200-year-old pomegranate tree

senzone wisteria

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El Caleño

el caleno playa

Another fabulous seafood restaurant in the old fishing quarter of Málaga, Pedregalejos. Right on the beach you get wonderful food with a view. Best to call ahead and book a table.

Paseo Maritimo (El Pedregal)
Malaga
tel. 952 299 148
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

el caleno conchas finasconchas finas

 el caleno bolosbolos

 el caleno salada “small” house salad

el caleno salmoretessalmonetes

el caleno puntillitaspuntillitas (baby squid)

el caleno pimientosroasted red pepper salad

el caleno coquinascoquinas (cockles)

el caleno gambasgambas a la plancha

el caleno espetosardines “espeto”

el caleno boqueronesfried boquerones (anchovies)

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La Cosmopolita

Updated August 2015

cosmopolitaOpened in October 2010 and run by chef Daniel Carnero, La Cosmopolita is just off the calle Granada in the centre of Málaga. The decor is fresh and fun, with a twist on traditional. As are the tapas, which have become more inventive each year (though there are fewer tapas these days, and they are only available at the bar and selected outdoor tables). The food is very good – past favourites include the bulltail meatballs and the “pan de cristal” options (long chapata-style bread scooped out and filled with meat or cheese and then toasted). I also really like the croquetas (not something I say often) and the bacalao fritters.

Another innovation is the seasonal specials menu, usually a new one each month, and this is really worth checking out. The grilled bone marrow with prawn tartare and artichokes with pork jowl we tried were especially stunning. Also ask for recommendations from the terrific wine list.

José Denis Belgrano 3
Málaga
tel. 952 215 827
Open: 8.30 – midnight
(kitchen open 13.00 – 16.30 /  20.00 – midnight)
La Cosmopolita Website
€ € € €

Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8
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cosmopolita dani

chef and owner Dani Carnero

cosmopolita bulltail albondigabulltail meatball in gravy

cosmopolita pucherocroquetas de puchero

cosmopolita buñelos de bacalaobuñuelos de bacalao (little cod fritters)

cosmopolita ostrasGuillardeau oyster

cosmopolita ventrescalightly grilled tuna belly (ventresca)

cosmopolita pared

cosmopolita bone marrowbaked bone marrow with prawn tartare

cosmopolita patataspatatas a la importancia with king crab

cosmopolita chistorragrilled chistorra with potato purée

cosmopolita ravioli aubergine with mojo rojoravioli filled with smoked aubergine,
topped with red mojo picon

cosmopolita calamarcalamares en pepitoria

cosmopolita pringa roll quail eggpringá in a warm bread roll, topped with quail egg

cosmopolita pan de cristalgrilled beef with pesto on “pan de cristal”

cosmopolita pringa winter truffle pringá with winter truffle

cosmopolita lagartitalagartijo Ibérico with fresh herbs and sriracha sauce

cosmopolita jamon

cosmopolita dining areadining area

cosmopolita terrazathe terraza

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Updated August 2015

El Refectorium Malagueta

Updated July 2018


This is a fabulous neighbourhood bar just behind the bullring and a stone’s throw from Malagueta beach. Always busy and bustling, always serving excellent food. The tapas menu is small but, as with the longer restaurant menu, it’s all high quality stuff, and the service is top-notch, fast and friendly.

Sister bar to chic El Refectorium Catedral this original location has its own special charm. Make sure to try the gambas pil pil, the grilled chistorras and the rice of the day. Aside from the bar area and dining room inside there is a spacious sidewalk terrace.

Cervantes, 8
Tel. 952 21 89 90
12.30 – 16.30 / 20.30 – 23.30
Closed Sunday and Monday lunchtime
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

boquerones al vinagre

caña de lomo

arroz del día

prawn & jamón brochette

grilled chistorras

flamenquín

gambas pil pil

stewed oxtail

beef “albondigón” with spicy almond sauce

biznaga seller

Belén, Horacio, Curry, Julio, Belén, Alberto & Sergio

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Updated July 2018

Andrés Maricuchi

Updated August 2018

Superb seafood, great wines, a fabulous sea view and friendly efficient service. Could you ask for anything more? I’ve been going to Andrés Maricuchi in the old fishing village of Pedregalejo since 2008, and it never disappoints. These days it always feels like going home, being greeted by Andrés with a big kiss on the cheek. And the food is always outstanding.

Favourites include the perfectly fried boquerones al limón and, in season, the espeto de sardinas (BBQ’d onna stick). Garlicky urta and whole BBQ’d squid are also fabulous, and the tomato and garlic salad is a must have. Nice wines by the glass or bottle – the Mar de Frades albariño goes especially well with the fish and seafood.

Be sure to call ahead and book a table as the terrace fills up fast.

Paseo Maritimo (El Pedregal) 14
Málaga
Tel. 952 290 412
€ € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 9

IMG_4232conchas finas

zamburiñas pil-pil

“espetos” (bbq’d sardines)

maricuchi sardines on the bbqsardines on the BBQ

maricuchi tortillitastortillitas de camarones (prawn fritters)

maricuchi whelkswhelks

maricuchi coquinasgarlicky coquinas

crispy fried rosada with alioli

maricuchi puntillitas calamarifried puntillitas and calamari

  tomato & garlic salad

maricuchi urta garlicky grilled urta

maricuchi tunagrilled tuna

maricuchi squid on bbqsquid on the BBQ

maricuchi squidwhole BBQ’d squid

maricuchi langostines cigaleslangostines & cigales

maricuchi boqueronesfried whole boquerones (anchovies)

filleted boquerones al limón

maricuchi julian and andres FOH Julian Susanu & owner Andrés Maricuchi (photo 2014)

maricuchi andres davidAndrés & son David serving salt-baked fish

Team Maricuchi 2017: Andrés with Manuel, Jesús & Julián

maricuchi andresAndrés and biznagas

maricuchi napkinsnapkins drying on the rooftop

the barbeque boat

Updated August 2018