Mercado de San Agustín

san-agustin[photo by Alfredo Aguilar]

The Mercado de San Agustin is Granada’s principal central food market near the Cathedral. Like a lot of such markets, it has suffered (sadly) a decline in its core business, but has recently begun to re-invent itself. The original 1970s market building (before that San Agustín was an outdoor street market) has been given a major facelift, and a new gourmet section with a number of bars – run by San Agustín Gourmet – have been added to the traditional food stalls.

Unlike many similar places that have opened around Spain, calling themselves markets when they are actually gourmet food courts, San Agustín still functions as a provisions market. In some cases you can purchase fresh items from a stall and have them prepared at one of the new bars, which we did, ordering 300 grams of secreto Ibérico from Conchita the butcher (3€) and for another 3€ Tendido Gourmet grilled it and brought it to our table. But speaking of “tables” this is probably the main negative about the new set up, as there aren’t many places to sit. We were there early on a Wednesday afternoon and had no trouble finding a tall table – handily just outside the Vinoteca – but one of us had to stay there to guard our spot while another went out in search of food. I imagine it would get a bit frustrating trying to do this when the place is packed and the bars and food stalls are all busy. If you just want fried fish and seafood, Bajo de Guía has its own small bar area, though it’s standing room only. For the rest, it’s all take-away and then take your chance finding somewhere to eat either inside the market or outside on the terrace. But overall, a pleasant space to either shop or stop for a beer and a snack.

Plaza San Agustín
Granada
Tel 958 278 279
Mercado San Agustín Website
€ € € €

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Food 7 | Wine 8 | Service 6 | Ambiance 7

san agustin (2) san agustin (1)cones of camarones

san agustin (4) san agustin (3)takeaway paella

san agustin (6) san agustin (7)pinchos

san agustin (8) san agustin (9) san agustin (13)puntillitas (baby squid)
san agustin (14)tortillita de camarones

san agustin (15)croquetas de puchero

san agustin (16)grilled secreto Ibérico

san agustin tendidocooking our secreto at Tendido

san agustin (11) san agustin (10)carabineros

san agustin (12)

san agustin (17)conchas finas

san agustin (5)

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Cunini

cunini

One of Granada’s best known fish and seafood bars (actually a bar in front, and a restaurant in the back, with a terrace outside), Cunini is appropriately located behind the cathedral and Plaza Bib Rambla in the old fish market square. It’s been an institution in Granada as long as anyone can remember, and the bar area in particularly is almost always packed and noisy.

We stopped in late after a bit of a tapeo around town and sampled a couple of the complimentary tapas (lukewarm soggy hake and some “okay” croquetas) so when we ordered a final round of drinks I asked the waiter if we could have something a bit nicer. We were promptly brought a big dish of ensaladilla rusa which was promptly taken away again when I said I couldn’t eat mayonnaise (lies, lies…). But then we were pleasantly surprised by the arrival of some fresh tasty prawns from nearby Motril. So, while we weren’t impressed overall, I think Cunini deserves another visit to try out some of the dishes from the menu.

Plaza Pescadería, 14
Tel 958 267 587
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 6 | Service 5 | Ambiance 7

cunini bar areabar area

cunini fritoscomplimentary fried hake

cunini croquetascomplimentary seafood croquetas

cunini gambas complimentary gambas from Motril

cunini gambahola!

cunini seafood displayfish and seafood display

cunini barthe bar

cunini diningdining area

cunini sign

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Bar Aliatar Los Caracoles

aliatar

Something of a “hit and run” review – really more of a bookmark – as we only stopped here for a cold beer (here being about three quarters of the way up the Albaicín on a hot summer day, which is why we needed the refreshment) on the way to a bar a bit higher up which had been recommended to us by friends. The bar where we were heading, which will remain nameless (oh alright, it was Casa Torcuato) proved a huge disappointment and not worth the extra effort of getting there. In fact we found ourselves wishing we’d stayed at Aliatar, with its outdoor terrace in a pretty square, and exceptionally friendly service. The complimentary sardines that came with our ice cold beer were delicious. I will certainly be back again to try their house speciality, the caracoles (snails). I also hear the octopus is excellent.

Plaza Aliatar 4
Granada
Tel 650 877 353
€ € €

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Food 7 | Wine  | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

aliatar beer
aliatar sardines

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Alameda

Updated August 2018

The Alameda is located just off Plaza del Carmen. The space is very contemporary split-level, with a bar downstairs and a dining area upstairs, with lots of wood and high ceilings and windows that makes it feel both spacious and comfortable. There’s also a small terrace.

Although we’ve been there a few times, we’ve only actually ordered food once (their fabulous oxtail burger with au-juice mayo). The rest of the photos here are their complimenary tapas that come with drinks, which I have to say are probably the best I’ve had in Granada. All-day kitchen from 12.00 pm – 1.00 am.

Escudo del Carmen corner of Rector Morato
Granada
Tel 958 221 507
Alameda Website
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

alameda (2)

jamón serrano

alameda patecomplimentary blue cheese paté

squid ink croquetas (complimentary)

alameda croquetascomplimentary jamón croquetas

grilled pork belly (complimentary)

alameda tortillascomplimentary mini tortillas

complimentary menudo (tripe stew)

alameda burger bulloxtail burger with havarti cheese and au jus mayo

Alfonso cutting jamón

alameda (3)

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Updated August 2018

La Tana

Updated August 2018

I have to say that La Tana is my favourite wine bar in Granada, compact and cosy and festooned with traditional knick-knacks – shelves full of bottles of wine, with a couple of massive jeroboams on the bar, and lots of garlic, tomatoes, sausages hanging on the walls and from the ceiling.

As you’d expect, they have an excellent wine selection, including a local white wine I loved called Mencal (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, moscatel), and staff are very helpful with recommending wines. The complimentary tapas are delicious, though the lovely subdued lighting means that most of my food pics never turn out here (they tend to be a smaller version of what’s available on the menu – see below). It’s always super busy, so best to get there early.

Rosario, 11
Granada
Tel 958 225 248
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

la tana (3)

la tana (4)

la tana avocado butifarraavocado on toast, butifarra

tomatoes with olive oil, sausage

la tana mencalMencal from Granada

carne mechada with sundried tomatoes

la tana menuthe menu

la tana (1)

la tana window
la tana (2)

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Updated August 2018

Taberna Gamboa

Updated August 2018

After having come here for years, on every stay in Granada, this time was a bit of a disappointment. I’d heard that Taberna Gamboa had changed hands since my last visit, but we were determined to have the hot sizzling gambas pil-pil….

The bar looks the same – it’s quite small and cosy, with a buzzy atmosphere that’s both typical and traditional. It can be a bit of a struggle to get a place at the bar or tables, especially at peak times, also typical of popular bars in Granada. Anyhow, the food. Our gambas pil-pil arrived “unsizzly” in a dish of tepid olive oil, served by a waiter who seemed to be wishing she were somewhere else. We were then joined by friends and tried a couple of the complimentary tapas (meh), and when we decided to have another round of drinks we weren’t brought the usual complimentary tapa. Finally we mentioned this to the waiter, who begrudgingly brought us a plate of cheese. I hope this was just an off day, as I used to really love this place. But friends in Granada say it hasn’t been the same since the change in management. Oh well.

Lepanto 11
Granada
Tel 958 229 237
€ € €

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Food 5 | Wine 7 | Service 5 | Ambiance 6

gamboa (2)the bar

gamboa menuchalkboard menu

gamboa tortillacomplimentary tortilla (4 people)

gamboa serranocomplimentary serrano (4 people)

complimentary rice (2 people)

gamboa flamenquinflamenquín de la casa

stewed pork (complimentary)

gamboa habascomplimentary beans with jamón (2 people)

spicy gambas pilpil

complimentary cheese (4 people)

gamboa (5)

gamboa (4)

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Updated August 2018

Macsura

macsura

Despite the unfortunate decision to call itself a gastrotaberna (shudder), and the equally unfortunate bread charge, Macsura proved to be a worthwhile stopping place. The name derives from an architectural feature of the Mezquita – it’s the place next to the mihrab, the holiest place in the Mosque, and would be occupied by the Caliph during the services – and the inner part of the dining area is a large alcove set behind a pair of arches in a conceptual imitation of the original. We sat in the bar area, which is light and open with high ceilings.

As this was a second stop of the afternoon, and there are no tapas on the menu, we only tried a couple of dishes: one of the daily specials, pan-fried seasonal wild mushrooms (níscalos) served with raw egg yolks, and crispy fried chocos with a wonderful olive oil mayo. Both were terrific and the wine was good too, but 1.20€ for one tiny bread roll? I was told by the waiter that I should have refused it when he brought it to the table. I suggest you do the same.

Cardenal Gonzalez, 43
Córdoba
Tel 957 486 004
€ € €

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Food 9 | Wine 10 | Service 9 | Ambiance 9

macsura (3)

macsura niscalospan-fried níscalos with raw egg yolk

macsura chocosbreaded chocos with olive oil mayo

macsura (4)

macsura (2)

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Bar Santos

Updated February 2017
bar santos

It’s easy to dismiss Bar Santos as just another of the many touristy bars around the Mezquita, but one look at the impressive display of massive tortillas just inside the door will tell you that you are in for something special. In spite of its location it still manages the look and feel of a little neighbourhood bar with just one table inside and standing room only at the bar.

Their trademark dish, a 30-egg tortilla de patatas, is served by the slice for 2€ and goes great with either a cold beer or a bowl of salmorejo. A typical sight at midday is people sitting along the cathedral wall with plates of tortilla. Makes a great start to a tapeo.

Magistral Gonzalez Francés, 3
Córdoba
Tel 957 48 89 75
€ € €

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Food 8 | Wine 7 | Service 8 | Ambiance 8

bar santos bar

bar santos corner

bar santos tortillas (1)30 eggs & 5 kilos of potatoes in each one

bar santos tortilla slice

bar santos tortilla beerslice of tortilla with beer

bar santos salmorejosalmorejo topped with chopped egg and jamón

bar santos menuthe menu

bar santos photos

bar santos tortillas (2)

bar santos founded 1966

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Updated February 2017

El Tres

el tres

El Tres is the newest venture of the Gorki Group, which has several differently-themed restaurants and bars in Málaga. El Tres is their “classic haute cuisine” spot and local chef Rosa Serrano has created a menu that blends Spanish, Basque and French influences.

The restaurant in smack in the centre of Málaga and is tastefully decorated with a small terrace outside. Aside from the regular menu there are a couple of tasting menus available, which seem to be good value for money. As I was with four serious foodie friends we opted to order several media raciones from the a la carte menu and share them (tapas style!). It was a fun way to try what appealed to us rather than sticking to a set tasting menu. My favourites were the smoked eel terrine, octopus & rabbit smoked rice, and crispy skin cochinillo.

Service was terrific and we enjoyed a few wines from the very well thought out list. It was an altogether lovely experience sharing great food with dear friends. Only downer was getting our bill and finding a 2.50€ PER PERSON “service charge”…  12.50€ for the five of us. What? When will restaurants get that they should factor in these fixed costs (napkins, table cloths… toilet paper?) and not tackily tack them on after the end of an already pricey meal. It leaves a bad taste in the mouth.

Strachan 7
Málaga
Tel 952 223 364
€ € € € €

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Food 9 | Wine 8 | Service 8 | Ambiance 7

el tres dining (2)
el tres (6)amuse-bouche (can’t remember what it was…)

el tres porra antequeraporra Antequera with jamón & chopped egg

el tres smoked eel terrinesmoked eel terrine with Williams pear compote

el tres parienteJosé Pariente verdejo

el tres veg menestrecrispy cooked mixed veg with a velouté of creamy jamón

el tres hakeline-caught hake in salsa verde with clams and confit potatoes

el tres monkfishmonkfish wrapped in cured pork cheek with crab cream and artichokes

el tres pulpo rabbit arrozoctopus & rabbit smoked rice

el tres cochonillocochinillo with crispy skin and apple confit

el tres steak tartareGalician beef tartare prepared at our table, served with crispy veg & chips

el tres squabsquab with carrot purée and toasts topped with its livers

el tres wines
el tres dining (1)
el tres gorki

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La Barra

la barra
La Barra belongs to the ever-growing Gorki chain of restaurants and is their “market kitchen” bar. It’s in a great location in central Málaga and has a nice terrace on pedestrianised calle Bolsa, as well as seating inside at the bar. There are also a couple of tables at the back which is apparently a dining area. I found this out on my third visit after sitting at a bar table near the front door and almost getting knocked out by a constantly spritzing “air freshener” (not noticable in the area directly in front of the bar). I was moved to a table at the back of the room – really right next to the bar tables – and was charged 1.80€ “table service” for the privilege. So basically, don’t sit there.

If you stop in for a quick tapita at the bar you can enjoy a nice assortment of tasty tapas, prettily presented. Service is professional and efficient, wines are good.

Bolsa 8
Tel 952 22 39 54
€ € €

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Food 6 | Wine 7 | Service 6 | Ambiance 5

la barra bar

la barra pincho pulpooctopus, olive and hot pepper gilda

la barra butter fish with seaweedbutter fish with pickled seaweed

la barra presa mostazagrilled presa Ibérica with grainy mustard sauce

la barra (4)octopus mayo salad

la barra pork potatoesgrilled pork with potatoes and padrón potatoes

la barra window

la barra tables

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